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Old 06-10-2021, 08:08 PM   #21
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#2 modified will work well and is cheap. After that, stop by your local excavation company and ask for a used track loader skid. (The rubber kind) cut it in two and park your tires on each half. Rubber on rubber is better than rubber on anything. Keeps moisture away and provides a firm pad for tires.
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Old 06-10-2021, 11:34 PM   #22
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I’d use 1” decorative rock, it’s called Wasatch grey. The 3/4 minus is a bit too small. That’s your regular construction rock. Just lay down green house covering weed blocker , it’s like a tarp almost. Then 2” of the 1” rock. Pick it up at HD , $80 a roll. 8’ x100’
Most any rock will do, just make sure it’s not anything smooth. You want the hard cut rock so it packs. Yes the weeds will not grow through but the problem you’ll have is dirt and seeds blowing in and landing on top, then sprouting. Try to get a clean washed rock to avoid the rock dust which inhibits weed growth in the rock.
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Old 06-10-2021, 11:41 PM   #23
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We have 4” of 3/4 aggregate and it’s held up great.

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Old 06-11-2021, 07:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrock View Post
You want what is called 3/4 minus materiel. Actually any good Sand and Gravel yard can help you out better than this bunch of punters, my self included. Sometimes they will have some non spec materiel at a lower price. Non spec being materiel that didn't meet specifications fr a government road job. It's all about the ratio of fines and rock.
Above is good advice. Some years ago when living on a farm the driveway and yard where vehicle were driven was 'impossible' in the spring thaw and/or summer rains.

I had 3/4" crushed granite brought in - leveled it and in the 15 years since, it's like a concrete surface --- well almost. 3/4" crushed will pack solid so have a super firm driving surface.
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Old 06-11-2021, 11:08 AM   #25
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Gravel Question

A good surface to drive on is like building a building to last. It begins with the foundation. First task is an evaluation of your existing conditions. What type of soils are in place? Clay, loams, rock, or whatever. This will determine water percolation. Next comes gradient. First lesson I learned in Landscape Architecture is that water runs downhill. Is the terrain relatively flat or is there side drainage to take the water off? Your existing conditions will determine how much grading is necessary to get rid of water and how many courses of what type of material you need to lay down. Wet, soggy existing conditions may require a deep base of large rocks, followed by crushed gravel ranging from one inch to 3/4 inch, and then finishing with what we in New Mexico call Base Course. The base course will compact and provide a nice driving surface because it has small gravel mixed with fines which help with the compaction. Just remember the water has to go somewhere. You will be happiest if you take the time up front to study the conditions and spend the money to do it right the first time. Best wishes.
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Old 06-12-2021, 01:39 PM   #26
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Parking Spot

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Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier View Post
I'll ask the asphalt company when they come to put the second layer down. Maybe they can work me a good deal with something.
Why do anything? Why not just grass the area around your paved parking spot? If I was set on not having grass and was having a parking spot paved, I would go ahead and have asphalt paved over the whole area of concern. Grass, Asphalt or Concrete would be better than any gravel mess that you might do over the long run..
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