Destroyed anode rod 8 month old Grey Wolf

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by fredoe61

I'm just hoping tonight's 24 degrees doesnt hurt my pipes. I havent winterized yet cause we are taking it out 1 last weekend as in next weekend. I released both low point drains but I'm sure there are pockets of water plus the traps.

In addition, leave the faucets open to give the water room to expand as it freezes.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by fredoe61

I have thought about letting the furnace run in it all night

How did you make out?
Did you let the furnace run?

[rlh1957]

Let em trickle. That's what we did in trailers, houses, bunk houses back in the day. We left the faucets trickle. Sometimes the water still froze in the lines, but because it was left to trickle we usually didn't have any breaks. Then again, when a huge quick drop came even a waterfall would freeze! Hard days, gut great days back then.

[Teamgreen]

We have new 2017 grey wolf as well and ours did the same exact thing as yours .This was the first year of traveling with a full tank. Usually we drain every time we leave a campground.

I've seen lots of Anode rods and cannot figure out why the degradation is right at the fitting. Seems like it should be all over the rod. I also think the campground we had does have bad water. For peace of mind I replaced mine.

Hope this helps,Teamgreen

Thanks for the great site!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by bikendan

here's a chart that's been posted here many times:

You will notice (see the 100% image) that the anode rod consists of an aluminum (sometimes magnesium) rod with a steel core. Unless all you see is the steel core, the sacrificial anode is still protecting you. Chemically is is more active than the tank lining, and as long as some is left, it is attacked before the tank lining.

Larry

[Scrapper]

That chart bikendan posted is in your Suburban water heater installation / operation manual if you have it.

[petitecodiac]

I object. Well water(at least ours) is way purer than treated city water. We have never had a problem.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by petitecodiac

I object. Well water(at least ours) is way purer than treated city water. We have never had a problem.

You object to what?
You've never had a problem with what?


Did you intend to quote someone's post?

[jd50i]

Originally Posted by petitecodiac

I object. Well water(at least ours) is way purer than treated city water. We have never had a problem.

As you said, at least yours. My brothers well in N. Va. had a lot of iron in it that turned the inside of toilets, dishwasher, clothes washer etc. orange. Well water is different all over, even within the same town.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by petitecodiac

I object. Well water(at least ours) is way purer than treated city water. We have never had a problem.

You should try some of the well water in Florida that isn't treated first, if you can get past the smell!

[grumpyoldman]

Originally Posted by hack522

Your rod is still good. Just for future reference, at the end of the season while winterizing, I remove the rid and actually softly wire brush it. Gets any deposits off and fresh for the next season. I leave it out of the heater as well.

I do the same except I loosely install it to keep the critters out. In the spring I remove it again and teflon tape the threads and then tighten it.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by fredoe61

I pulled this bad boy out of the WH to drain it today and as you can tell it is destroyed. I have no idea how this happened. I never ran it without water in it but to me that's the only way that thing gets ate up like this on a TT I've taken 5 trips in and bought it in March 2017 brand new. Anyone else have this happen?Attachment 192263Attachment 192264

As you have found out, it isn't destroyed... but... the reason it is sacrificed near the threads is because the anode screws into a steel threaded bung and the anode worked extra hard at that spot to try and protect the steel bung. This happens because of an electrochemical process between the anode and the cathode. (the steel in the tank)

The bung really doesn't need protecting because of the mass of which it is made but because it was the closest available metal for the anode to interact with, it used up that end of the rod first.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Teamgreen

I've seen lots of Anode rods and cannot figure out why the degradation is right at the fitting. Seems like it should be all over the rod. I also think the campground we had does have bad water. For peace of mind I replaced mine.

Hope this helps,Teamgreen

Thanks for the great site!

It's electrolysis. There's current flowing through the water and the tank. The part near the fitting is the lowest resistance path and erodes first. Look at the 25% picture in the chart that was posted. Were it not for the anode, iron from the cast-iron tank would be eroded.

Lots more detail on the process here.

The process is somewhat similar to the reversible process inside your lead-acid storage battery. In that process lead on the plates is transferred to lead-sulfate by current flow as the battery discharges.

[Garrette]

Thought I would chime in. Anodes come in different materials. Camco sells both aluminum and Magnesium. I do not know what Surburan used and why the two different materials but after reading wiki, I replaced mine with a magnesium rod.
Thoughts are appreciated.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Garrette

Thought I would chime in. Anodes come in different materials. Camco sells both aluminum and magnesium. I do not know what Surburan used and why the two different materials but after reading wiki, I replaced mine with a magnesium rod.
Thoughts are appreciated.

Magnesium is more active than aluminum and more expensive. Magnesium rods are consumed faster but are more effective.

Our 2007 Cherokee 38P sits in the same spot, on the same local well and has water in the heater tank about 9-10 months a year (just winterized last Sunday). The anode rod looks like new. I haven't replaced it in four years and I don't think the previous owner did either. This tells me that the well water here is very benign, that I don't need to switch to magnesium.

Larry

[Johntgif]

"Been there, Done that" are the helpful comments from our collective experiences. Don't hesitate to ask anything pertaining to the camping experience and you will learn quickly how to make your personal experiences better.
Happy Camping!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Garrette

Thought I would chime in. Anodes come in different materials. Camco sells both aluminum and Magnesium. I do not know what Surburan used and why the two different materials but after reading wiki, I replaced mine with a magnesium rod.
Thoughts are appreciated.

Suburban water heaters come with magnesium anodes from the factory.

[RangeMaggotBob]

Originally Posted by fredoe61

I'm a newbie I stand corrected. Thanks.

You had me nervous for a minute. Mines looks the same, and I thought it was fine. Til I read your post. And the replies. I'm okay now...

[Daycruiser]

Those things are cheap, throw out the Magnesium rod and water filter every year and replace them for the new season. I've gotten some really crappy water that took a big bite out of a new rod one year, so became an annual maintenance routine to throw them out and replace them regardless of amount used.

[ADVtraveller]

We buy anode rods online in groups of 2 or 3 or more at a time. We replace them once a year, or sooner if needed. Then buy more when the last one in reserve is used.
Like any serious endeavor, RVing has a learning curve to it. You'll be on here soon enough helping others.