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Old 12-18-2016, 05:06 PM   #21
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This seems to be an endemic problem with fresh water tanks in almost all FR products. In my 2011 Georgetown, the overflow hose enters the fresh tank from the top surface but it appears that the tube was inserted a little more than 1/3 the depth of the tank into it. In my opinion, there's no excuse for this and it's an indication of sloppy assembly procedures.

The overflow setup is a 90 degree elbow that rises around 1" above the tank where the overflow tube is clamped to it. This rise isn't enough to prevent water sloshing into the overflow when traveling with a full tank of water, something we always do, especially when traveling during the winter months when we can easily need to go 3-5 days between stops where fresh water is available. I intend to fix this by removing the overflow tube and drilling a small hole in the top of it to break the vacuum that causes siphoning the fresh water out of the tank. I think I can insert a small diameter tube in the hole I drill and attach it to the ceiling of the compartment which will prevent dust from entering the overflow tube. As long as my small additional tube rises above the top of the overflow tube, I shouldn't ever have any water exiting it.

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Old 12-18-2016, 05:08 PM   #22
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First observation is that the tank vent connection is at the TOP of the tank. Therefore it cannot drain the tank. BUT if the drain line was run up to the vent at the fill, being that it IS mounted at bottom side of tank it could drain tank. It would be easy to follow the lines .. Are you sure your drain line valve is completely shut off?
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:14 PM   #23
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First observation is that the tank vent connection is at the TOP of the tank. Therefore it cannot drain the tank...
Actually it can... this was how my last Diesel Pusher was run... drain line was at the top of the tank, then it was routed along the top, then down the side and ultimately drained at or right below the bottom of the tank. But it was run to the top and the drain line was inserted about 1/4-1/3 of the way down into the tank from the top. So once water started coming out, it basically auto-siphoned itself to about the 2/3rds full mark (I would loose 1/3 of my fresh water).
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:49 PM   #24
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dmlranhc

My 2017 Heritage Glen had the same problem. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't understand the purpose for it, but that the water was being siphoned out of the hose sticking out the bottom. Anyway, they put a valve at the end of that hose and told me to open it when filling the tank for air to escape and close it when the tank was full. Forest River didn't pay for the fix, but the dealer didn't charge me. They think it is a stupid design by the manufacturer and so do I. I almost always fill before I leave home because state parks that I go to do not have water outlets at every camp site. Before the valve was installed I would arrive at the campground and one third of my water was gone, having been siphoned out or just drained through the overflow outlet from splashing as I drove on the roads. Personally I hate the way the trailer fills with fresh water, having to connect the hose just like to city water connections. I much preferred the old way of just sticking the hose into the fill hole until water came out that same hole, when the tank was full.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:05 PM   #25
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That is exactly what I said. Right between the tank fill and city water hook up is where the vent line should be, it's there they (FR) just filled it in with clear silicone.
^^^ What he said.
Forest River was lazy on my Wildcat too. Instead of running the vent/overflow up to the fitting on the fill they ran the hose out the bottom.
Run some clear hose up towards the filler and hook it to the vent fitting and it will be good to go. No more siphon since it's higher than the tank.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:59 PM   #26
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Just one of the many reasons I won't own a FR product or Jayco. Both the manufacturers and dealers feel if you can afford the RV you should take responsibility for all problems after the RV leaves the dealers premises. Notice how many people had the time to make the necessary repairs themselves that the manufacturer messed-up to begin with.
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:35 PM   #27
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Just one of the many reasons I won't own a FR product or Jayco. Both the manufacturers and dealers feel if you can afford the RV you should take responsibility for all problems after the RV leaves the dealers premises. Notice how many people had the time to make the necessary repairs themselves that the manufacturer messed-up to begin with.
The problem is Thor and Forest River now have 83% of the RV market. That consideraby but not totally limits ones choices. Many of the smaller companies like Jayco have been bought out by them..... As for the issue at hand a valve is a cheap and quick fix. It worked on my Jayco.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:53 AM   #28
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Just one of the many reasons I won't own a FR product or Jayco. Both the manufacturers and dealers feel if you can afford the RV you should take responsibility for all problems after the RV leaves the dealers premises. Notice how many people had the time to make the necessary repairs themselves that the manufacturer messed-up to begin with.
You got my curiosity flowing. What brand do you own or would you own?
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:54 AM   #29
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It's really sad when it's pretty well considered that over 80% of the RV's are made by 2 corporations who bottom line spend a great deal of time doing CYA.


My issue was electrical and in the first phone call with FR I was told to contact my insurance company and have them handle it. The trailer was 6 weeks old.

I have spent a good bit of time looking for our next RV and the words detail, quality, craftsmanship and customer service are almost non-existent in this industry.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:14 AM   #30
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Air flow across the end of the drain hose creates a vacuum and starts a siphon process on many trailers. There is a very simple fix. Go the RV, or hardware, store and get a simple on/off valve and install it on the overflow line. Close it when traveling with tank full. Cost - less than $3.00.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:17 AM   #31
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PLEASE don't use this thread as another platform to complain about general RV quality!

To the OP- we wonder, as others have stated whether you got the full story or just what the dealer wanted to tell you.
But we also don't recommend towing with a full water tank. Are there spigots near where you intend to camp? Can you travel with just a few gallons and then fill up at your destination? That's your best bet.

In my previous trailer the fresh tank was inside the front storage and sat on a pretty solid floor so I was not concerned about a full tank rupturing or somehow falling out of the rig. It would slosh out a good portion of water on a long haul trip. Since it was so easy to reach, I simply put a spring clamp on the over flow/vent hose on those rare occasions we wanted to travel with a full tank.

My current rig has the tank under the floor but hidden by the belly skin so I'm not going to haul with anything resembling a full tank until or unless I've removed the skin and inspected the tank for adequate support. I can only remember 1 or 2 times EVER when we camped and truly needed to bring water from home or at least from a distance.

Good luck and I hope this is the only wrinkle in your camping experiences!!
Have Fun and Happy Trails!
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:45 AM   #32
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PLEASE don't use this thread as another platform to complain about general RV quality!

To the OP- we wonder, as others have stated whether you got the full story or just what the dealer wanted to tell you.
But we also don't recommend towing with a full water tank. Are there spigots near where you intend to camp? Can you travel with just a few gallons and then fill up at your destination? That's your best bet.

In my previous trailer the fresh tank was inside the front storage and sat on a pretty solid floor so I was not concerned about a full tank rupturing or somehow falling out of the rig. It would slosh out a good portion of water on a long haul trip. Since it was so easy to reach, I simply put a spring clamp on the over flow/vent hose on those rare occasions we wanted to travel with a full tank.


My current rig has the tank under the floor but hidden by the belly skin so I'm not going to haul with anything resembling a full tank until or unless I've removed the skin and inspected the tank for adequate support. I can only remember 1 or 2 times EVER when we camped and truly needed to bring water from home or at least from a distance.

Good luck and I hope this is the only wrinkle in your camping experiences!!
Have Fun and Happy Trails!
Dan,
I have to respectfully disagree with a few of your statements.

To make the generalization that we ALL on this forum suggest not towing with a full water tank is unfair. I certainly have never said that as I tow with a full tank lots of times and have done so with many, many units throughout the years.

Yes, there is cause for some concern on SOME of these newer units as we've certainly read the reports here where fresh water tanks have fallen out going down the road. (or even before hitting the road) but I suspect there are way more that don't have this problem. If you decide to not do so until you inspect you rig that is fine and probably a smart move.

As to only camping 1 - 2 times ever, having to bring water from home... well that hasn't been my experience in 40+ years of camping either.

Yes, there are places we've taken our own water when there might have been somewhere to get some but I'm not taking that chance in an unknown situation when I can take water from my home system which I trust. Also, there are plenty of places we camp where getting water simply isn't available, let alone convenient.

If anyone has purchased a unit that is advertised as not meant to carry water when traveling, then I suggest you look into another type unit. Traveling to wherever one wants to land, is what RVing is all about. If your rig limits your ability to do this, (for whatever reason) it is time to look elsewhere.

None of this meant to be disrespectful... just another point of view.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:23 AM   #33
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I agree with you 5picker. We dry camp 80% of the time. If we could not travel with a full tank of water there would be no reason for us to have an RV with a water system. Might as well go back to camping in a pickup shell, would certainly be less headaches
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:40 AM   #34
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I didn't mean no one should travel with a full tank! If you have adequate support under your tank great!
I do think it's prudent to check.
Also a solution to the OPs problem might be as simple as a spring clamp on the vent hose while traveling.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:51 AM   #35
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Is the phrase "self contained" not applicable to camping nowadays?
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:38 AM   #36
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I Love my Forrest River Cedar Creek, and I travel with 5 to 10 gal of fresh water. I Never Dry camp
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:46 AM   #37
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Well I'll throw my 4 cents into the ring. Over the past 37 years we have owned 5 trailers. 2 5ers and 3 TTs. I have carried water in all of them for hundreds of miles getting to the spot where we dry camp. Not one of them failed to hold the water and the tanks never dropped out of any of them. As others have said, if you don't want to go through the hassle of being told It's on you, then put a valve on the end of the tube. It's a sad day when you spend thousands of dollars on a trailer or MH and things like this happen.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:15 PM   #38
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I had the same problem, just put a shut off value at the end of the drain hose. Dont forget to open it on arrival.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:10 PM   #39
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I'm not in agreement with people suggesting a Mickey Mouse fix like a valve. I get it, it's cheap and quick. But forget to open that valve and you'll have a collapsed and more than likely cracked imploded tank.
You read all the time of mistakes on here like dropping the 5er on the bed rails because it wasn't hitched or leaving the TV antenna up while pulling away ect... now they need to remember to open a valve?
It's not hard to run the $5 of vynl tubing to the proper vent along side the fill like it should of been done in the first place by Forest River. Keep it simple and save yourself aggravation later. Just my opinion of course.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Dan,
I have to respectfully disagree with a few of your statements.

To make the generalization that we ALL on this forum suggest not towing with a full water tank is unfair. I certainly have never said that as I tow with a full tank lots of times and have done so with many, many units throughout the years.

Yes, there is cause for some concern on SOME of these newer units as we've certainly read the reports here where fresh water tanks have fallen out going down the road. (or even before hitting the road) but I suspect there are way more that don't have this problem. If you decide to not do so until you inspect you rig that is fine and probably a smart move.

As to only camping 1 - 2 times ever, having to bring water from home... well that hasn't been my experience in 40+ years of camping either.

Yes, there are places we've taken our own water when there might have been somewhere to get some but I'm not taking that chance in an unknown situation when I can take water from my home system which I trust. Also, there are plenty of places we camp where getting water simply isn't available, let alone convenient.

If anyone has purchased a unit that is advertised as not meant to carry water when traveling, then I suggest you look into another type unit. Traveling to wherever one wants to land, is what RVing is all about. If your rig limits your ability to do this, (for whatever reason) it is time to look elsewhere.

None of this meant to be disrespectful... just another point of view.
"If anyone has purchased a unit that is advertised as not meant to carry water when traveling, then I suggest you look into another type unit. Traveling to wherever one wants to land, is what RVing is all about. If your rig limits your ability to do this, (for whatever reason) it is time to look elsewhere."

If any builder cannot afford $3 to properly carry the stated capacity they should reduce the capacity to 3 - 5 gallons. Doubtful they would sell many but better than have a buyer dragging a tank down the road to save a few dollars and put silly statements in fine print or print few read until there is a problem.
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