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Old 09-06-2021, 07:18 PM   #21
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 7,611
Originally Posted by Bob43 View Post
You may want to try "Wet it forget it " I never tried it on a roof but it works great on the awning .... After I cleaned it I just sprayed this stuff on it and left it for about 2 months ... There may be a difference I think I used this one ... no damage to the awning and it has stayed clean ...
Im not sure cleaning the roof was the OP's issue...
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Old 09-06-2021, 10:48 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rui View Post
Hello FR friends...

I had a crazy thought and wondered if anyone's done the same.... bear with me... I'm new to the trailer world so am not sure what is do-able.... But I am pretty handy with plenty of outdoor here goes....

Winterizing the trailer.
Trailer is in trailer-park, so it'll be outdoors for the winter - Muskoka, Ontario area.
I intend on purchasing a cover for it. I've researched pro's and con's etc...

Here's my idea for a winter protection hack....
Foam tiles - like the ones used for gym/garage/kids' floors. 2x2 squares...
On rooftop, placed only, not glued or anything like that.... Under the cover.

I figure since the squares interlock, they'll support each other and be reasonably stable whilst UNDER the cover, especially if I add a couple of extra straps over top of the cover....

My strategy is to protect the roof from falling debris, branches, items that could poke a whole if fallen on rooftop...

Thoughts? Mold issues? Am I insane?
Not insane... just different.
Now, if your topic was tires or solar or batteries, this thread would go on for pages, and pages....
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Old 09-06-2021, 11:50 PM   #23
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Western Slope of the Sierras
Posts: 126
Look at 2 or 3 inch R-Tech foam panels. They're 4x8 feet and far cheaper and lighter than floor panels. About $24 where I live.
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Old 09-07-2021, 07:42 AM   #24
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NW Florida
Posts: 54

I donít think I would go to this much trouble as what you are concerned about would be covered by insurance but if I were going to I would use PVC instead of wood for a spacer as someone suggested because it is cheaper and lighter than wood. Rolling is not an issue because you can ďdry fitĒ it into a framework of whatever size you want, just donít glue it together.
2013 F150 Crew Rockwood 2906WS 32 ft
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Old 09-07-2021, 09:27 PM   #25
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 45
Thatís the sort of thing I do too often & seem to never learn. Donít worry about tree limbs, just put on the cover & call it a done deal. If you really want it protected, find indoor storage; pricey butÖ

What it amounts to is youíre insured & if something happens, file a claim. Itís a camper, they wear out & down, are diminishing assets, even pricey ones. For what we spend one wouldnít think so, but theyíre are fragile. Then you buy a new one & start the merry-go -round all over.
Industry average is 4 yrs of ownership before a person gets a different rig.
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Old 09-07-2021, 09:34 PM   #26
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: TEXAS
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Originally Posted by Rui View Post
Hello FR friends...
I use 1 1/2inch white plastic pipes, ( Home Depot) make them in a hoops with some horizontal, cross braces, which you just zip tie. any part that will touch the unit, I use foam pipe insulation. I drive pieces of rebar in the ground to slide the pipes over. and run some smaller white pipes horizontally at the base. Working great for the last couple of years, we are in BC so yes like you, lots of snow.
Rui, Do you have pictures? It sounds like a great solution, but I'm having trouble visualizing it.
2015 Dynamax REV 24TB class C
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Old 09-20-2021, 10:39 AM   #27
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 22
I'd consider using CPVC piping for the spacer between the roof and the mats. Say 3/4", maybe 1". It's cheaper and lighter than PVC. You could essentially build a spine or a grid for fairly cheap. Don't glue it, that way you could disassemble, store and reuse next year.
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