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11-29-2022, 06:59 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNHIPP
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I have the 12/3 cable from the same company but only needed 15ft
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12-01-2022, 11:53 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Western New York State
Posts: 1,943
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Good idea to sneak an extension cord past slide-out seals, of course, if the OP has a slide-out in his rig.
__________________
sherman12 and The Fabulous Miss Barb
2014 SportsCoach Cross Country 360DL DP
Former 2011 Georgetown 330TS
Kia Sportage on MasterTow Dolly
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12-06-2022, 11:33 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc99
My camper is permanently set up and I recently bought a 1500w infrared heater because propane is ridiculous now. My RV is 30A so it will trip the breakers after a while. Im guessing its the electric water heater and such just overloads it.
On the campsite pedestal there is the normal hookup for the RV (30A),A 50a and two extra GFI 110 plugins. My question is, can I run a outdoor grade drop cord into my RV from the 110 pedestal plug and use that to power my infrared heater?
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You need to install a separate 15 amp breaker in your power panel, the install a plug from that breaker to where you want the heater. All your 110 volt plugs are connected to one or two breakers, so you always share a circuit with other appliances, therefore over taxing those breakers. You can't run a toaster and coffee pot at the same time on the same 15 amp circuit.
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12-06-2022, 01:04 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Umm...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
The OP was asking about using an extension cord from the pedestal as an extra circuit.
There was no mention of the wires within the R/V being any different than yours.
But... on a slightly different note, yet related to your comment... every R/V I've seen with a slide uses stranded SO cord (because of movement) to feed any outlets in the slide so yes, there is effectively extension cord wiring in R/Vs.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Forest River Forums mobile app
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That flexible cable is available in AWG 12, the same gauge as the AWG 12 solid wiring commonly used in residential and RV 20 amp circuits. There's nothing flimsy or underrated about AWG 12 SO flexible cord.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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12-06-2022, 01:07 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcape
You need to install a separate 15 amp breaker in your power panel, the install a plug from that breaker to where you want the heater. All your 110 volt plugs are connected to one or two breakers, so you always share a circuit with other appliances, therefore over taxing those breakers. You can't run a toaster and coffee pot at the same time on the same 15 amp circuit.
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Why? Easier to just use the cord for the heater. The only hard part is figuring out how to get it into the RV.
Many of the folks who have added a second air conditioner to a 30-amp RV do this. They actually add an exterior plug (with the standard 15/20 amp shape) on the outside, with a short run of NM cable to a new interior outlet for the air conditioner.
There's no reason to run it through the breaker panel.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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12-06-2022, 02:05 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 3,504
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something like this may help....
just as an example .............. not confirming this is the one to buy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095H6RJ8Z...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
__________________
Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
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12-06-2022, 03:18 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Looks reasonable
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy
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Looks reasonable to me.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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12-07-2022, 03:36 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
Why? Easier to just use the cord for the heater. The only hard part is figuring out how to get it into the RV.
Many of the folks who have added a second air conditioner to a 30-amp RV do this. They actually add an exterior plug (with the standard 15/20 amp shape) on the outside, with a short run of NM cable to a new interior outlet for the air conditioner.
There's no reason to run it through the breaker panel.
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What I wound up doing was going in the same panel as my normal hookup wire. Just enough room for the drop cord without modifying the plastic cover. It comes out into an open space under my pantry where the outside shower lines are I simply drilled a small hole right in the corner and cut the edge for the cable (drop cord) to pass through. When Im done using it I can simply push the excess cord back into the cavity and only the plug end is sticking out. Thanks for you advice
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