Living in the 5er while house gets rennovated

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by mzodarg

Sorry for the confusion....

Tile is in my house not 5er

Now that I pay more attention, I see the tile pictures are definitely not an RV. I apologise for my confusion....

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by cavie

If the 50 amp breaker is on the top right of that panel, DO NOT plug you RV into it!. 50 amp RV is 2 hots, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. 240 volts. He has use only 3 wires. Black and white are wired as hots. White is supposed to be neutral. You need anothere black or a red. You have no neutral to your RV! That set up would be fine for a welder or a compressor, but not for your RV. Also the are no romex connectors in the holes where the wires enter the box. I'll repeat, DO NOT plug your RV into that outlet.


I don't understand why your EMS didn't alert you to this problem unless you have not turned on the breaker with it plugged in.

I love that floor. Best of both worlds.

You are incorrect on your colors for the wire.

White is ALWAYS Neutral (only exception is a switch loop)

Green or bare is Always Ground

Any other color is HOT. This is usually Black and Red in a cable designed to run a 240 appliance or a 50 Amp camper receptacle

[TheWolfPaq82]

Since he's been living in it for over two weeks...don't you think it may be wired correctly ???

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by merlinhomeauto

Why do all you weekend electricians keep saying that RV electric 50amp is different than house electric? The 50amp RV outlet is the same as an electric oven outlet. I have wired many RV pedestals and repaired even more when I can't get the pedestal replacement outlets we use a flush mounted range outlet.

Flooring looks great.

THANK YOU!!!

Some do mistake a 30 Amp RV for an old 30 Amp Dryer that used 2 hots and caused BIG problems. but the 50 Amp is the same as a range receptacle

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by cavie

In the future please post the correct pictures!!

So now it is somehow OPs fault for people misunderstanding and now asking for a clarification before going off the deep end?

Sounds Bass-Ackward to me

[mzodarg]

So here is the finished box. The common wire with the black tape runs to another breaker box in my shed and the 50 amp on the right is whats powering the Rv 50 amp.



And the finished plug

[Dirt Sifter]

Ha, ha, now I see I'm not the only one with no idea.... Geej oh pete

[mzodarg]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Next time your water pump's check valve fails, don't replace the pump.

Just get a $10 Camco brass check valve (Camping World or Walmart) and install it.

I paid $13 for mine out in the middle of Nowhere, New Mexico.

Better repair...much cheaper and easier to do...and will probably last as long as the camper does.

Thanks for the check valve tip, ordered 1 off Amazon for $4.00

Mike

[spock123]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

Be sure to seal the case on your EMS. I have the same unit and it filled up with water during a rain storm the first time I used it. Progressive replaced it OK. I took the case of the second one apart and used silicone to seal it on the top and sides. I drilled a couple of small drain holes in the bottom so water can't collect inside the case. The water runs down the cord and through the top seal on the cord. I'm sure filling with water does it no good.

My unit went bad, I didn’t know you could work on them at home. My unit keeps dropping out says there is a error code that not enough current is coming in. That’s wrong. It will drop out and not let any current in, you can hear it when it clicks off

[cavie]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

You are incorrect on your colors for the wire.

White is ALWAYS Neutral (only exception is a switch loop)

Green or bare is Always Ground

Any other color is HOT. This is usually Black and Red in a cable designed to run a 240 appliance or a 50 Amp camper receptacle

White switch legs must be reidentified per the NEC.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by mzodarg

So here is the finished box. The common wire with the black tape runs to another breaker box in my shed and the 50 amp on the right is whats powering the Rv 50 amp.



And the finished plug

Oh boy, now we have a whole new issue to talk about. Double tapped lugs. Not to code. The main breaker for that panel is back at the house and the wire that used to be on a proper sized breaker is now on the sub panel main and the wire is under sized for the breaker. That is of course if this picture is correct. Why weren't the two single pole 20's twined up and the proper sized 2 pole breaker installed.

Note the two different sized wires on the double tapped lugs.

[mzodarg]

Originally Posted by cavie

Oh boy, now we have a whole new issue to talk about. Double tapped lugs. Not to code. The main breaker for that panel is back at the house and the wire that used to be on a proper sized breaker is now on the sub panel main and the wire is under sized for the breaker. That is of course if this picture is correct. Why weren't the two single pole 20's twined up and the proper sized 2 pole breaker installed.

Note the two different sized wires on the double tapped lugs.

No breaker at the house, 6 gauge wire hooked directly behind meter to a power pull cut off and then ran to the shop into the box pictured.

[5picker]

You all really need to enjoy camping a bit more!

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by mzodarg

So here is the finished box. The common wire with the black tape runs to another breaker box in my shed and the 50 amp on the right is whats powering the Rv 50 amp.



And the finished plug

Don't know if id be building a house in a neighbor hood that ya got to chain things down. Later RJD

[cavie]

Originally Posted by mzodarg

No breaker at the house, 6 gauge wire hooked directly behind meter to a power pull cut off and then ran to the shop into the box pictured.

:campf ire:

I am done with this thread.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by cavie

White switch legs must be reidentified per the NEC.

You are absolutely correct,

But in actual practice almost nobody does it and the building inspectors don't call them our on it either.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by aceinspp

Don't know if id be building a house in a neighbor hood that ya got to chain things down. Later RJD

That can be in any neighborhood these days...

Even where you live.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

You are absolutely correct,

But in actual practice almost nobody does it and the building inspectors don't call them our on it either.

As a 2 year electric inspector I could and did.

[mzodarg]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

That can be in any neighborhood these days...

Even where you live.

I don't trust anyone. I even have a chain and lock on my 25' cable along with 4 outdoor cameras. Too many crack heads! I live in a small town community average house size is 3300 Sq feet on large 1.5 acre lots, average home price is 400K. Druggies love it out here.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

You are incorrect on your colors for the wire.

White is ALWAYS Neutral (only exception is a switch loop)

Green or bare is Always Ground

Any other color is HOT. This is usually Black and Red in a cable designed to run a 240 appliance or a 50 Amp camper receptacle

Not so. identifying white as hot for 240 volts is code per the NEC when using Romex wire.