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Old 08-17-2020, 07:12 PM   #21
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sorry a little more.
The added benefit of Residential is if you do a mix of RV Parks/Dry you have a great big cold fridge when plugged in to RV plug.

Just manage the dry time and it seems a better option.
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Old 08-17-2020, 07:13 PM   #22
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Our rig's french door Frigidaire residential fridge has 6 years and 75K miles on it. The factory-installed inverter keeps her cold when we are traveling. So far, so good. We had three prior rigs with the small Norcolds. Having the residential unit feels like decadent luxury... You couldn't pay me to go back.
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Old 08-17-2020, 07:27 PM   #23
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Before I bought my Cedar Creek I made sure the Residential would fit through the door with the doors removed. As long as I can pull it out if needed then who cares. So far It has worked perfectly and I have enough battery to run it on inverter for 2 days which would never happen anyway, the genny would come out long before that. We don't boondock ever, always water and elec at a minimum. So for some the Residential is not much of a risk and the RV fridges do not hold as much as a residential, who's kidding who? I've owned numerous RV fridg's at one time or another. So knocking one or the other serves no purpose, they both have their place depending on how the unit will be used, boondocking then yes a RV refer makes much more sense, sitting in an RV park then might as well have the convenience of a residential with water and ice through the door and all that. RV refers have been known to catch fire from time to time and usually end up the RV a total loss. So there are significant benefits and detractors for each, personally since I don't boondock I'd rather have the size, convenience and superior performance of a residential. Folks should buy what meets their RV needs and not listen to all the experts on these forums including Josh the Haylett RV nerd.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:15 AM   #24
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DC Fridge

I sold my two way fridge for $400 and paid $950 delivered for a GE 10CF DC only that fit in the same space and gained 40% more usable space.

Uses about 70ah on a 70 degree day and 90ah on a 90 degree day.
Have 640w solar and 340ah lithium with one more 170ah lithium to be added later for extra buffer.
So much happier than the two way fridge.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:31 AM   #25
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Not to be argumentative, but I cannot see where turning off a residential reefer would affect it in anyway assuming you let it dry out between.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:28 AM   #26
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Not buying it.

I don't agree with Josh. The gas-electric fridges are fire prone, very expensive, and the largest of them would also require the same kind of work to remove. Does he think we're all too stupid to know what a counter-depth fridge is? Please.

Perhaps RV manufacturers ought to adjust their design so the residential fridge can be removed from a door or window... but unless you're interested in boondocking, residential fridges are so much better. More space, better temp control, decent ice makers, large freezers.

I had to live in my Georgetown for nearly a year, waiting for a house to be built in Texas, and while we were there the Covid thing hit. If I would've had to rely on a tiny fridge with a tiny freezer during that mess it would've been so much worse. Remember how things were with grocery shopping? We were able to stock up and not go as often.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:35 AM   #27
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In any RV I want the propane refrigerator. I want a unit to work while traveling and also if I end up at a site without electricity. Some sites are even better than ones with electricity. A 12v compressor unit that kills the battery in one day doesn't do it for me. Solar - can't trust it will charge enough on cloudy days, a day or two of rain, etc. I've had a week without electricity at my house and the propane refrigerator just kept on working.

Residential refrigerator is a beast to get through the door, and many repair people won't touch them. Quite frankly the smaller propane refrigerator does the job with less room taken. I will acknowledge an RV parked seasonal used almost like a park model probably makes sense. Camping of less than a week I have never lacked with the propane refrigerator size.
Why do so many people think residential fridges won't run while driving the rig? That's just wrong. As long as the engine is running, so is the fridge. All of these rigs have inverters.
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:43 AM   #28
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Exactly
Last week I drove 8 hours trips, twice, with breaks (truck not running) during each trip, and my residential Whirlpool side by side ran the whole time, plus my 2 average sized deep cycle RV batteries were full at arrival.
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Old 08-18-2020, 12:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by jaudet71 View Post
I sold my two way fridge for $400 and paid $950 delivered for a GE 10CF DC only that fit in the same space and gained 40% more usable space.
What model was your original fridge model in your Georgetown?

Our Georgetown has a 12 cubic foot Norcold 1210 in a slide. The ones not in a slide are 18 cubic feet.

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Old 08-18-2020, 12:23 PM   #30
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Second comment on this topic. If you are shopping rvs with residential refrigerator make sure you have a tape measure. Check rv door and refrigerator depth w/o doors attached. If it won't fit run away, there are probably other items they did not properly design for that rv. I am alot smarter after four rv purchases.
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Old 08-18-2020, 04:33 PM   #31
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Josh is good at coming up with click-bait articles. Never had one in all our years of camping. Got one in this 5er. Measured door to make sure it could get it out if it died. Well it's worked fine in 2-1/2 yrs of fulltime. We run it while driving. It actually gets food cooler than when you place it in. You can buy meat and freeze it! What! If I ever need that door measurement, it will be to get another res fridge! They are cheap. They work. Talk to folks that have HAD both. It's like most things. People that have had one or the other are experts in their mind. Those that have had both get a lot more cred in my humble opinion. Oh and we dry camp often. Run genny every other day. 4 battleborns.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:22 PM   #32
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I've had 2 RV's (TT and 5th wheel) with Dometic absorption refrigs that worked fine. Then a Motorhome with a 2 door Norcold that I lost a lot of food with because of its 49 hour box FIN defrost cycle that basically shut the unit for 5 hours. I finally gave up on the Norcold and replaced it with a 10.7 cu.ft. Whirlpool Residential that I bought from Lowes for $700. It was the best DYI (photos of DYI) 've done. That refrig worked great.

When we downsized to our current Vibe 21BH one of our requirements was to have a 'residential style' refrig. The Vibe had an Everchill residential refrig with a 12v compressor. The Everchill is the same size as the Whirlpool we had in our motorhome and has worked great for us.

IF my type of travel was often off-grid, boondocking, I would favor an absorption style refrig, but I am always on-grid except for traveling from one destination to the next. I added a second house battery to the Vibe and while I am towing my Truck, thru the charge wire, assists keeping the batteries charged.

So I'll stick with a residential refrig, as it works well with our style of travel.
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Old 08-18-2020, 09:38 PM   #33
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Ever since I saw the awning video, I haven't given a ratsass what he thinks.


I am in the planning stages of replacing my Dometic with a residential.


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Old 08-18-2020, 10:18 PM   #34
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Then a Motorhome with a 2 door Norcold that I lost a lot of food with because of its 49 hour box FIN defrost cycle that basically shut the unit for 5 hours
May I ask exactly how that caused the food loss? I know mine does that, shutting off the cooling unit every 49 hours until the fridge increases to 42 (and the freezer simultaneously increases to the mid-20's) but it always catches up.

I've gotten in the habit of turning the fridge off for a minute about 10 PM on our first night out so the defrost cycle runs overnight instead of in the heat of the day.

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Old 08-18-2020, 10:49 PM   #35
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May I ask exactly how that caused the food loss? I know mine does that, shutting off the cooling unit every 49 hours until the fridge increases to 42 (and the freezer simultaneously increases to the mid-20's) but it always catches up.

I've gotten in the habit of turning the fridge off for a minute about 10 PM on our first night out so the defrost cycle runs overnight instead of in the heat of the day.

Ray
I tested mine over at 4 day period, logging the FIN temp, the Box Temp and Freezer. My FIN temp was normally 17-19 degrees, as it went into its defrost the FIM temp raised to 35 degrees until it started to drop again, it needs to get above 32 degrees to allow the frost/ice to melt off the FINs. The refrig took 5 hours for the fin temp to go from 17 to 35 and back to 17. The few times I lost food the defrost cycle occurred during the day (lunch time) and the box temp was above 50 degrees for many hours. Absorption refrigs just do not recover very fast.

After I learned about the 49 hour defrost cycle I started killing the 12v to the refrig at night to reset the timer so it would defrost at night just as you do. But at 49 hours the defrost cycle creeps and eventually it occurs during the day (why 49 hours, why not 48 so it wouldn't creep - stupid design). On long trips (40-65 days) I had to keep doing resets to keep the defrost cycles at night and it got old playing that reset game. After the swap, now I just turned it on (it was cold in about 4 hours) and let it run and no longer had to play the reset the timer gave.

The residential was bigger (inside) and always maintained a consistent temp and Ice Cream is cold/frozen
-Russ
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Old 08-18-2020, 11:54 PM   #36
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OK, thanks. That makes sense.

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Old 08-19-2020, 11:20 AM   #37
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I think the use of a RV fridge VS a residential fridge depends on how you travel and camp! I am on my third 5er in the last 14 years. The first two 5ers had the RV fridge and our last unit a Cedar Creek has the residential fridge. Since we do not boon dock spending our time in full hook-ups with 50 AMP service sites. The residential fridge meets our needs and preforms will. The residential fridge will keep food colder and cold longer without power of any type compared to an RV fridge. The residential fridge is better insulated.

The first units which had either a Dometic or a Norcold RV fridge both had issues with them over the years of use. Most of the time the freezer would not keep items frozen or the fridge would not cool correctly. We did everything we could to make them work correctly such as cleaning the fins, place battery operated fans inside and trying to keep the fridge side of the RV in the shade.

The RV fridge may work for some, but I like my ice cream chilled correctly and the food in the fridge side cold as the food should be.
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Old 08-24-2020, 08:24 AM   #38
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Did you happen to see his awning video where he claims operating the awning at full speed ruins the gas shocks? I guess he does the same when operating the hatch of his car.


Don't get me started.....I tried to have a technical conversation with him....you know, one mechanical engineer to another, but he didn't want to participate in this absolute farce that he was trying to spread.

"A gas spring is kinda like a Super Soaker, you have to pause midway through to let is catch up drawing in air"

I tried to explain to him that they are sealed and operate off the principle of a piston and bypass valve to control rate of stroke. I even suggested that he take one out of the package, fully compress it by hand and watch as it magically extends at a linear rate of motion.....also asked if he paused his automotive shocks mid way through a stroke, or office chair, or vehicle hood/hatch. Then I simply asked for technical backup for his statement from a gas spring manufacturer....like any on the planet.....and crickets
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Old 08-24-2020, 02:06 PM   #39
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My first 5th Wheel with Residential Refrigerator. Cardinal came with top of line inverter and 4 batteries. I've never had a problem even boondocking. Run an inverter generator when boondocking. I leave the RV for a day come back and it goes into a low power state. I just run the Gen again and its good. I have just a two door model no fancy ice maker and buttons. Works very well for me. I've had problems with propane models before. Sensor,Module twice and inability to keep cold in PHX during summer. My Residential no problem..
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Old 08-24-2020, 07:24 PM   #40
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My first 5th Wheel with Residential Refrigerator. Cardinal came with top of line inverter and 4 batteries. I've never had a problem even boondocking. Run an inverter generator when boondocking. I leave the RV for a day come back and it goes into a low power state. I just run the Gen again and its good. I have just a two door model no fancy ice maker and buttons. Works very well for me. I've had problems with propane models before. Sensor,Module twice and inability to keep cold in PHX during summer. My Residential no problem..
Same with us. Our 2013 Cedar Creek has residential fridge, 4 6 volt batteries and inverter. I even added a dedicated outlet in the bedroom from the inverter, to power a CPAP machine. When dry camping I just run the generator to top off the batteries for a bit in the evening. I would never look back at a unit with a RV fridge again. And we have had plenty.
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