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Old 06-08-2021, 09:00 AM   #21
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Two AC units and only a 30 amp system in the trailer? First I've heard of one with that small a system.

I can run my Roo AC on a 20a connection but not much else. Was OK for working in the driveway in the summer.

Some day I'll but my AC watt meter on the system and see what these draw but folks report problems starting them on 15 amps.

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Old 06-08-2021, 09:18 AM   #22
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Two AC units and only a 30 amp system in the trailer? First I've heard of one with that small a system.
From the current specs of his Arctic Fox, a single 13K A/C and 30-amp is standard. If the A/C is upgraded to a 15K unit it requires a 50-amp upgrade.

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Old 06-08-2021, 09:24 AM   #23
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A related question: I have a 30amp trailer but my home connection is a 20amp circuit. Not a problem UNLESS I need to work inside the 5er in mid summer and don't want to melt. Would an EasyStart permit me to run the A/C on the 20amp receptacle?
Probably but there are a few considerations.

Do you have the stock single 13K A/C or the upgraded 15K in your Arctic Fox? I suspect the stock 13K.

Are you trying to use a GFCI outlet at home? If so, RVs can cause the GFCI to trip so a GFCI outlet should not be used if possible.

Are you sure it's a 20-amp outlet? A 20-amp outlet has the "sideways T" for one of the slots. A 15-amp outlet just has the two vertical slots (and the ground),

What else is running? For example, if your batteries are charged from a converter and the batteries are low then the converter can draw enough power from the outlet so that starting the A/C will trip the home breaker.

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Old 06-21-2021, 06:27 PM   #24
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I have an Easystart on my fwd A/C because we had only 20amps at our summer spot but it works great with our 2 inverter generators that give us 30amps. We don't dry camp but have used our generators MANY times for power outages at RV parks. If you stay long term most places charge you for electricity. We did this last winter on the OR coast due to covid. The big starting amp draw is minimized and should cut the power bill a little. We will be in Vegas for 6 weeks the end of this summer (WORST time temp wise) so I'll be adding one to the rear A/C when we get there. Anything that tames Amp spikes is good.

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Old 06-21-2021, 06:31 PM   #25
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What's an East Start please???
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:36 PM   #26
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https://www.microair.net/products/ea...r-conditioners
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:02 PM   #27
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I think someone said they make the AC unit quieter good for sleeping. Maybe that will get you modding again? Also I think again someone said it's easier on the AC too! might give it a longer life span.

Most of the noise from the AC is from the fan through the vents.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:11 PM   #28
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Wink

One thing that has been on my mind lately is the electrical capacity at many of the older campgrounds. These campgrounds are getting older and the newer RV's are sucking up more electrical power. We're seeing on other threads where the pedestal isn't providing full power, especially if you are towards the end of the circuit. This is one of the reasons we're adding the soft-start system is so we can still run our AC in these types of parks.
Just a thought.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:17 PM   #29
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Another consideration is if you want to run any other high current draw device like a microwave, if the microwave is running and the AC tries to start, you will probably kick the main breaker.
The softstart will help this by not not drawing the FLA on startup.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:34 PM   #30
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Another consideration is if you want to run any other high current draw device like a microwave, if the microwave is running and the AC tries to start, you will probably kick the main breaker.
The softstart will help this by not not drawing the FLA on startup.
I installed my MicroAir unit so I could run the A/C and Microwave at the same time with less "strain" on my generator.

The A/C now starts so easy, and even quieter when starting, that I have to believe there is less stress on the A/C unit itself.

To me it's well worth the cost.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:46 PM   #31
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My first two RV did not have the soft start air conditioner. Both would jolt me awake each time the compressor kicked on. My new ISATA 3 must have this installed as I can barely detect when the compressor kicks on. Has never woke me up. This alone might be reason enough. Dean
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:15 PM   #32
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A friend of mine did the microair and I did the easy startrv. He did to run his ac on a smaller generator. I usually trip the 30 Amp breaker on the pole when my ac, microwave and my electric griddle. I have not been able to try that combo with 30 Amp.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:46 PM   #33
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My first two RV did not have the soft start air conditioner. Both would jolt me awake each time the compressor kicked on. My new ISATA 3 must have this installed as I can barely detect when the compressor kicks on. Has never woke me up. This alone might be reason enough. Dean
Did it dampen the sound or the physical shake to the RV? Both?

I have a very small camper and would love to take the physical shake out of the compressor startup.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:50 PM   #34
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Surprised this wasn't mentioned, but if you are the type that wants to protect your RV as much as possible, you would have something like a Watchdog or other type of current protection to protect from surges and low voltage.

If you do have one, especially with 2 AC units, easystarts are a must. If you have it on one AC, and are dogboned to a 30 amp, the second AC can drop the input voltage enough to trigger a reset, but if both AC have easystarts, then both can actually run off the 30 amp circuit with reserve left over. This is what I did for my home setup. I installed a 30 amp feeder for my previous trailer and don't have an option yet for 50 amp due to the distance, and recently I noticed that my house is not getting the full 120v from the mains due to distance, we are at the end of the run, and our transformer is 50 years old. Our average leg voltage is 116-118 and when the AC hard started, it drew 3500 watts and dropped voltage to 109, when running draws 1500 watts. When the second AC kicked on, it drew 3500, but not in addition to the 1500 running, just that the Watchdog reported 3500 when it started but it dropped line voltage to 98, killing the power immediately.

Now with two easystarts, the current ramps up to about 2300 watts on startup and diminishes to 1500 watts when at full speed, line voltage drops to 114. The second AC coming on shows less than 2800 watts being drawn with voltage staying at 114. Both AC running consume 2400-2800 watts on a dogboned 30 amp.

I think it is totally worth the money to install them in your AC regardless if you dry camp or RV park. If the RV park happens to run into a low voltage situation, and you have protection, your AC's will be dead the entire stay. With an Easystart, they will still run since they draw little current while spooling up.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:51 PM   #35
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Did it dampen the sound or the physical shake to the RV? Both?



I have a very small camper and would love to take the physical shake out of the compressor startup.
It did on mine but I believe the amount if success in this area will also depend on the structure.

Now my A/C just starts smoothly without what I would describe as a "shudder" lasting a couple seconds.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:52 PM   #36
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Did it dampen the sound or the physical shake to the RV? Both?

I have a very small camper and would love to take the physical shake out of the compressor startup.
It spools up the compressor so you don't get that thump as the compressor comes on at full speed, in fact you have to listen closely to even know when the compressor is spooling up. When at full speed the hum it makes is also reduced.
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:24 PM   #37
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Easy start

You might see a definite benefit. In my case i could never run the AC and run our Hoover at the same time before Easy Start installed. On shore power the 30 amp main breaker would trip EVERY time the AC would start before installation with Hoover running. After instsall this never happens. I can now also run the AC and microwave at the same time. On Gen power I can now run the AC and watch TV running only one Honda EU2000. Worth every cent it cost me running on both Gen and Shore power.
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:33 AM   #38
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Sold. If only to eliminate the compressor start up 'thump'.
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:16 AM   #39
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I think you know the answer--it's in what you wrote

You defined the condition: you only camp where you have access to 30A hookups.

SoftStart and EZ Start are only needed where you don't have access to 30A.

So, no, you don't need either one.



If you go boondocking with an ultra-quiet Honda EU2200i generator, and you're where it's so hot you want air conditioning, then yes, you need SoftStart or EZ Start.

If you need air conditioning and the power fails in your RV Park, AND if you have a small generator (like the Honda EU2200i), then yes, you need SoftStart or EZ Start.

If you park in your driveway and don't have access to a 30A circuit, and you're unwilling to install one, AND you want air conditioning going in your rig, then yes, you need SoftStart or EZ Start.



But by your definition, you never camp where there's no access to 30A. So no, you don't need SoftStart or EZ Start.
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:21 AM   #40
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If you park in your driveway and don't have access to a 30A circuit, and you're unwilling to install one, AND you want air conditioning going in your rig, then yes, you need SoftStart or EZ Start.
Actually, the A/C will run just fine on less than a 30A circuit if you are not running other stuff. I have no problems running it plugged into my 20A circuit.
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