Maximum Loading weight

[Less is More]

My Rockwood 190 has a maximum loading weight of 800 lbs. My understanding of the reason for maximum weights is that the suspension and tires are rated for that weight and exceeding it creates safety issues. I also understand that 10 -15% of the total weight should be on the hitch and that weight should be balanced in the trailer.

It seems that where the weight is located in the trailer has a material affect on how much weight is on the trailer suspension. My batteries and full propane tanks weigh close to 200 lbs. However, the physics of their location implies that most of that weight is on the hitch and that perhaps only 25% of it actually is on the trailer suspension. On the other hand, my grey and black tanks are in the back of the trailer and each have a capacity of 28 gallons. When full they weight almost 800 lbs. Because they are way in the back their leveraged weight would exceed 800 lbs. So my question is should I treat the 800 lbs loading weight as an absolute or should I take into account on where the weight is located? If this logic is correct it appears to me that its best to get close to the 15% hitch weight because it puts less burden on the trailer suspension.

My second question is whether I should travel with very little water and empty grey and black tanks?

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Less is More

... it appears to me that its best to get close to the 15% hitch weight because it puts less burden on the trailer suspension.

My second question is whether I should travel with very little water and empty grey and black tanks?

1. Your particular trailer may tow better at 10% than it does at 15%. While total load definitely must be taken into consideration, don't worry about how weight distribution affects the suspension. Distributing the weight to achieve stability on the road is far more important.

2. Generally, yes. There's lots of traffic on that topic on this forum. Manufacturers rate their trailers to allow carrying fresh water but then they mount the tank with flimsy brackets, so you might not want to do that, regardless of cargo weight considerations. However, how do you get fresh water to a remote campsite? Not all camping locations have it.

I always leave a few gallons of clean water in the black tank when traveling on the assumption that the sloshing around helps loosen up anything that remains after draining it.

[Boomerweps]

Dump your waste tanks before towing! Why haul useless weight? A few gallons for slosh "cleaning" isn't necessarily useless weight.
Water is heavy, only haul it when you need to & just the amount you think you will need, IMHO.
I've discovered that, in the case of my trailer, the GTWR is significantly above the TAWR. So I can haul more than the axle is rated for. Counter-intuitive, yes? Apparently the assumption is made that the excess weight over the axle rating is carried by the TV as tongue weight.
How/where you load your cargo will affect what weight is carried by the TT axle(s) or the TV tongue weight (counting as part of TV carrying capacity).
Last, after loading for camping, have your rig weighed so you can KNOW what the weights truly are.
I thought factory specs included mounted propane tanks and battery and were not needed to be subtracted from the CCC.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

I thought factory specs included mounted propane tanks and battery and were not needed to be subtracted from the CCC.

Nope! Batteries are a dealer-installed items and their weights are subtracted from the CCC.
Propane tank weights are included so they are not subtracted.
Now, propane gas weights are a little different. In older RVs, propane gas weights were part of the CCC. But on newer RVs, it's not because it was changed around 2010.
Mainly because propane gas weight is a known number, unlike battery weight.

[Teetime]

Yes you are correct about the tire load capacity, but you will never know where you stand until you load it up and take it to a CAT scale. You can do it on your next trip and stop as often as you like...it's easy, and only about $14.

At least then you will know where you stand on GCVW, and adjust as you like for fuel efficiency.

[ependydad]

Your trailer’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) includes the weight carried by the axles and the tongue weight.

Your cargo carrying capacity is the GVWR - the loaded weight (amount carried by axles and tongue weight). What you’re calling maximum loading weight is the cargo carrying capacity.

Regardless of where it’s carried, it applies to the camper’s total weight and that weight must stay under the GVWR.

Want to know how I know? I was over my trailer’s GVWR significantly but always at/under the trailer’s axle weight rating. 2 years of fulltiming and I ended up with a buckled frame and cross member supports that literally warped and broke.

So long as I’m capable, I won’t overload an RV again.