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Old 08-02-2018, 10:01 AM   #1
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Dometic RM 1350 no longer running on electricity

We have a 2016 forester 3011DS with a dometic 1350RM refrigerator that no longer runs on electricity. Searched the forum for earlier discussions regarding this problem. Tried all the suggestions. Outlets in back for fridge plugs working when tested. All fuses intact. GFI fine. Microwave works. AC works. Propane keeping fridge cold so no issue with food spoilage. Would like to save the propane for cooking if possible.
Has anyone had similar issues that were fixed easily! Hate to send it for repairs right now, have a few more trips planned before the season ends. Any help would be appreciated. Have a great day.
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:05 AM   #2
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Please don't take this the wrong way, but I'm assuming the selector isn't just on gas but on auto.
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:28 AM   #3
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You say fuses intact (assume not open (blown)) but did you check the 5amp fuse (it's a 3ag (glass) fuse) on the circuit board?
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:59 AM   #4
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Check the glass fuses with a meter then check to see if you have power at the electrical heating element.
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:01 AM   #5
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Yes, the fridge is on auto. Worked fine the first 2 days on electricity then switched to gas. I checked the fuses on the circuit board and outside on the back of the fridge. Did not see a glass fuse. Would that be on the back side of the fridge? Or inside, on the panel under the bed?
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:11 AM   #6
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Where are the glass fuses located? I don’t see them anywhere. Are they located in the black box on the bottom right corner on the back of the fridge? If that is blown would it still run on propane?
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:18 PM   #7
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There are 2 fuses on the circuit board 4amp for propane and a 5 amp for AC. I think the circuit board is where you are referring to. It would still run on propane.
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Old 08-02-2018, 01:20 PM   #8
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I also have a 2016 Forester 3011DS and my Dometic refrigerator had the same problem. I couldn't get into that little box in the back of the unit because I couldn't undo the clip on the right side of it . I took it to my local service center, also where I bought it, and I had them deal with it and a fried AC unit I took it on a Monday and i had it back, all fixed, on that Friday. It was a fuse inside that box that was the problem and with the refrigerator and it was the compressor on the AC unit. They got a new AC unit, installed it, and fixed the fridge in less than 5 days.. all covered under the extended warranty policy i bought when i bought the RV. They have always taken care if me very well. Meyer's RV in Bath, NY.
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Old 08-02-2018, 01:22 PM   #9
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The fuses are located under that black cover.

Should be a 3 amp for the control power and a 5 amp for the electric element.

As said above, don't just look at them, test them.
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Old 08-02-2018, 02:12 PM   #10
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Don't want to add more system checks than what has been previously noted, but I had a similar problem with the fuse holder on the printed circuit board not making good contact with the spade type of fuse. In addition to the fuse, the micro switch on the 'eyebrow' selector panel (located behind the RH freezer door) went bad when going from gas to AC. The replacement 'eye brow' panel is an easy replacement, part cost is ~ $40. After I replaced the 'eyebrow', I purchased new micro switches on the internet, I think Ebay, for ~ $4. It is a rather tedious job to un/re-soldier the new switches but at least I have a spare 'eyebrow'. BTW, very gently push the 'eyebrow' switches to avoid damage to the micro switches.
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Old 08-02-2018, 02:43 PM   #11
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You can find the service manual for the Dometic RM1350 here. https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Serv...,%20RM1350.pdf
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Old 08-02-2018, 04:33 PM   #12
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No help from me. Let me just say I am not a fan of anything made by Dometic. It is all garbage and way overpriced. I only post this that it might fall on the deaf ears of someone at Dometic and very doubtful they could care less!
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:34 PM   #13
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Dometic

I think your wrong, I have a 2000 fridg Dometic that spend all winter outside somme days at - 30 degrees and every year at summer I start one time and run all the time. No Problem!
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:57 PM   #14
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We don’t have the right tools to even take the cover off the box. Think the access panel was made for the smaller fridge and Forester didn’t enlarge it for the bigger one. Will have to look at it when we get home. Are the fuses available anywhere? Or would I have to order them on a camping website? Anyone know the part number I could order on amazon and have it at our house when we get home next week. Thanks for all the replies! It’s nice to know that people are able to help you in the here and now. Hope I won’t need anything urgently but it’s nice to know people look out for each other. Have a great weekend everyone!
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:24 PM   #15
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Dometic

Usely there are AGC Fuse type.

https://www.amazon.ca/Bussmann-BP-AG...ds=5+amp++fuse
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Old 08-03-2018, 10:54 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinks View Post
We don’t have the right tools to even take the cover off the box. Think the access panel was made for the smaller fridge and Forester didn’t enlarge it for the bigger one. Will have to look at it when we get home. Are the fuses available anywhere? Or would I have to order them on a camping website? Anyone know the part number I could order on amazon and have it at our house when we get home next week. Thanks for all the replies! It’s nice to know that people are able to help you in the here and now. Hope I won’t need anything urgently but it’s nice to know people look out for each other. Have a great weekend everyone!
I don't think special tools are required and I thought there is instructions right on the cover as to removal. Maybe not.
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:02 PM   #17
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Check the fuses first. If all check OK look at the heating element rod(s). You should be able to Google this manual if you don not have a copy.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:07 PM   #18
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As I said earlier, you'll need to check the glass fuses on the circuit board (black box) behind the fridge. Yes, it's a bit tough to get to but accessible.

When mine blew, it was because the tabs on the holder weren't holding the fuse tight enough, the fuse got hot and melted the solder inside the fuse. It 'looked' good but wasn't.

Fuses are available lots of places.
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:21 PM   #19
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Bubbles, the tool I’m talking about is a long screwdriver or something to be able to pop the cover off...there’s not enough room for even me with my small hands to reach the far side. The opening is made for the 6cu ft fridge and I have a 12. I plan to try when I get home and let everyone know how I make out. Appreciate all the help. I do have copies of manuals but I find the responses on this forums so much more helpful! I’m new to these “toys”! Had a pop up for 18 years with the bare minimum! I even had a hard time getting my cable going right! Haha
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:10 AM   #20
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It’s the fuse

No special tools required. The black box on the bottom right back of fridge is just in a tight spot. I had the cooling unit replaced under warranty twice since June this year (2017 model). The fuse issue did not seem out of the norm for the tech that replaced the cooling unit. It’s a pain, I cracked the plastic door trying to get to the fuse. The tech said that the covers frequently break to gain access and does not pose a problem to the operation.

Most likely blow when plugging to shore power.

There are many issues with this model of fridge. It is highly sensitive to leveling (front to back mostly). The other issue is related to heat removal. Forest River didn’t line up the heat source and the flue to the roof and put the fan and sensor in the wrong spot. Not just our unit. Tech said it was a design issue. They do the same mod every time they take the fridge out.

They also move shield wiring not related to the fridge that causes other issues.
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