How to fill water heater with water

[rollingporch]

Very new to RVing. Have 2017 FR Sunseeker 24' motorhome.
How do I fill water heater to use while at campground or boondocking?

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

Very new to RVing. Have 2017 FR Sunseeker 24' motorhome.
How do I fill water heater to use while at campground or boondocking?

Campground, make sure the bypass valve is open then connect hose to city water connection-- turn on the faucet.
Boondocking, connect the hose to the spigot then, to the fresh water fill then watch for water pouring out the overfill hose and shut off the faucet and stow the hose. Turn on the pump.

[rollingporch]

Thank you!

[woodyrock1]

If you have city water available connect to it and turn on water. To ensure water is going into the WH I open the water relief valve until water comes out this way you know its full. You may know this already but make sure there is water in WH before hooking to shore power. If the switch for A/C power is on you will fry the heating element.

[rollingporch]

Did not know that, woodyrock1. Thank you

[woodyrock1]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

Did not know that, woodyrock1. Thank you

You are welcome rollingporch. Happy camping.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Schvarak

Campground, make sure the bypass valve is open then connect hose to city water connection-- turn on the faucet.
Boondocking, connect the hose to the spigot then, to the fresh water fill then watch for water pouring out the overfill hose and shut off the faucet and stow the hose. Turn on the pump.

Not sure why you're stating to make sure the bypass valve is OPEN. You want the Bypass valve CLOSED for using the WH; OPEN is for winterizing. (Maybe you're thinking of the 3-way style and open to you means "not in the bypass position?)

Whether you're filling with city water or FW tank, make sure the cold water inlet valve is OPEN and pop the relief valve open until you get water out of it, then close it. You're done.

rollingporch:

See pg 2 of the attached generic plumbing pic for a number of ways the HWH winterization valves (usually referred to generically, but inaccurately when speaking of them as a group, as "bypass valves) are plumbed by the manufacturers. (Note: ALL the options are shown in the normal, not winterized, positions.)

[rollingporch]

Thanks. Very new, and dealer's info was skimpy and I didn't know what to ask. All pics are helpful.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

Thanks. Very new, and dealer's info was skimpy and I didn't know what to ask. All pics are helpful.

Here are some pics of the options I was able to find:

Option 1 is most common:


Option 4 is probably next most common (the hot water check valve is the brass fitting right where it says HOT at the heater):


Option 2A:


Option 3:


The remaining options have been described on this forum; I couldn't find any pics, though.

Here's a pic of the relief valve on the water heater. Lift the bar/handle thing on the top of it and it will open. (Stand back in case it's under pressure and especially if it might be HOT!)

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

Thanks. Very new, and dealer's info was skimpy and I didn't know what to ask. All pics are helpful.

Yes, a lot of dealers don't take the time to fully explain things, and as you stated, "you didn't know what to ask".

The below is a copy and paste, and I usually recommend it to those just starting out. Some of it, you may already know, or may not be applicable to your particular RV. You will be able to filter out what pertains to your situation or not. I would suggest you read the electric threads and energy management first, and then the converter thread. This will help explain your different electrical systems of your RV, and how they operate...as well as what the converter does. The very first link will explain what operates off what system.

You can just peruse at your leisure:

Basic electric:

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

RV Electric

Your very important converter:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Suburban water heater (if applicable to your RV):

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post327988

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1527599

Water Heater bypass/crossover valves:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

And the newest additions to help understand what constitutes a true full cylinder in refilling vs exchanging propane cylinders... as well as how the automatic propane changeover regulator works:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ng-133760.html

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1649595

Also if you ever add a 30 amp outlet at your house, print out the following pdf.. Make sure you or your electrician know that this is a 120 volt outlet ONLY:

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf



Hope this helps and welcome to the forums.

[rollingporch]

OMGosh! What a great answer to my question! Thank you!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

OMGosh! What a great answer to my question! Thank you!

Ha,just wait till you ask about your Tires or EMS! Youroo!!

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Not sure why you're stating to make sure the bypass valve is OPEN. You want the Bypass valve CLOSED for using the WH; OPEN is for winterizing. (Maybe you're thinking of the 3-way style and open to you means "not in the bypass position?)

Whether you're filling with city water or FW tank, make sure the cold water inlet valve is OPEN and pop the relief valve open until you get water out of it, then close it. You're done.

rollingporch:

See pg 2 of the attached generic plumbing pic for a number of ways the HWH winterization valves (usually referred to generically, but inaccurately when speaking of them as a group, as "bypass valves) are plumbed by the manufacturers. (Note: ALL the options are shown in the normal, not winterized, positions.)

I misspoke, sorry. You're right!

[rollingporch]

Originally Posted by youroo

Ha,just wait till you ask about your Tires or EMS! Youroo!!

Hahaha. Help is nice for a change. [emoji3]

[Walholler]

On our new 5th wheel, I connected the trailer to a water supply, turned the water on, went inside and opened the hot water handles on the kitchen and bathroom sinks until I got a continuous flow of water without any air. Then turned the water heater on. Works every time.

[jjuscg]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Yes, a lot of dealers don't take the time to fully explain things, and as you stated, "you didn't know what to ask".

The below is a copy and paste, and I usually recommend it to those just starting out. Some of it, you may already know, or may not be applicable to your particular RV. You will be able to filter out what pertains to your situation or not. I would suggest you read the electric threads and energy management first, and then the converter thread. This will help explain your different electrical systems of your RV, and how they operate...as well as what the converter does. The very first link will explain what operates off what system.

Hope this helps and welcome to the forums.

Very helpful reference links - Thanks wmtire !

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Walholler

On our new 5th wheel, I connected the trailer to a water supply, turned the water on, went inside and opened the hot water handles on the kitchen and bathroom sinks until I got a continuous flow of water without any air. Then turned the water heater on. Works every time.

That works, too; but you usually use a little more water.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Walholler

opened the hot water handles on the kitchen and bathroom sinks until I got a continuous flow of water without any air. Then turned the water heater on. Works every time.

Walholler, the potential problem with this method is that if the water heater tank is still bypassed, you will get cold water out of the hot water taps...but it's coming directly from the cold water bypass/crossover line.

This is why woodyrock1 and rockfordroo correctly stated to verify there is water in the tank by briefly flipping up the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve lever on the face of the water heater tank to confirm there is actually water in the tank..... so a member does not possibly burn up an electric heating element by turning it on with a bypassed tank.

We have seen many new RV's shipped/sold with the water heater in the bypass mode, and a newer member/RV'er may not be aware of the bypass valves or how they function. This is why we never want to suggest they JUST turn on the hot water taps to see if they have water flow..as this won't accurately reflect that the water heater tank has water in it if it's still in the bypass mode. Flipping up the lever on the T&P valve will confirm it though.

Suburban even states to open the T&P valve in their series of instructional videos, we keep at this link:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...es-135977.html

and this one in particular:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJFJjIgNV74&t=11s

Hope this helps

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by rollingporch

Did not know that, woodyrock1. Thank you

Here is one piece of advice that has served me well.

When you are disconnecting your RV, turn OFF the circuit breaker at your panel inside the camper for the WH. Then, when setting up for next trip, before Turning on the WH circuit breaker connect the water and go to any outlet in the camper. Open the hot water and insure you get water. ONLY after doing this go to the circuit breaker and turn it on.

Get into and follow this routine and you will never burn out your electric WH element.

PS, I turn off the Main Breaker in the camper as well and do not turn either on until I have plugged into the campground outlet, checked the voltage and only when everything is OK, do I turn on the main breaker and the WH breaker, in that order.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Here is one piece of advice that has served me well.

When you are disconnecting your RV, turn OFF the circuit breaker at your panel inside the camper for the WH. Then, when setting up for next trip, before Turning on the WH circuit breaker connect the water and go to any outlet in the camper. Open the hot water and insure you get water. ONLY after doing this go to the circuit breaker and turn it on.

Get into and follow this routine and you will never burn out your electric WH element.

PS, I turn off the Main Breaker in the camper as well and do not turn either on until I have plugged into the campground outlet, checked the voltage and only when everything is OK, do I turn on the main breaker and the WH breaker, in that order.

Now you'll start the whole debate over using circuit breakers as switches. I'm getting out the popcorn!