Help-Backing into an inclined driveway

AK_Kamper · 05-12-2019, 02:30 PM

New to Travel Trailers
Travel Trailer: 2015 Forest River-Salem Cruise Lite-272QBXL | ~33' Long
Tow Vehicle: 2016 Ford F-250 Lariat Quad Cab 4x4 (6.7L)

Known Issues:

+Backing into my driveway

-There's a bit of downward incline approaching the driveway, then a dip where the driveway meets the road, and then an upward incline from the road to the house causing the trailer to bottom-out/drag in the driveway. One side of the driveway is worse/more inclined/deeper dip than the other. I'm looking for any advice or solutions to help mitigate this issue. So far, I've read about DIY ramps for the 'dip' area and/or steel rollers/casters mounted on the frame or bumper, but have tried neither so far.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

kenandterry · 05-12-2019, 02:48 PM

There’s no one answer here because you’re the only one who can really see the angle and clearances from your trailer.

The correct solution is to make sure that NO contact from the driveway or roadway is made with the trailer other than with its tires. Steel rollers or casters are for short term occasional contact.

My suggestion is to design whatever it takes to lessen the angle for approach and not have the trailer scrape anywhere.

REL · 05-12-2019, 02:51 PM

Try laying a few 2x6s in the dip between the driveway and the road.

dward51 · 05-12-2019, 03:21 PM

The problem with adding rollers to a trailer rear is it also adds stress to the frame. Especially with a lightweight trailer. Too much stress can flex and damage the frame. It all depends on how much you are dragging as to how much stress/flex is added and if it will be a problem. That's a long trailer though.

20 years ago, I had a Hilo years ago and the rear awning arms hung low (due to the way a Hilo lowers for transport). It did the same thing you describe even though my driveway is really flat, just the normal slope at the street, except mine was the bottom of the awning arm that dragged (not good at all). I ended up pulling in at an angle and cutting into the front yard and then backing into final position in the driveway when I needed to work on the trailer in the driveway. It did not drag pulling in like that, but would if I backed in.

Will your yard let you try something like that?

Iwannacamp · 05-12-2019, 03:31 PM

This may be a stretch as I don’t own a TT....and may be too much trouble. How about a different ball mount(lower to raise back of trailer) when backing in. It would mean swapping mounts before entering the DW.

Canadiancrew · 05-12-2019, 03:36 PM

You may be able to make your backup approach at more than a 45 degree angle until your trailer wheel get onto the driveway and then straighten it out. That works a lot better than a straight in approach but you will need a wider driveway or some space to do that. Our street has a crown and then our driveway rises from the curb at a 6 percent grade and I have no issue. If I back straight in the bumper will hit the driveway and the hitch will hit the crown in the street.

AK_Kamper · 05-12-2019, 04:23 PM

Thanks all! I may try the 45° backup method then straightening it out. I think I may have to lessen the grade with some 2x6s for a straight in approach. Luckily, my driveway is fairly wide enough and I live at the end of a low traffic cul-de-sac so while I'm trying to this thing in the driveway, I'm not blocking my neighbors...I'll just look like a fool! ��

larry2c · 05-12-2019, 05:35 PM

I have a very similar issue with our driveway and TT and I'm still trying to dial it in. I have an F150 and use a WDH when towing. I've found that if I remove the torsion bars before backing into the drive I no longer scrape the drive with the "hoops" on the back of the TT. However, now the bottom of the hitch head drags a little. Strategically placed 2X6's eliminate that but I'd like to get things to the point where I just remove the bars and back in...

AK_Kamper · 05-12-2019, 08:21 PM

The angle method worked perfectly - thanks all for the suggestion!

ken11gray · 05-13-2019, 03:17 PM

I have the same trailer. I have the same problem and at some fuel stations it would also drag the back. I flipped my axles and it hasn't dragged since.

Ken

PenJoe · 05-13-2019, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK_Kamper

Thanks all! I may try the 45° backup method then straightening it out. I think I may have to lessen the grade with some 2x6s for a straight in approach. Luckily, my driveway is fairly wide enough and I live at the end of a low traffic cul-de-sac so while I'm trying to this thing in the driveway, I'm not blocking my neighbors...I'll just look like a fool! ��

You will not be a fool when using caution to accomplish a difficult task. Put your neighbors out of your mind and concentrate on positioning.

Jakieboy · 05-13-2019, 05:35 PM

We had a similar problem years ago with our TT. We salvaged some heavy duty, 3/4-inch plywood slabs big enough to bridge the gap between the road and the driveway to lessen the "dip" and solved the problem. Now we no longer look like "idiots" to our neighbors while backing in our 35-foot fifth wheel!!

Henry Barnes · 05-13-2019, 08:13 PM

I have a FR class C 33". I had to take it out of storage because of cost and have a very steep driveway. What I did was to make 2 ramping system(48" wide out of 2X10) one for each wheel about 3-4 feet apart. Each ramp is made in 5 sections(too heavy to move as one piece) and I move each one with a dolly to the drive edge where it is assembled. It extends into the road about 2/3 feet so as to start the RV ramping up just before the lowest rear part contacts the drive. It sounds like a lot of time but once I did it 2-3 time it got much easier to do. I have some trees I have to get around so I needed to back in straight. May not be the easiest way but it works for me.

Hank

Iwannacamp · 05-13-2019, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakie-Boy

We had a similar problem years ago with our TT. We salvaged some heavy duty, 3/4-inch plywood slabs big enough to bridge the gap between the road and the driveway to lessen the "dip" and solved the problem. Now we no longer look like "idiots" to our neighbors while backing in our 35-foot fifth wheel!!

I ALWAYS look like an idiot to the neighbors.

c3prret · 05-14-2019, 04:09 AM

I live on main 4 lane road and have a inclined driveway. Brought the TT home last yr and scraped the road with the stabilizers. Read someplace about SaveaJack, a mounting plate that allows the stabilizers to be removed while traveling. Haven't used it yet but took 4" from under TT.

nomad297 · 05-14-2019, 05:39 AM

Buying an RV always brings life changes — some more significant than others — buy a new house.

Bruce

jimmoore13 · 05-14-2019, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken11gray

I have the same trailer. I have the same problem and at some fuel stations it would also drag the back. I flipped my axles and it hasn't dragged since.

Ken

X-2. Lift the trailer. If you're dragging bits here, you'll drag them elsewhere. If you ever develop a taste for boondocking, you'll need the clearance. If you have leaf springs, "flip the axles" from on top of the leaves to under the leaves. If you have torsion axles, they make kits to lift the rig. (I have one on my PUP because I was constantly dragging bits when on rough roads getting to boondocking sites.)

If the lift doesn't quite do the job, get a pro to change the driveway intersection with the street. Ramps and boards may work, but your trailer can "fall off" this Rube Goldberg arrangement, and, frankly, it's a pain in the ass to to set this up and tear it down, and store and dig out the "ramps" every trip into and out of the driveway. A paving company could fix this permanently for a reasonable price. A proper driveway approach will also enable you to get out of and into your driveway expediently rather than being a road block while you fiddle with the ramps.

jimmoore13 · 05-14-2019, 12:58 PM

P.S. My paved driveway has two big gouges in it where some moron tried to turn around using my driveway while pulling an equipment trailer. 1000 feet away, there's a huge T intersection where he could have done a 180 without backing, but Nooooo.

dward51 · 05-14-2019, 07:24 PM

One other trick if you encounter a spot where you can't do the back in at an angle trick is to release the tension on your weight distributing bars. This will put more weight on the tongue and make the tow vehicle squat a little at the hitch (1500/150 will squat more than a 3500/350 of course), but it will also lift the rear of the trailer a little more also. Sometimes an inch is all you need.

It depends on what type of WD setup you have as to how you release the tension.

Jakieboy · 05-15-2019, 12:07 AM

dward51 - You've got the right idea. We have had situations when backing into campsites with our TT when the site and the road leading in are out of alignment. Tilted out of kilter, as my Mom would say!

It was almost impossible to disconnect our WDH from Tow Vehicle, until I tried raising the trailer tongue high enough to relieve the stress on the WDH bars, and disconnected them. After disconnecting and pulling tow vehicle clear, we leveled the TT as usual.

If needed, you may need to install blocks under the TT tongue jack to achieve enough height to clear the WDH bars.

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