Generator + A/C = Problems

[TURBS]

Try turning fan to on with ac off then turn a/c on.

I know it's under warranty but maybe we can get you going.

I have a mod that starts the a/c compressor first then 15 seconds later starts the fan.
Works well for smaller gennies.

TURBS.

[ShooterGuy]

What typically happens is that the fan turns on then after about 15 seconds the compressor kicks on. But I'll try it when I'm back from our walk.

[ShooterGuy]

Originally Posted by TURBS

Try turning fan to on with ac off then turn a/c on.

I know it's under warranty but maybe we can get you going.

I have a mod that starts the a/c compressor first then 15 seconds later starts the fan.
Works well for smaller gennies.

TURBS.

Well... This did not work. I'll just have to warranty service it I suppose. Good thing it's not really hot out.

[proggod]

Originally Posted by ShooterGuy

Well... This did not work. I'll just have to warranty service it I suppose. Good thing it's not really hot out.

You may want to get the mod which installs a capacitor for cold starts. Should help alot, your AC may use 30amps on start, but then only 10amps after that. That would make it only use 10amps all the time.

[TURBS]

a doemetic a/c requires approximately 18-19 amps to start and 12-14 running.

The capacitor is normally referred to as a "hard" start capacitor not cold start.

That gennie should be more then capable of running the a/c and other appliances.

Originally Posted by proggod

You may want to get the mod which installs a capacitor for cold starts. Should help alot, your AC may use 30amps on start, but then only 10amps after that. That would make it only use 10amps all the time.

TURBS.

[B and B]

What fuel does the generator use? Found it Gas according to the picture.

[TURBS]

The generator has an issue either the case.
Without knowing voltage and amps it's a crap shoot.



TURBS.

[B and B]

The Model Number on the Picture is 120 V 33.3 amps but the Breaker is 30 amps so that is max draw if the breaker is 100% capable, none are I would say 90% max load on the breaker.

If the 15 K Acon is started with the hot water heater the breaker would blow.

[proggod]

Originally Posted by TURBS

a doemetic a/c requires approximately 18-19 amps to start and 12-14 running.

The capacitor is normally referred to as a "hard" start capacitor not cold start.

That gennie should be more then capable of running the a/c and other appliances.



TURBS.

What he said..

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by B and B

The Model Number on the Picture is 120 V 33.3 amps but the Breaker is 30 amps so that is max draw if the breaker is 100% capable, none are I would say 90% max load on the breaker.

If the 15 K Acon is started with the hot water heater the breaker would blow.

Brian my gennie is 30 amps and has a 30 amp breaker.
I can run a/c, HW heater and converter without popping breaker.

TURBS.

[proggod]

Also you don't HAVE to get warranty work where you bought it, call around and find someone else that will do warranty repairs that doesn't take so long..

[B and B]

Originally Posted by TURBS

Brian my gennie is 30 amps and has a 30 amp breaker.
I can run a/c, HW heater and converter without popping breaker.

TURBS.

Need numbers, as per your post...

OP....One thing that would tell the story is shore power. Does that work?

[SKnight]

Check the oil level. If it's marginal then when it's running at a low engine speed it's fine. But load it and as the engine revs up the oil gets slung around the crankcase effectively lowering the level in the sump which could be tripping the oil level sensor and shutting the engine off.

If you're overloading it then it should lug down and kick the breaker. But it just shutting down when loaded tells me a safety alert is kicking in, oil level is the easiest to check.

And it doesn't have to be "Low" to trip the sensor. My Honda can be halfway down the crosshatch on the stick and trip the level alert.

[ShooterGuy]

Originally Posted by SKnight

Check the oil level. If it's marginal then when it's running at a low engine speed it's fine. But load it and as the engine revs up the oil gets slung around the crankcase effectively lowering the level in the sump which could be tripping the oil level sensor and shutting the engine off.

If you're overloading it then it should lug down and kick the breaker. But it just shutting down when loaded tells me a safety alert is kicking in, oil level is the easiest to check.

And it doesn't have to be "Low" to trip the sensor. My Honda can be halfway down the crosshatch on the stick and trip the level alert.

I did check the oil level. It's good and looks brand new.

[B and B]

Wish I was on the Beach its 19 F here now and with windchill -2 F. Beach=Nice.

I hope you find out the issue. Ones question, have you ever run it on Shore Power?

[ShooterGuy]

Originally Posted by B and B

Wish I was on the Beach its 19 F here now and with windchill -2 F. Beach=Nice.

I hope you find out the issue. Ones question, have you ever run it on Shore Power?

Yes. We have. Our first time taking it out we ran the ac on shore power without issue.

[racerx]

Have a generator similar to yours at work on a hazmat trailer. It has a switch that you have to use when placing generator under a load. It is located right in front with the cover off. Maybe yours has one also.


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[TURBS]

Originally Posted by racerx

Have a generator similar to yours at work on a hazmat trailer. It has a switch that you have to use when placing generator under a load. It is located right in front with the cover off. Maybe yours has one also.


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And what's the switch do?

TURBS.

[racerx]

It is a 30 amp breaker switch that is off to start and run generator to warm up or periodic runs.Than switch to place under load.


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[TURBS]

Originally Posted by racerx

It is a 30 amp breaker switch that is off to start and run generator to warm up or periodic runs.Than switch to place under load.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Interesting!

TURBS.