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11-02-2021, 06:02 AM
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#21
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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That's the problem, when I connect it to the truck the front end is so low I could barely get my Anderson blocks under the jacks and they're only about 8" tall...
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11-02-2021, 06:15 AM
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#22
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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That's the problem, how do I get the front jacks off the ground high enough to put more blocks under the jacks??When I get it connected to the truck, the front end drops so low that I could barely get my Anderson blocks under them and they're only about 8" tall...
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11-02-2021, 06:37 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurse1nicole
That's the problem, how do I get the front jacks off the ground high enough to put more blocks under the jacks??When I get it connected to the truck, the front end drops so low that I could barely get my Anderson blocks under them and they're only about 8" tall...
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I take it you do not have air bags on your truck? and it squats quite a bit?
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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11-02-2021, 07:08 AM
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#24
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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The site is sloped so much that the back end is way higher than the front. My truck squats a little bit.
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11-02-2021, 07:10 AM
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#25
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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Do you think driving the back end of the truck up onto blocks before disconnecting would raise the front end of the trailer enough to put more blocks under the jacks??
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11-02-2021, 07:18 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurse1nicole
Do you think driving the back end of the truck up onto blocks before disconnecting would raise the front end of the trailer enough to put more blocks under the jacks??
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It will raise the front of the camper the same amount as the height of those blocks, so yes, but keep in mind you will probably have to do the same when you hook up to leave that site.
Maybe the best solution is:
1. Move to another site when one comes available
2. learn to live with the wiggle when you are walking, after all, it is not a house built on a concrete slab.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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11-02-2021, 08:04 AM
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#27
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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Another question, could I stack cinder blocks/boards under the frame near the front end, raise the front jacks, place more blocks under them, remove the cinder blocks and then relevel the rv??
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11-02-2021, 09:33 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurse1nicole
Another question, could I stack cinder blocks/boards under the frame near the front end, raise the front jacks, place more blocks under them, remove the cinder blocks and then relevel the rv??
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That would definitely work. The considerations are safety and making sure you are resting the camper on a solid frame area. A few years ago I was breaking camp and found that my truck couldn't get under the kingpin of the hitch. The front end of the camper had settled just an inch or so, and the truck had risen just a little because I had unloaded firewood from the bed. I did exactly what you suggest. Also, I had to tow my truck and camper once, and the wrecker did the same thing.
__________________
2011 Sabre Silhouette 260BHS
2017 F-350 XLT CC DRW 6.7L
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11-02-2021, 12:20 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 65
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DouglasReid has it: you will need more blocks for the front jacks and will need to hook up to the truck again to raise the jacks and add blocks.
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11-02-2021, 02:44 PM
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#30
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nurse1nicole
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 10
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Success!
I was able to get more blocks under the front jacks! With a little help from the park owner and a friendly park neighbor, we scrounged up some cinder blocks, stacked them under the frame near the front end, then retracted the front jacks, placing more cinder blocks and wood under them! Relevled the rv and TA DA!! The rv is stable, level and no more wobbling! Thanks for all the information! I hope this helps others!!
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11-02-2021, 03:19 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 383
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Nice job! That certainly looks substantial. It sounds like you're better satisfied with your site now. One nice benefit I've found when my camper is nose-high, is that I am less prone to skin my noggin around the hitch.
__________________
2011 Sabre Silhouette 260BHS
2017 F-350 XLT CC DRW 6.7L
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11-02-2021, 09:26 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,079
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Im VERY glad that worked for ya.
You are just going to have to do that same process in reverse when you leave that park.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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11-08-2021, 07:22 PM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 44
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These are helpful for sure but finding the most level spot possible is the thing to do.
https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...19-950600.html
__________________
2021 Flagstaff 528RWS
2020 GMC 2500HD Diesel
2019 Labrador Retriever
1983 Wife
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11-08-2021, 07:26 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurse1nicole
A little help needed! I have a 42 ft fifth wheel and just moved to a new rv park. I will be here for at least the next 3 months. There is no other site available now. I am parked on a very steep incline and my front jacks are fully extended. I am level but the front end is wobbly and I don't like it. Please let me know what would be the easiest way to relevel to get the front jacks more stable! Thanks!
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Put more leveling blocks under jacks so the jacks themselves are not extended so far. Also, a tri-pod on the pin box would help and that would take some of the weight off the front jacks.
These two things have always solved the issue for me. I live in my RV for about 6 months a year boondocking 99% of the time, and don’t travel without a tri-pod.
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11-08-2021, 07:44 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 24
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I have the the automated leveling system and I was in the same situation.the only way I could level the camper was to put it in manual mode .after I was back home I had to recalibrate my zero settings 🤞🏼
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11-08-2021, 07:45 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 24
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Sorry didn’t notice the old post
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11-08-2021, 07:46 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe
Just a thought, but could the camper be turned 180 and face the opposite direction. It is difficult to see from the pictures, are the wheels chocked?
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I like penjoes suggestion. May result in more hose and wire to services but could wind up being much more stable. If you had to do so you could then be adding blocks under the wheels instead.
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11-08-2021, 09:26 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Clovis CA.
Posts: 405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurse1nicole
Thank you both for the quick replies, I would only be able to back up a couple of feet. My backend is almost to the road, but I could give it a try. Do you think getting the tires up a little would help, drive it up on leveler blocks??
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Yes, you need to back up on leveling blocks and get some timber for the front jacks. You only want the jacks about half way extended. Go to a lumber yard and get some scrap pieces of beans cut off the ends a couple under one side and one on the other? 6x8 or 8x12 beam ends would do the trick.
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11-08-2021, 10:37 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 16
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Use Linx levelers under your front stabilizers. You buy them in vinyl cloth cases of 10 and they are sturdy and a whole pack weighs less then 1 cinder block. I carry 2 cases and they cost less then $40 a case. Most camping stores carry them.
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11-08-2021, 11:23 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Clovis CA.
Posts: 405
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Another thing you can do is get a tripod for the pin. That will stabilize the pin (front end) better.
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