Must I winterize?

[CSFOLKS]

Living in Asheville, NC we have fairly mild winters. If I am willing to run a small electric heater with a thermostat in travel trailer, do I really need to winterize?

I am testing my theory now in December before my last trip of the season. The plan was to winterize for January and February. I am tracking the internal temperature, and wonder if that truly relates to the tanks and hoses.

The TT is under my barn roof and is plugged in full time.

Does anyone have experience with this? Am I crazy?

This forum is great and I enjoy reading the replies. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!
Candace

[TitanMike]

I have heat in my TT right now and it maintains a nice 50 degree temp even with outside temps in the 20's. Based on actual power measurements (I have a meter that tallies the Kwh consumed) it will cost me about $30 per month to power the heater. About the same as the Hot Tub I got rid of earlier this year.

My TT is stored in my backyard on it's own pad and it's well sheltered from wind so heater isn't straining to make up lost heat due to wind.


If I see a super low temp in the forecast, like down into the low teens at night and not above freezing during the day, I just blow the water lines out, drain the water filter, water tank, HW tank, and pour some antifreeze into Holding Tanks to protect the drain pipes and valves.

Takes me about an hour using my shop compressor and letting faucets/drains blow until no moisture (mist) comes out. Cuts down on "flushing time" when I want to use the trailer and refill with water.

[CSFOLKS]

Thanks for your reply. My trailer is a 174BH Wildwood X liite.

[CSFOLKS]

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the wealth of information in this group has to share

[Skip12]

+1 to TitanMike but I would avoid winterizing for the first time when you absolutely must do it quickly. Learning how to do it while rushing in the cold (and maybe dark) is no fun and potentially error-prone.

[CSFOLKS]

Thanks for your reply!

[Dennis878]

I live Aiken SC area and the temperatures can get in the low to mid 20’s and sometimes in the teens but that’s rare. Gets cold enough to freeze all the water in my bird baths so I assume the pipes in the trailer would also freeze.

I have a small Rockwood Mini lite 2104s that I do not winterize. I use a small electric heater, 250 watts, controlled by Inkbird temperature controller. This is key to controlling any heater. I use these when it goes into the 20’s at night, like tonight. Last night it was down in the 30’s so I just left the propane heater set at 60 degrees. This morning the temperature was 38 degrees in the area where my plumbing is located. This temperature difference was quite a surprise to me. So from now on I will be using the electric heaters and furnace. I use the trailer to often to keep winterizing it. I do have heat tanks and an enclosed under belly. The trailer is parked outside, not protected.

[Mr Towed]

I can understand if you plan to be using the rig within the next week or two, maybe. But the cost of winterizing is maybe $10? Maybe an hour of your time? Another hour to de-winterize. If it’s for any length of time I’d rather winterize and mitigate the risk of freezing as well as the expense of running an electric heater, I also, personally, don’t feel great about leaving electric heaters unattended.

[Dennis878]

I understand the concern about the electric heaters left unattended but there are many alternatives to electric heaters one might consider safer. The Inkbird will control whatever is plugged into it down to a light bulb in a lamp. All it does is turn on and off based on a temperature probe. Yes the chemicals put in your RV lines will protect your system. Like anything this must also be done properly or your system will still freeze. It cost much more than $10 to winterize properly. You must take into account cost of the equipment needed. I personally would prefer not to put chemicals in my system regardless or cost.

[formerFR]

we've traveled for over 6 years in our coach and have never 'winterized', and have seen some VERY low temp overnights, snow and ice, etc., even during months of storage back in 2017/2018 in western North Carolina...

but, our coach also has water lines contained within the 'basement', unlike our son's camper, a Gulfstream, in Far north Alabama, which he lives in right now, with much less insulation and more exposure to temperature. Since he's living in it, of course there is the heated space of the RV itself, which typically will take care of internal water lines - he only uses several small electric 750w heaters. We did 'enclose' the underbelly exposed tanks, with a construction 'debris' bag from HD, with a small temp-controlled heater in that space - so far so good.
The first real cold snap with temps in the mid - 20s found him with a frozen water line coming into the RV, but moving a heater closer to it made for no more freezes. It only lasted several hours, regardless. That was several weeks ago.
Our other son, in far North Georgia, also lives in a Rockwood RV, which is more a 'four-seasons' with a totally enclosed underbelly, which can manage the low temps for much, much longer, easily. He uses small electric heaters as well...with no issues.

Winterizing is not as needed as most might fear - as the only real danger is the expansion of ice in the water line, which can cause cracking or failure, especially at connections, causing leaks the next time pressurized water is introduced. Without water in the lines, you have no issues no matter how low or long the temps are. Winterizing fluid simply replaces any standing water, and takes much longer and lower temps to ever create any issues. Those who use air pressure to release any standing water in the lines don't have to then apply any winterizing fluid. Those who use their RVs during the winter don't do either, they simply insulate very well, especially all exposed water lines, like the water hose to the spigot, and keep the interior above freezing, of course.
Sometimes you have to get creative, though, as we have several 'tiny' heaters, about $10 each from wally world, that are about 250watts, and put them under each outside 'connection' for the pressurized water line, and it's water filter. These little heaters simply run constantly during the low temps and keep those insulated connections from creating issues, as the metal connectors tend to always freeze first. I turn those little heaters off during the day when temps are above 32.

[CSFOLKS]

Thanks, your information very helpful!

[Flybob]

I would not do it. The small heater may keep the interior of the trailer warm enough, but it will not heat the plumbing that is outside the heated cabin of the TT such as the outside shower, black and grey dump plumbing or even water pump depending on where it is located. Winterizing is inexpensive ( <$10.00) and only takes an hour or so and is much less time and money than repairing frozen lines.

[CSFOLKS]

Thanks for sharing your family’s experience. I am looking at air compressors now. Do you have a recommendation?

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by CSFOLKS

Thanks for sharing your family’s experience. I am looking at air compressors now. Do you have a recommendation?

Craftsman makes a neat portable one with battery that can be used on other tools. Lowe's sells them.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by CSFOLKS

Thanks for sharing your family’s experience. I am looking at air compressors now. Do you have a recommendation?

I got one from Harbor Freight for $30.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by CSFOLKS

Thanks for sharing your family’s experience. I am looking at air compressors now. Do you have a recommendation?

One requirement for blowing out water lines in an RV is air volume.

I'd look for a compressor that delivers the highest possible volume (usually stated as SCFM or CFM) you can find in an oil-less compressor.

You can find "Pancake" type units that will deliver ~6 SCFM at 50 Psi or so. Their ratings for higher pressure (>100 psi) will be a lot lower but you will want to use the lower pressure on your water system. This is just a matter of adjusting the regulator to the lower pressure, you don't need to look for a lower pressure rated compressor.

Prices range from ~$30-$40 to well over $100. I recently looked at a Craftsman that sells for ~$90 and it was in the sweet spot for price and max air flow.

Thing to remember about using air for winterizing is you need to blow out ALL the water. Only way to ensure that is to push the maximum amount of air through the lines and let the air blow from faucets and drains till no droplets or "fog" comes out.

A trick I learned many years ago. First drain the water heater and replace the plug/anode. Use the empty tank as storage for compressed air letting it fill until your compressor shuts off. Then open faucet. This extra air will provide a LOT of air flow which helps quickly sweep water from the line. Repeat for the next faucet, etc,

This can make a smaller compressor behave more like a larger one. It just takes periodic recharging where a large compressor can handle the job all on it's own.

BTW, it might be a good idea to drape a towel over the sink faucets as air has a tendency to spread water to counters. One way or another you're going to need that towel

[moose074]

I never winterized my first TT just drained the tanks and opened low point drains( alway open them on trip home regardless of weather) then I pulled the plug on water heater. Open all valves never had a problem. When I bought my 5th wheel and joined this forum. I do winterize takes about ten minutes. After I drain my water heater . I hook up air compressor open my switch my valve to bypass then go in trailer and open each facet till more air than water comes out. Less than 30secs then I do once more. Finally I do low point drains . Then I call it good never had a problem.

[jeff64]

Dont forget to step on toilet flush and blow it as well. Most effective with faucets closed