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Old 02-03-2016, 07:57 PM   #1
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Design flaw???

Is this normal? I won't be able to keep doors in open position with awning out. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-03-2016, 08:04 PM   #2
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I have gas struts at top of door to prevent door opening that wide.....are yours missing?
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:38 PM   #3
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I guess so, didn't realize they supposed to have struts


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Old 02-04-2016, 11:19 AM   #4
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Maybe I'm wrong but once you open the awning..You should be able to open the doors...The awning arms will lift up and out of the way...You would have to make sure the doors are closed when you retract it...Our 2016 Rockwood 2703 has the strut on the bottom of the door.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:25 AM   #5
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Then again maybe it won't work...Here is a pic of the awning on my trailer when its open. Does look like the arm assembly would prevent the door from opening.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:30 AM   #6
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I don't see a door holder on either of those doors either. My guess is that it should have struts on it.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:09 PM   #7
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Our brand new Vengeance 25V has a newer style "sticky" hinge with no struts, or even the cheap plastic door catch on the outside to latch the door in the open position. One door (we have two) will only open to 90 deg when the awning is open but the "sticky" hinge holds it in place with no problem (I hope).

By "stick" hinge, I mean it seems like the hinge needs to be oiled but the dealer said this is what FR is doing now.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:37 PM   #8
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Our 16 Grey Wolf 26DBH does the same thing. I can open it maybe 120 Degrees or so before it contacts the awning. Its a "Friction" hinge that holds the door in place.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:50 PM   #9
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I guess I was just used to the other TT that I had where the doors were held open by the T bar latch. This has the gas struts that hold the door open, but not as far as I would like and in many cases the awning rests on the corner of the door. Has anyone got rid of the struts and gone back to the T style latches and if so, other than the obvious of drill and screw into the fiberglass, did you do any thing like use molys, silicone, tape caulk strips etc. Not looking to do any whoopsies, have it leak, come loose etc. I see the T latches come in 6" or 3" in black. Any other ideas?
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:15 PM   #10
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Jeff64, I am going to remove the strut and try a double sided tape with a 6" black Plastic T- Connector and see how that goes.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:26 PM   #11
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Tony, I see the quandary there. Your forward door looks to be covered when the awning is extended, but the rear door isn't.

My trailer is exact opposite, with the rear door covered over with an extended awning, but the forward (bedroom) door isn't. But this also allows for the awning arms to be positioned, where both doors will open all the way up flat against the trailer side. Hmmm, it is different for sure.

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Old 02-04-2016, 01:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ejs4029 View Post
Jeff64, I am going to remove the strut and try a double sided tape with a 6" black Plastic T- Connector and see how that goes.
I question as to whether or not the 2x sticky tape will hold long term. It'll do fine to get your positioning down and see if that's really what you want to do I guess.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:35 PM   #13
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Wmtire, you're right your doors can open up all the way with awning extended. Neither of my two doors can stay latched open with the awning extended. I don't mind that one door isn't covered but I'm disappointed with not being able to keep doors open like your TT. both of my doors hit the awning arms before they can reach the plastic door catch.


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