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Old 03-01-2021, 08:26 PM   #41
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Yes. Doing it 50 years. Full charge in a couple hours.

I have to question negatives. They must not tow trailers.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:30 PM   #42
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This is what I have done to several friends vehicles. I run 2 - #2 cables to the rear bumper area of the truck. Install a quick connect. Then from the Trailer I install the same from the batteries. Up close to the tow vehicles battery I installed the 100 amp circuit breaker. It can be used as a switch also to disable it until it’s needed. It’s always worked well for them. I need tondo it to my set up as well. Hopefully I’ll get time. A little attention to detail and it will be trouble free and work great for years to come. My 2005 2500 6.0 gas Silverado has the tow and plow package which gives it the 200 amp alternator. No issues at all with output. One word of caution. If you don’t have a battery buddy installed to cut the voltage off at 11.5 volts you won’t be able to start your tow vehicle. The ignition ready circuit breaker can help as well by not letting current flow until the ignition is turned on. The goal is to charge and supply these new 12v refrigerators and keep battery’s topped off while traveling.....4 hour trips when running these appliances can be very hard on batteries....... This was kinda easy and the wire is the most expensive. I’m a welder/fabricator and am very mechanically inclined but really isn’t that bad...Good luck...
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:36 PM   #43
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Our Ram 2500 diesel has two 170A batteries and a 220A alternator. We routinely dry camp for the night on long trips and leave the truck connected to the fifth wheel. When going south of I-10 to snowbird, we have the furnace and tank heaters running all night and the refrigerator on propane. We have been down to single digit temps and never had any difficulty starting the truck the next morning. The truck provides sufficient power and the alternator fully recharges the trailer during the following day's drive. A winter day's drive on I-25 and I-10 is generally 6-8 hours, unless it starts snowing or the wind is blowing 50 mph! Then we hole up in a NM state park with electric hookups.
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Old 03-01-2021, 10:14 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
There are DC to DC chargers that increase charging rates.
Which comes with its own set of problems ...
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Old 03-01-2021, 11:24 PM   #45
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Which comes with its own set of problems ...
How is that a problem?
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:05 AM   #46
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I have a 15 ram 1500 with tow package. It charges or TT while towing. It will drain your TV battery if you leave it them connected and TV not running.

We went to the Tetons from Mi last spring and camped with no generator or hook up. I would hook them together with the truck running to charge the TT and it worked great.
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:14 AM   #47
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Yes it does charge your battery
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:29 AM   #48
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Which comes with its own set of problems ...
I simply was pointing out to the OP who was asking questions about the vehicle charging the R/V battery that there are options besides just the factory supplied wire/charge.

Since you must believe my advice is a can of worms, maybe you'd like to expound on why you think so.
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Old 03-02-2021, 10:16 AM   #49
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I just got a generator instead

I have seen YouTube videos that show how to install a DC to DC charger. Requires heavy gauge wire, circuit breakers and heavy duty connections to the TT battery. and May require a bigger alternator? That's the only way I know to get good charging. I did not want to fool with that so I bought a generator.
In my experience the TV will not charge the battery enough for overnight use for more than one day. Unless you run it for several/many? hours. I have 2- 6 volts in my TT and the standard 7 pin plug.
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Old 03-02-2021, 10:38 AM   #50
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Does the battery voltage between TT and TV battery level off to the same voltage when the TT is plugged in? My guess would be no. The way an alternator works AFAIK is it has a sensor wire from the battery to the regulator. The regulator applies more or less current to the fields to regulate how much charge is put in the battery. If the alternator doesn't read the TT battery voltage then it is controlled by the TV battery. Does that seem correct?
I would think that once the TV is connected to TT all batteries are now in parallel circuit.Therefore the voltage the alternator regulator recognizes will be consistent across all batteries in the connected circuit. Unless there is some electrical isolator between the TV and the TT.??
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Old 03-02-2021, 11:27 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I simply was pointing out to the OP who was asking questions about the vehicle charging the R/V battery that there are options besides just the factory supplied wire/charge.

Since you must believe my advice is a can of worms, maybe you'd like to expound on why you think so.
Perhaps I misspoke. I was under the impression that DC to DC chargers have limited charging stages that could result in overcharging issues. If that is not the case, my apologies.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...50-400W-EN.pdf

I see that this unit does have 3 stage charging and thus my concern would not an issue.
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Old 03-02-2021, 11:52 AM   #52
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My TV connections has pin marked Bat.. Therefore its hot all the time and is directly connected to the vehicles staring battery. When the alternator regulator senses low voltage it cranks it up so all batteries will receive a charge including the TT. How much depends on the regulator and alternator outputs.
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:52 PM   #53
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Installers for DC to DC Charger

I have a 2016 Ford F 350 & Rockwood 8332 with 2 - 6 volt AGM golf cart batteries. I'm looking for an installer to add a 40 amp Renogy DC to DC charger to truck activated through the dash toogle switches to suppliment charging to the camper batteries. We are in Central Florida & not really getting anywhere with Renogy support. Any assistance or direction would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-03-2021, 07:52 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCR View Post
I would think that once the TV is connected to TT all batteries are now in parallel circuit.Therefore the voltage the alternator regulator recognizes will be consistent across all batteries in the connected circuit. Unless there is some electrical isolator between the TV and the TT.??
As far as I know, yes you are right. If there is no current flowing in the wire, the voltage will be the same. As the current increase, the drop in the wire increases. For non-car voltage regulation (ie: electronics) you use a small conductor where there is no current for the sense circuitry. That way the regulator will increase the voltage at the source to control the voltage at the destination (the battery).

Sadly when towing a trailer, there is no sense wire between the trailer battery and the regulator, so trailer battery is at a somewhat lower voltage. The good news is that if there is voltage drop in the wire, that's because current is going in the trailer and that's what you want!

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Old 03-03-2021, 09:55 AM   #55
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Renogy dc to dc My stupid question

STUPID Question

i have heavy wiring to the 7 pin to charge the batt on my TT but i had a problem traveling in the south last yr it couldent keep up the charge on my 2 - 12V batt i have 300 watts solar all renogy
it was so hot that we parked in the shade when ever we could ...
thus no solor charge i had to run the gen a lot so my stupid question is ...

im looking at the renogy 20 amp i know every body is using the 40 amp ..
but do to the fact.
i like to spend money on old black betty so funds are tight..
i am all so swapping out the 2-12V batt's for 2- 6V batt's

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Old 03-03-2021, 10:59 AM   #56
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My truck has a high capacity alternator and does a pretty good job topping off the camper battery on 100+ miles trips. There is a relay under the hood that keeps the camper from pulling power off the truck battery with the ignition off.
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Old 03-03-2021, 01:05 PM   #57
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Solar Panels were mentioned...
If there is power coming from the TV and Solar... who charges the TT?

(I know the first answer... "It Depends").
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Old 03-03-2021, 05:22 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunnyCamper View Post
Solar Panels were mentioned...

If there is power coming from the TV and Solar... who charges the TT?



(I know the first answer... "It Depends").
Whoever produces the higher voltage. So yes, it depends.
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Old 03-04-2021, 08:34 AM   #59
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DC/DC Renogy 20 amp charger/LIFEPO4 12v drop in

I upgraded my 1706 pop up from a 65 ah lead acid to a 100ah Li drop in and left it mounted on the tongue in an ABS 24 battery box. My tow vehicle had a 160 amp alternator with a 4 pin trailer plug. I converted that when I bought my camper to a 7 pin for the camper brake system. That kit included a 8 gauge wire going from the service battery/alternator to the aux power pin on the 7 way which I used to directly input power to the Renogy 20 amp DC/DC charger. The 8 gauge wire was the minimum size for the 20 amp charger for 15 feet per the Renogy install wire chart. The 40 and 60 amp chargers require larger gauge wire.
The main reason for installing the DC/DC 20 amp charger was to limit not increase my charging rate from my service battery to the LIFEPO4 house to 20 amps to protect my wiring and alternator. Lithium batteries differ from lead acid in that their internal resistance is very low and can accept very high charge rates, up to 100 amps for mine, frying wires and alternators when being charged from a low to high state of charge. With this set up my charging amperage when towing at 2500 RPM to a low SOC house Lithium is kept below 18amps.
For towing in cold weather I installed a DC 12V Fahrenheit Digital Temperature Controller 10A Relay with Sensor and switch that automatically stops alternator charging to my Lithium below 35F battery case temperature. I also wrapped my Li battery in a 10amp 12v DC tankless water heater heater that provides 6 amps of heat heat below 40 F thermostatically. This increases my ambient charge temperature range. Nobody makes a Lithium 12v battery heater, just 120v and they are not recommended for Lithium’s. Cold weather Lithium’s are now on the market with internal battery heaters but are $300 more than the non heated ones. The 12v heater is $40 and only draws 6 amps and will not melt a ABS plastic battery box and was given the okay by my Lithium battery manufacturer.
I also switched out my WFCO 30amp power center for a Progressive Dynamics 35amp Power Center with a Lithium switch for 120v Lithium charging. I sold the WFCO on EBay for $80.
This was a retired pilot Covid project with time on his hands scheduled for a vaccine shot next week which was kept under $700 who is ready to hit the road.
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