Help With Steep Driveway

[suztexas]

Got it! Thanks Moose!

[Camp20144]

Originally Posted by suztexas

Thanks for all of you suggestions!

A larger footprint of your blocks as suggested above would greatly increase the stability of your blocks. Narrow bases with tall blocks are easily “pushed” over - unstable.

[suztexas]

Thanks again folks for all of your suggestions. Here is a pic of my new blocks with the rig at 4% unleveled which works just fine for me!
Kind regards,
Suzanne in Texas

[Sunseeker16]

Wouldn't scare me a bit as long as the wheels were securely chocked.

[Boomerweps]

Let’s apply the K.I.S.S. Method.

Just buy a packet of wood door/window shims.
Push in some shims between two flat pieces of wood till the top is level on the tongue platform. Then screw the wood blocks together pinching in the shims.

[suztexas]

Great idea Boomer! Will implement asap. smart. I love the KISS methodology!

[suztexas]

Thanks Sunseeker. I place the chocks up against each wheel then I put the tow vehicle in neutral and very slowly let the truck creep forward until the tires are gently and fully engaged with the chocks, apply parking brake and unhitch.

[ebemis]

Just in case I missed if someone already offered this....

You DO know that before you put the tongue jack down, if you pull the pin the foot insert can be "dropped" several more holes down.... Think erector set.... That foot has at least a half dozen more holes that can provide almost a foot of extra height.

[Papadave]

Originally Posted by ebemis

Just in case I missed if someone already offered this....

You DO know that before you put the tongue jack down, if you pull the pin the foot insert can be "dropped" several more holes down.... Think erector set.... That foot has at least a half dozen more holes that can provide almost a foot of extra height.

I agree with the idea of just extending the drop tube but found that in hurricane country that the crane post flexed to much in high winds. My solution was a large block short crane post and eye bolts epoxied into the concrete either side of the driveway. Straps attached to the breakaway chains kept the tounge down an limited side to side movement. I half expected to see the frame there and the trailer missing after the last hurricane passed through.

[gw1800]

Originally Posted by itat

First, buy these good quality solid rubber chocks from Harbour Freight (if you don't already have these).

Attachment 285151
https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-...ock-96479.html

Here's a picture of my old Rockwood Roo on my steep driveway. I got the tree stump from the previous owner. Luckily it was cut such that the two sides weren't exactly parallel and I was able to set it to get the top surface fairly level. Using the wheel on the tongue jack avoided any torquing of the jack. Of course, the Roo had two axles and I had chocks on all 4 wheels. The boards under the C jacks (Stabilizers) were made from 2x10 boards and all screwed together so they wouldn't slip. In order to get the jack on the stump, I used the tongue jack to lift it up as high as it would go and then rested the A frame on axle stands while I raised the jack foot high enough to get the stump under it.

Those are nice heavy chocks. However, they may not fit well on all tires. I made a set of chocks from treated lumber. screwed four pieces together then traced the tire profile on the wood and cut it with a band saw. Put some heavy rubber pads on the bottom. Fits perfectly.

[catskat]

I have a beveled block for the tongue and ALWAYS put blocks under the front stabilizers and run the rear stabilizers down. Harbor Freight rubber chocks in front of each tire. SAFE, no wiggling, fridge will light, can load for the next trip without shaking, it is not precarious. May look so, but it is stable. Been doing it this way for 15 years, never an issue.

[dsiegler]

I have to park like that on a son's driveway when visiting. The first time while unhooking the truck the A frame jack slipped off the blocks and hit the truck. I was very thankful that neither I nor my grandson was still standing between the trailer and the truck. My trailer had two axles and I only had blocks in front of two tires. I should have had the type that fit between the tires and expand to lock both tires.
If you are using an angled board, put it on the bottom of the stack, so that the whole stack is plumb (90 degrees to gravity.) If you put the angled board on top, the stack will still be 90 degrees to the driveway and downward pressure will be at an unfavorable angle to gravity.
To get that angle place the end of a level even with the uphill side of the wood stack, get it level, draw a line under the level at the downhill side of the level, connect that line to the bottom of the uphill side of the stack, and then either saw that stack or another hunk of wood at that angle.
And as others have said, be careful!

[Midwest Ed]

I have a very similar setup in my driveway but it was compounded when I needed to remove the wheels to replace the tires.

My 20 foot trailer has tandem axels but I still only removed one wheel at a time. As a secondary safety step I drilled 2 holes in the concrete behind the trailer, then installed 1/2 inch anchors. Two ratchet straps were then secured between the anchors and the trailer rear bumper.

With a 4% grade (2.3 Degrees) there will be a maximum of about 400 pounds down-slope force for every 10,000 pounds of trailer (mine is 6,000 lb.), and that is totally ignoring any friction. This force can easily be stabilized with just 1 ratchet strap. I used 2 for more side to side stability in case I lost all 4 wheel chocks. Locate the holes as far to the rear as possible, otherwise pay attention to the "pull out" force on the anchors.

Belt and suspenders I guess?

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by dsiegler

I have to park like that on a son's driveway when visiting. The first time while unhooking the truck the A frame jack slipped off the blocks and hit the truck. I was very thankful that neither I nor my grandson was still standing between the trailer and the truck. My trailer had two axles and I only had blocks in front of two tires. I should have had the type that fit between the tires and expand to lock both tires.
l!

Sounds like you are talking about the "X-Chocks" that you install between the tires. Note that these ARE NOT wheel chocks and should not be used as chocks to hold a trailer in place. They are stabilizers only. You need to use 4 wheel chocks, one for each tire.

Jim M.

[Sicksspeed]

As long as you give it a shake and say" that ain't going nowhere!" You will be fine. Oh, sorry, had to say it. Carry on

[Stevevermont]

Originally Posted by suztexas

Hello, I am new to the forum and a new travel trailer owner. I need help please. I am parked on a steep driveway and the point of contact between my "leveling blocks" and my tongue jack is not flush because I am on the steep driveway. I need to know if it looks ok or if I need to do something try and make the point of contact more flush. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks! BTW I am not sure why one pic uploaded sideways...

Stank Bait is right about level the wood along with the driveway. What scare me the most is your wood block are set up with the width of the driveway for an easy tip over in case the wheel block fail. I would set it length wise of the driveway.
My driveway are like yours. Hope you will enjoy your new camper!

stevevermont

[bob213]

Originally Posted by Midwest Ed

As a secondary safety step I drilled 2 holes in the concrete behind the trailer, then installed 1/2 inch anchors. Two ratchet straps were then secured between the anchors and the trailer rear bumper. [/B]

My BIL lived in a lake community with very steep driveways. This was a common practice to secure their boats on the driveway. But..most hooked to the axle not the bumper.

[Midwest Ed]

Originally Posted by bob213

My BIL lived in a lake community with very steep driveways. This was a common practice to secure their boats on the driveway. But..most hooked to the axle not the bumper.

Indeed, the axle would be more secure and safer especially if the strap tension came close to the bumper rating.

[Bob K4TAX]

One easy solution for a slope, use a piece of 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 about 2 ft to 3 ft long. Lift the downhill end and place a block under it, and slide the block back until the board is level. Add any additional blocks on top of the board if needed. The tongue jack will rest nicely on the blocks in that level arrangement.

And yes, always chock all wheels with the rubber chocks sold by Harbor Freight. Those yellow plastic things will slip on asphalt and concrete surfaces. (I know they have been used for years. But have you ever seen a TT go through the woods, or into the TT on the other side of the campground? It's very exciting!)


Bob