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Old 11-26-2010, 01:37 PM   #1
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Damaged trailer plug, now no power!

Ok yesterdasy when arriving at the camp ground i pinched in two pieces, i have used plastic splices and crimped them all together.

Not a big deal but perhaps related i can not run anything but my electric jack off the battery,

the biggest issue is i have electric brake power and driving lights but no tail and or turning lights.

Please help

i am at a loss for ideas the in line fuses i found by the battery and under the front are good. The trucks signals work and the bulbs are not burnt out.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:43 PM   #2
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I believe ford has a seperate fuse for trailer lights, turn signals etc. I think there is also an isolator as eell, check your owners manual on that
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:55 PM   #3
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Look on page 315 or therabouts in owners manual, power distribution panel under hood, all seperate relays for each trailer function. Lights, stop lights, turn signals, brakes, battery charging etc.
You may try swapping some of the relays from the working circuit to the inop circuit and see if that fixes it.
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Old 11-26-2010, 02:00 PM   #4
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Each item in the pigtail has its own fuse in your fuse block.
Of additional concern is the lack of DC power inside the camper while on TV power.
There is a "resettable" current limiter that separates the camper from the TV somewhere in your camper. On my 5th wheel, it is a red rubber covered square under the pin box.

I have heard from the TT crowd that the TT has one near the battery and it has a small reset button on its side.
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Old 11-26-2010, 05:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threegr8katz View Post
Ok yesterdasy when arriving at the camp ground i pinched in two pieces, i have used plastic splices and crimped them all together.

Can you clarify further...what got pinched, what location, etc. Did everything work okay the last time you used the camper?

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Old 11-26-2010, 06:15 PM   #6
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check the splices. i had a problem with turn signals/brake lights not working and traced it back to the splice under the truck. i have a 5th wheel and the in bed socket was spliced into the origional equipment wiring.
when i removed the light bulb at the trailer and checked voltage, all was normal. with a bulb in, it wasn't. splice was making contact but not enought to carry a load.
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Old 11-26-2010, 08:06 PM   #7
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My 08 F150 fuse panel is passanger side beside door. There are seperate fuses for the truck and trailer lights. That would be a good place to start if your trailer lights are not working. It is a.p.i.a. to get at the fuses.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:31 PM   #8
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Ok update, the trucks fuse panel under the hood had a couple fuses which I replaced,
all the splices are 100% all the lights work now.... Turn signals, brake lights, running lights and electric brakes......

The only problem now is the battery............ If the trailer is not plug in to 30 amp and i try to use the battery for lights pump what ever nadda///////////

before pinching the pigtail from the trailer to truck we used the pump and lights via the battery...........

I have check the fuse at the

battery..good
fuse in front of junction box...good
fuses and brakers at fuse panel all good.....

The pinch really has us stumped/

any new and additional thoughts

this is our first outing other then having it delivered to the house and it sitting in our driveway hooked up to amp
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:29 PM   #9
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There should be no reason why pinching your trailer lights would affect your battery power for the camper. I ripped mine off once and the 12volt system in the camper still worked fine. There is no way the battery disconnect got switched off is there? What does your information center say on the charge of the battery? Does it say it's full?

Another thought, on our Coachmen we had a few outlets that ran off of a converter that drew off the battery, one of those was a ground fault outlet and it tripped once killing all of the battery power inside the camper.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:35 AM   #10
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okay,

not sure if there is a gfi outlet tripped , several are working and only one that has the actually tripable lead..... I am guessing they are all linked to it.

I am sorry but I have no idea what the battery diconnect is where it is and how I could switch it on or off>?

yes the the information panel says that the battery has a full charge.....
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:08 AM   #11
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OK,

The Battery meter will read "Full Charge" whenever the camper voltage exceeds approx 13 volts. This is true regardless of what is providing the voltage.
Even the battery will read that if you check right after removing shore power until the camper draw reduces voltage below approx 13 volts.

The pigtail has 12 volt truck power direct to the battery on your TT. However to protect the camper's power circuits from short circuits; there is a current limiter between the battery/Tow Vehicle power and the camper. The round terminals on the wires could be corroded at that current limiter. Remove; sand; then replace them on the current limiter.

The individual fuse pigtails that got right to the battery (within 18 inches of the positive) are for high draw items like your front electric jack and any slides, if you have them. Those items will not be effected by a problem at the 30 amp current limiter.

Putting a DVM at the threads on the current limiter is not a good indication of current "pass through" at the wire. Put your DVM's test lead on the outbound WIRE or metal Terminal lug.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:08 AM   #12
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Kip have you checked the fuse (I think it is a 30 AMP) in the 12 V power line from your battery to the converter? Mine is located under the very front of the trailer. Follow the red wire from your battery to where it goes under the trailer that is where mine is. Call me if you don't get it figured & I will walk you thru it.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:32 AM   #13
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Ok Not to sure what to do Yes the 30 amp under the front on my trailer is green says 30 amp and is good.... don't see any other fuses corosion... my trailer was build later October and delivered in early November so corosion not too likely....

all works fine and slide when hooked to park power... not sure what dvm means

keep thinking......
thanks
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:45 AM   #14
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does the converter have a reset?

Is there a reset for the battery connect not sure what this is....

does it seem wierd that battery worked before pinch.. now rewired or put back together and nothing........
by the way the state park people are awesome.....
Camp host help use with lights on TT
park helpers brought air compressor so I could top off all my tires..... maybe a small leak but right now.....
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:57 AM   #15
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Kip, do you have a volt meter or any way to see if you have at least 13 volts at your converter when the shore power is turned off. To me a volt meter is a must have item.

Herk7769 what is a DVM ?
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:26 PM   #16
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AWESOME>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> everything is repaired......

the battery issue was a circut reset on a breaker under the TT..... a simple push in reset and wallah fixed

Ever in the Branson Area call Steves Mobile RV service 417 839 4957
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:03 PM   #17
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Answered the DVM question in a PM.

In the olden days of "sparks" we used VTVMs (Vacuum Tube Volt Meters). Tales From The Tone Lounge; The Incomplete Idiot's Guide To VTVM'S!
They cost upwards of $600 bucks in 1972.

Today we use Digital Volt Meters (DVMs). They are more accurate, and are sold everywhere for under 10 bucks. What inflation?
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper View Post
There should be no reason why pinching your trailer lights would affect your battery power for the camper..
Wrong. The trailer lights pigtail includes a battery lead.
If it were pinched to ground the trailer battery would
be shorted and most likely blow the fuse or circuit breaker.
I'm not familiar with this trailer so can't help in locating
that fuse/circuit breaker.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:30 PM   #19
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Dan makes a valid point.



If the 12 volt wire (Pin 4 wire) is pinched to ground (pin1 wire) somewhere in the cable, an "auto-resetting" circuit breaker will never reset and a manual resetting one will not either.
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Old 11-27-2010, 03:57 PM   #20
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by the way, how did the pigtail get pinched/crimped?

was it due to a tight turn or what?
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