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Old 11-05-2015, 03:48 PM   #21
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In regards to the icemaker, I took an old extension cord and cut off the socket end. I then added two female blade connectors. Once your are pressurizing your system with RV antifreeze, open the refrigerator outdoor panel, remove the connectors to the icemaker solenoid, attach your new cord, then plug it in . This will open up the solenoid, letting the antifreeze flow into the lines. Let it runn until until you have plenty of pink fluid in the ice tray. Unplug, but Leave it hooked up this way. In the spring, plug it in again and run until the water is nice and clear. I still dump the first few rounds of ice until they are all clear.

Of course, this assumes your icemaker is 120 V.

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Old 11-09-2015, 01:02 PM   #22
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Can you winterize by pumping antifreeze through the city water line? My Antifreeze line and water pump don't work ( fresh water didn't work ) but city water works.
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:42 PM   #23
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Winterizing

Spkittrick1, If I'm understanding you, the answer is no. The antifreeze has to be pumped from a source, either out of your fresh water tank, or out of a jug(s) of the stuff using a short hose attached to the water pump. Either way, it's the water pump that sends the antifreeze through the system. No pump, no antifreeze.

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Old 11-09-2015, 01:48 PM   #24
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Can you winterize by pumping antifreeze through the city water line? My Antifreeze line and water pump don't work ( fresh water didn't work ) but city water works.

Actually if you can pump antifreeze into the city water port, that's just fine. It's just that most folks use the internal pump because they don't have an external pump. Find a way to drain your internal pump when draining the lines and tank and maybe exercise it a small bit just to push any last bit of water out of the internal pump itself since you won't be running antifreeze through it as such.
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Old 11-09-2015, 03:27 PM   #25
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check your filter on the internal water pump - may be clogged with saw dust like our 2012 Salem was.
it should pump fine
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:09 PM   #26
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Can you winterize by pumping antifreeze through the city water line? My Antifreeze line and water pump don't work ( fresh water didn't work ) but city water works.
You most certainly can. That is how I winterize my Sunseeker. One thing I do before I run antifreeze through is remove the filter housing and fill it with antifreeze and then replace it. Makes it easier since everything runs through the onboard filter.
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:54 PM   #27
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Thanks I have a blockage from at the antifreeze shutoff valve or the valve is bad either way I can't get water to the pump. The strainer is dry as always so I hope I'm good there. I don't think there's water in the pump. Otherwise I blew the line out and pumped antifreeze through everything so I'm hoping it will make it through a Buffal winter.
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Old 11-11-2015, 08:32 AM   #28
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How to winterize

Good luck!

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Old 11-14-2015, 01:46 PM   #29
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Ok, I have followed the instructions for winterizing. Bypassed the HWH and removed the anode rod. Opened all low point drains until completely empty with no drips. My Solaire 201SS has a bypass at the pump to allow direct feed from the antifreeze containers. Ran all faucets until Pink (hot and cold sides). Kitchen, bathroom and indoor and outdoor shower.


My questions are (1) how do I introduce the antifreeze to the freshwater tank if I bypass the tank during the process? Am I to also put in a gallon or so of antifreeze "manually" in to that tank as well from the fresh water outside connection? I have a hand pump that can do that if needed.


Also, (2) do I need to do the same with the city water linlet and put some antifreeze in that opening as well?


thanks!
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:35 PM   #30
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Winterize

Leatherman, if you drain the fresh water tank, as you did the low point drains, you don't have to put antifreeze in the tank.

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Old 11-14-2015, 05:09 PM   #31
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Excellent, thanks for the info.
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:28 PM   #32
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Hello,

The facts have errors of common sense.

Drain the whole with the low point drains first by gravity. Thats why they are there.

Make sure you FW tank is empty as well.

Remove anode, water filter bypass HW tank, turn on winterizing valve

Then if you must use air with oil mixed in to pressure blow out your lines use 30 psi. 60 psi will blow the plastic facets apart.

I use antifreeze, pretty cheap insurance. use the big 2.5 gallon jug just to make sure!

Make sure you press in the city water spigot to get rid of any water there

Also crack open the HW tank to remove last bit of water on the other side of the valve

If you have a hose flusher on the Toilet run Antifreeze threw this as well.

Black tank rinse needs to be winterized as well, I find the vacuum breaker does a good job of draining the feed side. The other side drains on its own in my unit

Don't forget to make sure some antifreeze is sitting on the GW and BW tanks valves so they don't dry out
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:05 PM   #33
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After winterizing boats I have owned over the years winterizing our very first RV was a piece of cake. I do not use an air compressor. Personal preference is to use antifreeze.

I drain the water out of the water heater, open the low point drains to drain water out of the lines and open the valve to drain the fresh water tank. When the water is drained I close the valves. Turn the handles to bypass the fresh water and hot water tanks.

I have a 5 gallon container I used for winterizing my previous boats. I put 4 gallons of antifreeze in it and put the siphon hose in it. I know 4 gallons is more than I need but when I use to pay anywhere from $250 to $300 a year to winterize my boat $10 for antifreeze is not so bad.

So I don't forget to winterize the outside shower I use that to pump antifreeze through the system. I connect the hose of the shower to the city water connection. I turn on the water pump and start opening all the faucets. Run antifreeze until comes out good and pink. The more antifreeze less diluted with water. I flush the toilet to run antifreeze through it.

I then go outside and connect the shower hose to the black water flush to get antifreeze there also. I then open the low point drains until antifreeze comes out. Close the valves again and turn the pump off. I pour what is left in drains and what is left I pour down the toilet leaving a little in the toilet to keep the seal lubricated.

My DW cleans the antifreeze out of the sinks and shower so they don't get stained. Done until next year.
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:42 PM   #34
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Not sure about your pressure rating. Here's a cheap ball valve from the web. The only pressure relief device on an RV is set for 125 psi. Lots of folks would come home to wet carpet if fittings failed at 60psi.
"
● Thermoplastic design eliminates process and atmospheric corrosion.
● Pressure rated up to 150 psi, non-shock water at 73o F
● Meets ASTM dimensions for Socket (D-2466) &
Thread (D-2464 )
● Sch 40 wall thickness
● Bi-directional: can be installed in either direction.
● Individually Bar-coded


1⁄2 - 2"
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:35 PM   #35
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Then if you must use air with oil mixed in to pressure blow out your lines use 30 psi.
I don't understand this part.
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:00 PM   #36
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Key points: (1) no oil; (2) no oil!


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Old 11-19-2015, 11:06 AM   #37
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I don't understand this part.
I guess he never heard of an oil-less compressor.

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Old 11-19-2015, 11:26 AM   #38
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I guess he never heard of an oil-less compressor.

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Or... an oil/water separator for piston compressors.



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Old 11-20-2015, 07:08 AM   #39
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Here is a link to a video of winterizing my Sunseeker. Doing a travel trailer should be very similar. Hope it helps.

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Old 11-21-2015, 11:44 AM   #40
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replacing antifreeze in traps

Just wondering if its needed to replace some of the pink stuff put in the traps during the winter. Does it evaporate out?? Dry out?? The RV is in a storage lot a few miles away. We blew out the lines and put antifreeze in the traps and toilet. Just wondered if it needed "refreshing" during the winter.

Thanks for the information.
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