30A Power Inlet Burned Contact

[D W]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If enough people plug in their autotransformers in a "low voltage campground" there's a good chance the campground can turn into a NO VOLTAGE campground.

You can't get higher voltage and same wattage output without sucking more current on the input. Translated, more load on an already strained system.

Just saying.

YES! This is the bottom line. Doesn't matter what device you have down the line. The source of all the power is the main transformer. Put enough strain on it and it's going to blow!, ... and like TitanMike stated you will have a NO VOLTAGE campground.

[D W]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Thanks to Cavie's Ohms law catch, I fixed the entire post so there would be no confusion (all generated by me).

I also posted 1200 watt heater performance at 120 volts (1200 Watts), 110 volts (1008 Watts), and 100 volts (833 Watts).

I also switched the Ohms Law formula I used to P=V squared divided by R (fixed resistance) in the example.

Thanks again for keeping us straight!
Herk

A simple chart:

[ysidive]

Originally Posted by Nailz

Since you have to replace both the plug & receptacle you may consider this.

https://smartplug.com/rv-market-rv-s...-power-outlet/

I have no affiliation with this company nor do I own this product. I will consider this connector should I have to replace my twist lock 50 amp on my RV.

Happy camping,
C

I replaced my standard twist lock connection with this plug and it is the best choice I have made.. You can connect in the dark without wondering if it is correct or locked. No twisting, no wondering if it is locked... Check the website smartplug.com and you will be convinced... Check prices on Many of the Boating supply places and you can get some good prices... Not cheap, but economical compared to burning up your wiring on camper...

[Chuck_S]

I've never seen anyone use an Autoformer (but me) so the chance of killing a complete campground based on "everyone" using this one device seems pretty slim. Trailers and motorhomes with multiple AC units running their water heaters on 120vAC seems much more likely.

-- Chuck

[pete100]

The issue is that a 30A connector is only rated at 24A constant load.

I find this hard to believe. Is there a spec sheet somewhere that specifies this limitation? If it is true there should be warning signs all over the trailer.

[Teamfour]

Originally Posted by pete100

The issue is that a 30A connector is only rated at 24A constant load.

I find this hard to believe. Is there a spec sheet somewhere that specifies this limitation? If it is true there should be warning signs all over the trailer.

I stand corrected. The NEC 80% rule applies to circuit breakers, not the plug rating.

[Chuck_S]

Thanks for the clarification.

Breaker recommendation is 80% of rating and the 30a breaker on the post that's been outdoors in all weather conditions may pop before demand exceeds the rating.

-- Chuck

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Thanks for the clarification.

Breaker recommendation is 80% of rating and the 30a breaker on the post that's been outdoors in all weather conditions may pop before demand exceeds the rating.

-- Chuck

OR -may not pop at all!

[Hclarkx]

If you don't monitor voltage, do be cognizant of the time required to spin-up your A/C condenser. With a bit of practice you can differentiate between the blower and the compressor when inside. If you stand outside you will hear primarily the compressor. Note the normal spin-up time and commit it to memory. If the start-up takes noticeably longer than that, say 2 or more seconds when normal is 1 to 1.5 seconds, then voltage is likely problematically low.

The little red volt-ohm-meters from Harbor Freight are about $5 and in my experience are accurate enough for an occasional voltage check. You want to see 104 or higher with things running evenly (voltage will drop lower during an A/C spinup).

[mtarms]

I have a 2015 Forrester MBS and the same thing happened to me. I’m a 40 year retired electrician. In my case it was not low voltage at the pedestal. The factory had not sufficiently tightened the electrical connections where the female plugs into the male on the motorhome, thus causing tremendous heat and even meltdown. This can occur on either the hot terminal or neutral. Looking at your picture this is most likely what happened to yours also, not the low voltage, but the low voltage did speed up the process. When it comes to heat, electricity is like everything else, it always finds the weakest “link”. Remember most all electrical breakers work off off heat, if all is well within the circuit, then as the heat in the wire builds up, one of the breakers at each end should theoretically trip or fault. If a connection is loose in between these two breakers then this is where the heat builds up and you have what you see in your pictures.
I took pictures of mine on the cord ends and also where the connections were made coming out of the motorhome (they were pretty burned up almost causing a fire).... sent them to Forest River and immediately one of their techs called me back. They were very nice and helpful and sent me everything from the new cord to the Furrion male connector on the motorhome at no cost. Hope this helps.... know how frustrating these things can be. God’s Blessings..... Darryl Semper Fi.

[VABob]

I had the same problem recently on my 2017 Rockwood fifth wheeler. Melted cord and socket inside the trailer. Woke-up in middle of night to the smell of burnt wires and no electric. I replaced both the socket and 30 amp cord end. Another 2017 Wildcat owner in our camping group had the same problem the next month.