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08-23-2011, 09:34 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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30 AMP plug install at home?
Has anyone installed a 30 or 50 amp outlet at your house. I'd like to install a 30 amp so I can run the A/C in the TT while packing it for a trip. I have a 200 AMP fuse box for the house. How do I know if I can add another 30 AMP breaker? I thought I could add up the breakers already installed, but there is now way that is correct. If it is, I'm way over the limit now . Any electricians (or knowledgeable person) that can tell me how to figure this out?
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08-23-2011, 09:50 AM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,508
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First question is do you have room for a double 30?
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08-23-2011, 10:14 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 151
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I have mine adapted down to the standard household plug (like 95% of people do)......and I can run my AC off of it with no trouble. It would be better to run off of a 30A plug like you are inquiring about.....but I don't want to spend that mind of money for something I'll use a couple times per year. If I had the knowledge to do it myself it would be a different story....
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2006 Cherokee Wolfpack 295WP - 2 Interstate U2200 6v, 1500w inverter, clear lens LED clearance and tails, Starlight Revolution 300 lumen LEDs EVERYWHERE!
2012 Dodge 2500 - deleted and tuned by H&S performance
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08-23-2011, 10:25 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Dowagiac, MI
Posts: 14
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You only need a single 30 they arent 240volt one breaker spot square d breaker 9 bucks special three prong plug and box 10 box you will want to make sure the orientation of the plug so your cord is hanging down and you need 10 gauge wire from breaker to the plug to carry the 30 amps everything can be purchased at a local Lowes other than if you have a diffrent brand box.
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08-23-2011, 10:33 AM
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#5
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camping
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 988
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interested in doing this also. this is a link I was given.
The 30-amp 120-volt 2 pole 3 wir
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08-23-2011, 10:40 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jamestown NY
Posts: 588
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X2 like bocephus, I just plug into a standard 110v 20A plug with and adapter. It'll run the AC ok and I keep the frig on/plugged up all summer. We never enpty the frige.
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08-23-2011, 10:49 AM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,380
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I just did this in the barn where I store my trailer. You need room in your electrical distribution box for a double-wide breaker. You should really use 10 gauge wire as well. We sometimes stay in our trailer at "the farm" and it is nice to have full 30 amp service. Remember it is 120 volt and a special 30 amp RV plug. The 30 amp 240 volt plug is DIFFERENT and you DON'T want it. It's not hard to do so an electrician shouldn't cost that much. (My son is an electrician so my cost was only parts! Nice son!) If there is not room in your distribution box, then you are looking at some big money.
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08-23-2011, 11:44 AM
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#8
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,508
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The a/c pulls 16 amps to start and 13 running. So yes a 20 amp adapter will work.
just don't run microwave, hot water heater, or anything else..
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08-23-2011, 02:03 PM
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#9
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AKA Bluebird
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFugate
I have a 200 AMP fuse box for the house. How do I know if I can add another 30 AMP breaker? I thought I could add up the breakers already installed, but there is now way that is correct. If it is, I'm way over the limit now . Any electricians (or knowledgeable person) that can tell me how to figure this out?
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I'm not an electrician but I'll take a stab at giving you a simple answer.
Think of it this way, in terms of water lines. Your house has a constant supply of 200 incoming gallons of water (amps). You have X number of separate water lines in your house (electrical circuits) , each of which has numerous faucets on the line (appliances, lights, stove, etc). Each line can pass Y number of gallons to it's faucets, but no more. (number of amps listed on breaker).
Now, If you open too many faucets on a given line (exceed the capacity of the line by plugging in and turning on too many things), the automatic safety switch (circuit breaker) for that line opens and turns off the water . But say you only open 2/3 of the faucets on each of the lines and so no safety switches are enabled. However, if the total water draw from the combined lines exceeds 200 gallons, the safety switch for the main incoming line operates and the water flow to your house is cut off.
It is actually much more complicated than the simple way I have tried to explain it, so don't think you have the whole picture, 'cause you don't. However, let me try to answer your question to some degree.
You must, firstly, remember that all of the faucets on all of the water lines in your house are not open at the same time and, because of that, it would be unusual to run out of water.
So, yes, another circuit can be installed for your camper. As long as your trailer consumes less than 30 amps at a given time, and as long as the total number of amps being consumed by everything connected to your breaker box does not exceed 200 amps.
Hope this helps some and don't try do DIY.
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2006 4x4 Ford 250 SD / 2007 Flagstaff 827 FLS
One very patient wife and one furry child who travels with us. Forty-two years of trailering and camping, and I still have a blast.
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08-23-2011, 03:26 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 92
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Just to add what to the great post by dimurrrw. It is actually 200 amps per phase. And as a Journeyman electrician, I can't agree enough with dimurrrw and hire a licensed electrician for this. If you are unsure on how to do it, it is not safe for a diy. There is so much that can go wrong especially when dealing with your main circuit panel.
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Stephen Georgy
2011 Lacrosse 318BHS
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08-23-2011, 03:49 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lake Charles, La.
Posts: 1,536
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i'm getting ready to run a 50amp. bought the box w/reciptical for $29 at home depot. may want to check and see if they have the 30 amp version.
u may have additional slots. the cover has break away tabs that exposes the area breakers go in. they will have a slot number beside them.
if u don't have enough slots, u can buy half size breakers to free up some slots.
after the weather cools, i'm going get the underground lines marked then run it. i have an outside box already there with a breaker in it. shouldn't b a problem.
if ur not sure of what ur doing, get help. there is a lot of energy available in one of those utility boxes.
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08-23-2011, 03:50 PM
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#12
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,508
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I agree to all that was said . but if you are only going to run your air conditioner the 20 amp adapter would be fine. unless you wanted to run any other 110v items such as water heater, fridge,microwave etc etc .
imho i wouldn't waste the money if your ONLY running the air as I stated before it only draws 16 amps to start and 13 to run .
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08-23-2011, 03:51 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Wow, lots of answers and great advice in a short amount of time , so thanks to everyone for that. I do have plenty of room in my box, my primary concern was the 200 AMP box. I do have experience (DIY) installing breakers and running wires, I just didn't know if I could exceed the rating of the box. Thanks for all the answers, I did learn some things
Bocephus, lindy and f1100turbo, I was always told that running your A/C through a non 30 AMP circuit was a no-no. Has the thinking on this changed No need to run a 30A if I can run it on a 20A
Great link tentcamper1
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08-23-2011, 03:54 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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OOPS, f1100turbo you answered while I was typing. Thanks!
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08-23-2011, 04:01 PM
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#15
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,508
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i have personally done it this way for years on three different campers with out a problem.
and why would it be a problem if your only using 13 amps from a 20 amp circuit .
here is your amp chart ..
One other thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to start the appliance than they do to run the appliance. A roof air conditioner can draw 16 amps to start, but may only use 13 amps once it is running.
120 Volt AC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-8 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps
12 Volt DC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Accessory Estimated Amps
Aisle Light 1 Amp
CO Detector 1 Amp
Fluorescent Light 1-2 Amps
Furnace 10-12 Amps
LP Gas Leak Detector 1 Amp
Overhead lights (Per Bulb) 1 Amp
Porch Light 1 Amp
Power Roof Vent 1.5 Amps
Radio/Stereo 4 Amps
Range Hood (Fan & Light) 2-3 Amps
Refrigerator (LP Gas Mode) 1.5- 2 Amps
Security System 1 Amp
Television (12 volt) 4-5 Amps
TV Antenna Booster <1 Amp
TV Antenna Booster 12 Volt outlet Up to 8 Amps
Variable Speed Ceiling / Vent Fan 4 Amps
VCR Recorder / Player 2 Amps
Water Pump 4 Amp
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08-23-2011, 04:26 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lake Charles, La.
Posts: 1,536
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200 amp is standard home service. that shouldn't be any concern, it will handle it.
the only reason i'm going to run service to my trailer is to get the extension cord off the ground. haven't decided yet what size wire to run 10 or 8. same logic as F1100turbo, enough to get by if i have to. i like the heavier contacts of the larger service. will fuse according to wire size.
i have gotten by on a 12awg extension cord and 20 amps for years. i can check each electrical item, just can't run more than one large item at a time.
sense i'm going to bury a cable, will run 220 most likely #8.
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08-23-2011, 05:17 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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That's good to know guys. I just checked my box and I have no breakers less than a 20A so I'm good. I went out and fired up the A/C in it and it ran great. Shouldn't have to worry about adding a 30A unless the wife kicks me out and makes me live in it Thanks again to everyone for the help.
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08-23-2011, 05:36 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 74
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Is the 13-16 amp draw for a 13.5 or 15k BTU A/C unit? I ran my A/C once with no problems on a 20 amp breaker with adapter. I just don't want to risk damage to the unit. I would only use the A/C on rare occasion.
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James and Karen
Warner Robins, GA
2011 Lacrosse 301RLS
2007 Tundra CM 5.7
Reese Dual Cam
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08-23-2011, 05:40 PM
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#19
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjarrard
Is the 13-16 amp draw for a 13.5 or 15k BTU A/C unit? I ran my A/C once with no problems on a 20 amp breaker with adapter. I just don't want to risk damage to the unit. I would only use the A/C on rare occasion.
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I run my Coleman 15K, Converter, Fridge, Tv and computer without ever tripping the home run 20 amp circuit breaker that feeds that outlet. The camper is the only thing plugged into that breaker. I would NOT try to fire up the microwave though!
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2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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08-23-2011, 06:10 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 74
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Now the question is, how many amps does the 12 cubic foot fridge and converter draw? The trailer is cooling inside now. I am going to install the Dish network receiver. I am getting ready for our planned Labor Day trip next week! Thanks for the input!
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James and Karen
Warner Robins, GA
2011 Lacrosse 301RLS
2007 Tundra CM 5.7
Reese Dual Cam
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