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Old 10-14-2016, 12:13 AM   #1
Steelhorzz
 
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Can't open rv door !!

We were loading our GeorgeTown 360 this evenng, planning to head out tomorrow.

I "closed", (did not lock the door), went back into the house to gather a few more clothes.

When I returned and grabbed the handle, and tried to open the door, it felt like the dead bolt was locked!!

I took out my keys. and proceeded to lock, and unlock the dead bolt. NOTHING!

I then locked and unlocked both locks. Aain, NOTHING
It feels like it's locked!!

I've pushed on the door, and tried again. nothing!

I called a locksmith, who said he could drill it out, (and possibly damage the door). I thanked him, and I sent him away.

It's a Trimark 060-650, which I understand has been replaced with a newer model. Sooo, the real question is Does anyone know how to open the door to be able to replace the lock assembly, without damage to the actual door??

Thank goodness, I'm at home and not out in the boonies somewhere!
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:12 AM   #2
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Here is a link for TriMark. TriMark Corporation - Latch, Handle, Linkage, Electronic, Hinge, Vehicle door hardware
Many complaints on people getting locked out or in. Give them a call, maybe they can tell you how to open it and send you the new model?
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:40 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info !!

I spent a couple of hours on the internet last night gathering info on their website, and here on the forum.
All the reports I read here were people getting locked inside. It seems that's almost easier as you can disassemble the mechanism while in the coach. Not a pleasant experience, but doable of you have some basic tools. (At least you can drive it somewhere for repair)!!
After I called Trimark this morning and discussed my "issue", they emailed me a diagram of the lock with arrows and notes of how to get in! Tools required ---- (hammer and chisel). 😱 They also told me a new lock mechanism is $182! (I've already found them locally for $95!!). I'll post pics later of the diagram and of me "destroying the lock", to get in. They did not acknowledge that this was a known problem. But I received the email with the diagram in less than a minute after I hung up from them. Hmmmm 🤔
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:59 AM   #4
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Sounds like a safety issue and should be reported to the NTSB or some other agency. Getting locked in with a fire, flood or some other emergency is not good at all. Or getting locked out with children or pets inside would be terrible.
And the manufacturer should be replacing these locks free of charge. Class action law suit??
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:25 PM   #5
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Locked out

We had the same lockout issue with our 8285ikws 5th wheel. called a locksmith who picked the lock and told us to lubricate with
Powdered graphite.
Can't remember where we found it but it is manufactured by: The Hillman Group Inc. Small white plastic tube label says"handy puffer dispenser"
Net weight is 3grams About the size of a travel size toothpaste tube. Stick the tip in the key hole and squeeze.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:38 PM   #6
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On my Class A the drivers door locked me out lucky I had a second door it was also a Trimark lock. I ended up taking it apart from the inside and then replacing it before selling the RV. The internal parts of the lock had fallen apart. Good luck
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:11 PM   #7
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Teaman here

Got the same problem on a 2013 Sunseeker 2300 MH I just bought. Intermittant problem. Most times it opens OK. But randomly the door refuses to open. My daughter got locked inside one day. Luckily the MH class C has two doors in cab to exit. Am still needing to figure this one out. Dangerous I think. I also need repair or replacement ideas on this problem.
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:15 PM   #8
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The 650 lock has been superseded by the 1650 lock. Seems to be of better quality. It is a direct replacement, no mods required. Amazon has them for $89.
Drilling it may not work, my latch arm broke that connects the snap lock to the handle. It is made of potmetal. On my class C, I was able to remove the cover plate from the inside, removing the spring that engages the snap lock and used a pocket knife to move the snap lock back. I will be honest, how you drill the lock from the outside enough to release the snap lock is beyond me.
Search this forum for Trimark under the motorhomes I know I posted, when it happened to me.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Much easier if you could gain access to the inside, somehow. May need to decide which is cheaper, door or window replacement. I would choose a window.



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Old 10-14-2016, 03:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teaman View Post
Teaman here

Got the same problem on a 2013 Sunseeker 2300 MH I just bought. Intermittant problem. Most times it opens OK. But randomly the door refuses to open. My daughter got locked inside one day. Luckily the MH class C has two doors in cab to exit. Am still needing to figure this one out. Dangerous I think. I also need repair or replacement ideas on this problem.

IMHO, if you have a 650 lock, working good or not, replace it with a 1650. I will not say that the 1650 is better built, but mine is still working well after 2 years.


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Old 10-14-2016, 03:23 PM   #10
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Lock out

We had the same problem while at the beach this past year. The kids got locked in and we got locked out. The door kept getting jammed that whole day. Thought maybe the rv just wasn't leveled right. We tried to pry the door open. My 15 year old daughter took the door handle apart from the inside. Still couldn't get it opened. My husband tried to pry the door open from the outside. No luck. He then had to climb through the passenger window. He was able to find what was wrong. It was stuck in the locked position and he basically broke the whole handle to get it open. We had to hold the door closed that night with a bungee cord until we could get a new handle from Camping world. Once he put the new handle on it worked like a charm but our trim is beat up where we were trying to pry open the door.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:12 PM   #11
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Purchase new unit on Amazon or Ebay

Three screws to remove from inside unit. Drill out the stamped rivets. Use pliers to pull plunger out of door jam. Plunger is spring loaded so it takes some effort.

I was actually locked twice, once because of plunger and then again because of thrown dead lock. The cast aluminum or what ever metal, broke twice when engaged. I now carry a spare lock set just in case it happens again.

Funny thing, after it occurred, we met another Georgetown owner who now always leaves his window unlocked so he can get in just in case his lock breaks again!
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:26 PM   #12
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My friend, who we were camping with last week, had the same problem. His wife got locked in while he was fishing, and she called us and then him. We went over to their sight, and my wife kept my friend's wife company til he got back- only about 10 minutes. Well, he hemmed and hawed around wondering what to do when my wife reminded him that he did have a driver's entrance door. We got her out, but he wasn't able to get the main door open at all. He got discouraged, packed up everything, and went home. Kind of sad since we had reservations for a year ahead of time and his vacation got ruined. Think they would give him a refund on his remaining 7 days? No way. But that's another story... Anyway, his MH is sitting at an RV dealer lot waiting to get fixed.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:37 PM   #13
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Ditto on my 2015 GT 364. Trimark sent me a new one for free!
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:26 PM   #14
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I ran into a different problem with the (single) door on my 2011 Georgetown 327DS. The DW was inside and I was outside hooking up the toad at the end of the International Rally a few years ago when I discovered that I couldn't get the door open. Getting into the RV was simple because I just had her open up the emergency escape window and I crawled in through it. I couldn't open the door from the inside either.

A quick call to FR's Georgetown service facility got me an invitation to bring the rig over and they would see what they could do. When I got there, I tried again to open the door from the inside and discovered that by pulling it towards the hinges while trying to open it, it would open easily.

An examination of the door determined that the sheet metal screws that hold the door trim to the door had come loose and the last time the door had been closed, one of them came out enough to catch on the frame, keeping the door from opening. Inspecting those screws has become part of my regular checks.

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Old 10-15-2016, 09:01 PM   #15
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Steel, did you get your lock problem resolved? If so, what was your solution?


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Old 10-17-2016, 06:37 PM   #16
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Everyone that experiences this needs to file a complaint with NHSTA through safercar.com. This is a real safety issue and it is ocurring way too often.
Here is a link to a forum with several others with the same
issue. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...resaftey115473.
html#post1287061 and http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...forester114357.
html
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:34 PM   #17
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On the subject of locks!

Has any one found locks that can replace outside cam locks on and FR-3 30DS

These locks are lousy and I would love to replace them if possible!!!
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:27 AM   #18
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Camping World sells replacement barrel locks for the compartments but they're the wrong kind of lock because you can only remove the key when the lock is in the locked position.

I have barrel locks I purchased from a vendor I ran into at the Quartzite RV show a few years ago. The key can be removed with the lock open and closed which is what I wanted. Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the vendor and the documentation I have is in the RV which is in storage right now. I bought enough locks to change out all of the ones for the compartments that do not contain RV hardware that service technicians need access to.

I did a search on the web and found what I believe is the vendor: Industrial Lock & Hardware. The web address to get to their site is:
CH751 RV REPLACEMENT LOCKS, CAM LOCKS, CAMLOCKS

Phil
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Old 11-03-2019, 03:49 PM   #19
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Angry TriMark Lock on 2017 28 Forester

We were also locked in and out of our RV while on a recent cross country trip and could not get it unlocked. Had to get out the passenger doors with our 2 large (unwilling) dogs! Good Sam Travel Assist sent us to an RV truck and repair shop in Rawlins, WY. They had to pry the door to get at the lock. The door would not stay closed so we had to hold it with bunny cords. We found a place at our next stop who replaced the lock. The door is now damaged. Forest River says we are out of warranty. Good Sam Extended Service Plan will not cover the damage to the door. This is a safety issue we believe and a known issue with this lock. On Amazon the comments verify that this lock has not been fixed and they only last 2 years. Any help and oR suggestions? This is a life threatening issue. If there was a fire or any other emergency situation we could not have exited the R V quickly. We are replacing the door, at our expense and cancelling our Good Sam extended warranty. If you read the fine print it is not worth it. Any suggestions or if anyone else experienced this problem, please respond.
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Old 09-11-2020, 05:23 PM   #20
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Photo's of Drilled TriMark RV Lock

I had the same problem on our 2007 FR Forester Sept 3rd, 2020. Luckily we have a C class and were able to exit the RV via the cab door. I made a call to TriMark and they basically said you have to drill the lock. I asked where I would need to drill the lock since it is about 5" by 4 1/2". The person responded, "Behind the Handle", which was very little help. Drilling was tough to do and can hurt your wrist when the bit grabs the metal lock - go slowly.
I ended up drilling 5 holes (see Red and Blue boxes in attachments) in different spots to finally determine where the latch bolt broke.
I have attached photos of the lock with the inside handle removed (done by removing the 3 screws from inside the RV in the handle). Once this is done, you need to drill a 1/2 inch hole directly in the raised portion (red box) of the locks case about 1 1/4" from the edge of the door. The raised portion contains the doors latch bolt that breaks over time. I ended up drilling 3, 1/2 inch holes before I could see the broken latch bolt piece. Needless to say, there were many metal shavings from drilling which made "sliding" the latch back impossible. After vacuuming as many metal shavings from the lock as possible and drilling a small 1/8" hole (small blue circle in photo) through latch bolt and pulling with a wire looped (red pointer in photo) through the hole was futile (wire broke), I used a hammer and a large pointed nail stuck in at a 45 degree angle in the small hole I drilled (small blue circle in photo). I used a pair of pliers to hold the nail and gave it 3 HARD whacks with the hammer and the latch bolt moved allowing the door to FINALLY OPEN! Important note: be sure you have the dead bolt unlocked or the door will still not open...duh...
This process took about 3 hours due to my needing to drill many test holes and not knowing how to get the latch to move (hammer and nail - brute force).
Hopefully this post will guide you and help get the job done in less than an hour.
I purchased the new lock from Amazon for my RV - RV Designer T507 RV Motorhome Entry Lock with Deadbolt. Note this lock will work but you will need to do some MODs with a dremel tool to get it to fit. Call TriMark and maybe they have a perfect replacement, however it will cost you more!
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