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Old 11-18-2010, 08:30 AM   #1
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Talking moving Sissor Jacks???

On my 2702ss where the sissor jacks are installed is the low spots on my TT when backing into my driveway. I have ordered some quality skid wheels and plan to mount them where the jacks are now and thinking about (room allowing) mounting the jacks on the rear bumper.

Oh coarse I will loose a little jack capcity, but the fact that these are only stabalizing jacks and not actually lifting the TT off the ground should I be alright with this plan?

any other ideas............. I am not a welder and not too easy to take a 30+ trailer to a welding shop.

thanks all
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:15 AM   #2
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Just an FYI. I have been warned not to have skid wheels installed on my trailer by several camping buddies.

If they really make contact at the end of the frame rails at the back where I believe you will put them, they are almost guaranteed to bend your frame upward as the frame is not really designed to take force upward at the end.

My SV-291 has skid plates from the factory but they are pretty inside right next to the sewer/waste water gates, and are barely long enough to protect the valves.

There might be a rising kit for your trailer from FR. What I did with mine is, I lowered the height of the hitch ball by one hole on the Equalizar hitch and that raised the rear of the trailer a notch and I never scraped it anymore. I am still VERY VERY careful when I tow it though.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:55 AM   #3
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If the only time it drags is when you are backing in to your drive, why not get some 2x8 boards and put down to back over and prevent the dragging. Got to be cheaper than skids, jacks/welding, etc. Just a thought.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:14 AM   #4
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Those bumpers are not real stong, I would not try using it for even the stabilizers. I think Goomph hit it on the nail head about the issues of dragging the frame.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:22 PM   #5
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Thanks for input, the dragging in minimal but on jacks, so I figure if the wheels take the place of a draging jack that is better.

Yes boards are easy in a perfect world....... but my approach which I had repoured I might add is still somewhat steep on the passengerside. It requires more then one board , several like at least three and moved often or additional boards just on the one side not to say what I need on low side.... and the best part is DW is moving the boards, she can not back anything. As well my driveway is midblock going up a hill. So unless you bright stars want to come here to help me I have got to find something easier. And no I don't live in a perfect world.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:30 PM   #6
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I have a VERY steep approach to my driveway as well. My 2901SS will scrape slightly on the rear unless I release the tension from my WDH. This is the same approach I used on the Trailmanor I had before the Rockwood. Might be worth a try for you?
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:07 PM   #7
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I always remove my Dual cam setup before backing into the driveway, the clicking and popping noises it makes when turning that sharply would wake the whole neighborhood! Also, it's recommended by the manufacturer to do so. That puts the rear up, and the tongue down some, possibly enough for you to back in without scraping?? Just a thought. Randy
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:09 PM   #8
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"So unless you bright stars want to come here to help me I have got to find something easier"

Threegr8katz,
Never been called a "Bright Star" before. Not sure if I should be elated or upset. One thing I am sure of though. Sarcasm will not get you much help on any forum. There are quite a few very talented people here, and one or more of them may have what you need.

I understand your frustration with this problem as I have a steep approach to my driveway as well. Yet ridiculing the answers that good meaning folks post, will not endear you to the rest. Chill out, have a beer, and see what others have to say.

Goomph's comment about a bent frame is right on. Once bent, the crooked frame will be the least of your problems. Leaks and wall separations won't be far behind. Adjusting the angle of approach (by boards or ramp) or lifting the rear (by lowering the nose/ball adjustment or a lift kit on the axles) may be your only options.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:05 PM   #9
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point noted herk7769,

sorry for any sarcasm that was suggested. Thanks o8flaglite(randy) and hoffkm, yes my TT was making those noises and had no idea what they were. I think I well give that all a try. If I can get DW to help me I think I will unhook the wdh and see it that clears. I might go ahead and put the casters on just in case and if they clear then I well take them off and send back.... just a little inurance.

I am very thinkful for these USEFULL comments and suggestions. Sometimes a person has a thought and or question that later brings on another question, so in this case I posted them seperate. Sorry for being to wordy.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:13 PM   #10
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My 2702ss's low point one at a time, is the bottom of the leveling jacks.

1st I tried with jacks in place and boards used, one jack inadvertently got bent. (sorry about spelling)

2nd removed back leveling jacks and only one board and went in.

I have caster ordered and thought since they would be shorter (not as tall as closed jacks mounted) then the jacks were that it would work out fine..... then just relocate jacks.

hmmmmmmmm
any thoughts, if taken slow as always wouldn't I be fine with the casters.

again it would only be minimal contact with the drive way, one wheel at a time .

I am also going to unhook my wdh to help with raising the rear. If all goes well with wdh undone, casers will not even do anything, if they do touch it well just be a little additional push to ease the TT in the drive?
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:14 PM   #11
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Caper................ you are too much!! glad to hear you only buy local.........

I still have that ocean front property in Arizona any takers?
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:30 PM   #12
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You are ignoring what I said. Put the casters and they will apply upward force and they will bend your frame in a short amount of time when you think you found a solution. I believe you should really invest in the rising kit for your trailer. Should cost around 300-500 dollars and is a good investment if you really have a "hostile" driveway, to your trailer that is

Nope, I won't mention it again as you seem to be set on the casters and ignoring the advice you seeked, which is your right by all means.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:45 PM   #13
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not sure what I will do Goomph..... it would be nice to know by unhooking wdh that I would gain the needed clearance. I just can't see how with my plan it well bend anything.... I do hear your suggestions... thanks


Lots of rain yesterday checked and re checked TT bone dry.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:58 PM   #14
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I am glad your trailer is bone dry ! sigh ... I am in touch with a bunch of people about mine.

If unhooking the WDH does not work, rising kit is the only solution you should be considering. People who has it swear by it, and it also does not change the tow characteristics of the trailer they state. Our trailers are really low, and actually I love mine for that
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:35 PM   #15
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The torsion flex axles on our Rockwoods are the same as what I had on the Trailmanor I had previously. It to dragged something fierce on my driveway (the entry still has scratches in the concrete). The issue with that trailer was even with the WDH disconnected it would drag front and rear. Being a mechanical engineer and working at a machine shop I made my own lift kit out of billet aluminum. It is not difficult to install but you will have to cut some short welds between the torsion tube brackets and trailer frame. You then jack up the trailer and install the kit between the frame and torsion tube brackets with longer bolts.

I would try removing the WDH first and if you drag front and back install the lift kit. If you only drag slightly on the rear go with the casters (just be careful not to load the frame with too much interference).
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:27 PM   #16
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Hoffkm, Where do you live ? I am coming with a few cases of beer and some scotch and my trailer in tow

Just kidding ! I saw pictures of the kit sent by FR and they look flimsy, was yours any sturdier looking ? Do you have any pictures you can share with us =?

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Originally Posted by hoffkm View Post
Being a mechanical engineer and working at a machine shop I made my own lift kit out of billet aluminum. It is not difficult to install but you will have to cut some short welds between the torsion tube brackets and trailer frame. You then jack up the trailer and install the kit between the frame and torsion tube brackets with longer bolts.

I would try removing th
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:50 PM   #17
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Just another possibility worth a mention is the tires/rims. I know on mine I have 205/75/14's, which are a bit small-ish I.M.O. The new 2011's just like mine have 15's on them. That would also give you some added lift, with easy bolt on stuff. Just an afterthought!! Also, I have seen several motorhome coaches with those casters on them, but I'm not saying to do it or not, just that they did it. Randy
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:29 PM   #18
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Sorry, no pictures of the installation on my Trailmanor. I just went out and looked at the axle mounts on my Rockwood 2901SS and it is a little different than what my Trailmanor was but I think it could still be lifted the same way. Good thing is there are no welds to cut. Below is a very fuzzy picture I took of the brackets to help explain how the lift would work (sorry for quality, it's dark out right now).

If you unbolt the axle from the bracket on the frame and jack up the trailer you can insert a piece of aluminum or steel the proper thickness to get the desired lift. There are slotted holes in the bracket on the axle to use to bolt thru the axle bracket and trailer frame. You would then re-drill the bolt hole in the trailer frame bracket thru axle bracket and re-bolt that connection. (reference the notes on the picture in the attached .pdf file)

If this makes no sense let me know and I will try to sketch up something and scan it in to attach.

I am located in Wauseon, OH (30 miles west of Toledo right off of 80/90) if you want to arrange a trailer "modding" weekend.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:35 PM   #19
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Thanks for the picture. I was curious about the thickness/flimseness/strongness of the one you manufactured. Obviously that was in a previous trailer.

Thanks for the offer to mod my trailer I seem to be doing ok with the slightly lowered hitch ball. If thinks get dicey I will keep your offer in mind
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:11 PM   #20
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Thanks Randy, Goomph and hoffkm.

I really think my drag is minimal and at the rear. I think with unhooking wdh after front clears or before rear hits and the wheel casters well just help glide the trailer on in the drive.... I think we may try and use some boards too to ease the weight on the casters. DW pointed out that we don't want the entire TT weight on caster, which I pointed out that the axles are on on the drive and holding the majority of weight.
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