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Old 05-27-2020, 12:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by DadJones View Post
I am going to try to explain this as best I can. I am a newbie (obviously). So far, everywhere we have gone has been level. Tonight we got to a site that wasn't level. I used leveling blocks on one side of the RV, got it level pretty quick.

Here's where my problem started. I was lifting up the automatic tongue jack so that I could get the hitch off the ball of my truck. (note: I had two stacked leveling blocks under the foot pad to help because I had to lift it pretty high to get it off the ball). As I was raising the tongue jack, it unlatched from the ball and my travel trailer bounced and away from us about 5 feet before stopping. UGHHHH.

We tried two more times, this time making sure we had chocks (plastic) behind the wheels.

Third time, I drove it around and re-parked. We did the exact same thing, this time without the camco blocks under the foot pad and bingo, the RV didn't roll away from us.

Basically, each time the hitch and ball separated, the trailer jumped away from us about 3-5 feet.

These pictures show how we finally got it to work. This is the first time I haven't used leveling blocks under the front foot pad, but the only way to get it not to roll back on us.
for safety always block your wheels b4 taking off the ball. Good luck
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:54 PM   #22
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https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitc...r+block&sr=8-5 look this up its a bucket thAt fits under the touge its on Amazon I bought it and it works fine
I was looking at these, anyone have experience with them?

Edit: just looking at some of these on amazon cracked and broken. ouch
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:04 PM   #23
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My question is, 'why are you having to jack the tongue up so high' to get the tongue off the ball?



when you are hooked up is the truck and trailer level?


Does the ball (and truck) sag with the trailer tongue on it?


Is the ball already to 'high' and you must go higher to get the tongue off?


I think that you may have some adjustments to do...... truck?, ball?, Hitch? Something just does not seem 'right' about this.
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:16 PM   #24
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Chock the wheels and then use X-Chocks. X-Chocks are not meant to keep the trailer from rolling.
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:28 PM   #25
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My question is, 'why are you having to jack the tongue up so high' to get the tongue off the ball?
when you are hooked up is the truck and trailer level?
Does the ball (and truck) sag with the trailer tongue on it?
Is the ball already to 'high' and you must go higher to get the tongue off?
I think that you may have some adjustments to do...... truck?, ball?, Hitch? Something just does not seem 'right' about this.
We were on a slight slope, but I do agree with you. I had my neighbor look at it about a week ago and he thought it was accurate, but I have an appt on Friday to have it looked at by my local dealer.
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:50 PM   #26
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I was looking at these, anyone have experience with them?

Edit: just looking at some of these on amazon cracked and broken. ouch
I use them twice so far and didn't have a issue.they are heavy plastic
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Old 05-27-2020, 02:54 PM   #27
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I would use X chocks between the wheels to help tt from moving when un hitching. I never remove safety chains till camper is unhooked from truck just for that reason as tt can move if not properly blocked. Later RJD
Agree! X-Chocks stop any roll of the TT and stabilizes the entire TT. They made a big difference when added. I also never remove the safety chains from TV until the camper is immobilized.
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Old 05-27-2020, 03:07 PM   #28
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There are special Camco chocks that hook right to their leveling Lego blocks. They are the same width and won't slide away once the tire is on it. I have the similar LynxLocks with the matching chocks that work very well. About $20 on Amazon.
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Old 05-27-2020, 03:37 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by marinerjoe View Post
I agree that properly chocking the wheels on both sides are a priority. Keeping those leveling pads from moving is good, but keeping the camper from moving is a MUST.

Have you considered replacing the yellow pads with Andersen levelers? Not only do they make leveling more accurate and easier, they come with chock pieces to secure that side of the camper.

Combining the levelers with a LevelMatePRO will give you the easiest way to quickly get set up. I love mine and have been using them for over two years now.
X2
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Old 05-27-2020, 03:55 PM   #30
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Isn’t that what they are doing by asking for help. Most of us are humans and have experienced the same mistake or one similar to it. Your response is more likely to them not returning to the forum.
When they have the Trailer "Jump Back 3 - 5 FEET" in a row ,yes a Mistake but 3 times in a row? The "SAFETY CHAINS" if Proper will NOT allow a TT to Jump Back 3-5 Feet from ball! That leads me to believe Safety Chains were NOT Connected while Unhooking! They need Someone "At the Location" to Help them,Not just "Helpful Hints"! Safety First! Youroo!!
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Old 05-27-2020, 04:01 PM   #31
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Leveling Front to back

I have not seen anything saying that you unhitched from the truck BEFORE you jacked up the trailer! Must be done first. Be sure the ball separated from the truck before raising the trailer. I have always (over 45 years) used a 6'x12" block or higher under the trailer jack, and made sure the wheels (both sides) are chocked before doing anything when I'm parking on a slope. In over 40 years, I've had the trailer move twice. Both times, my screw up. Be careful or you can find you or someone else in the hospital...or worse!
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Old 05-27-2020, 04:41 PM   #32
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It's interesting that the subject is about leveling but most if the discussion is about securing the rv from rolling.

A list of steps to may be useful until you have a routine.

Something like:
- Level side to side
- Chock wheels, both sides, both directions
- Disconnect from ball
- Disconnect chains
- Move tow vehicle
- Level front to back
- x-chock tires
- Plug in
- Grab a beverage, you earned it

I know before I had a routine, there were times when I forgot to level side to side and had to start over.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:31 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Skip12 View Post
It's interesting that the subject is about leveling but most if the discussion is about securing the rv from rolling.

A list of steps to may be useful until you have a routine.

Something like:
- Level side to side
- Chock wheels, both sides, both directions
- Disconnect from ball
- Disconnect chains
- Move tow vehicle
- Level front to back
- x-chock tires
- Plug in
- Grab a beverage, you earned it

I know before I had a routine, there were times when I forgot to level side to side and had to start over.
Yep...x-chocks should not be installed until everything is level.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:32 PM   #34
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Those chocks need to be behind each wheel securely. That one chock on the level side is not going to stop anything. Those chocks don't appear to be large enough to stop the trailer from moving... and BOTH chocks need to be bumped up against the wheel.
We use the Lynx levelers and chocks. We have a small motorhome and the chocks make it possible to level and back up without falling off the back of the levelers.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now for your current problem, you need to level, chock, then with the vehicle safety chains on, slowly lower the bottom of the jack until it is firmly on the ground and the ball disconnects. The front of the trailer should be supported by that jack before you disconnect. You might need blocks of wood under the jack in case it doesn't hit the ground. Then you can unhook from the vehicle and level front to back.
If those chocks aren't holding find something to reinforce or replace them, a stray log might do.

One other thought.... have you put grease on the ball? That should make the disconnect easier. You also might check that the ball size is correct for your rig.
Edit.... This video is a pretty good demonstration of how to disconnect. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...qUsgXOmJDYDA33
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:43 PM   #35
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Easiest are the camco or Anderson levelers on the low side and rubber chocks on the other side. They secure the RV and level it. You need to cut one of the Anderson levelers to fit between the wheels....Camco version are shorter so no cutting required.

If you do want to continue to use the leveling blocks you need these. I use them when I need more lift than the Anderson can give me. Be sure to secure the wheel against it on the downhill side and chock the other side. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want other cheaper options rubber wheel chocks and wood work great as well.

Get yourself some good rubber wheel chocks. They are $5 each at harbor freight and much safer. The plastic ones have blown away on one side and are easily crushed by heavy TTs. For $20 worth the piece of mind.

The x chocks are great at stopping movement but I would not use as the only means to chock your trailer. They even tell you to tighten them after a few days in their video...I am more concerned with tire damage than a moving trailer though.

Good luck and happy camping.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:52 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by DadJones View Post
Thank you everyone for all the great advice. This is exactly why I posted on this site !!!

Just purchased X Chocks, keep chains connected to truck, never use plastic legos under tongue jack :-), and consider Anderson levelers. Got it...
Thanks for the update. now you safe and can enjoy and relax. later RJD
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Old 05-27-2020, 08:22 PM   #37
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I have a set of x-chocks that I use to keep the camper from 'rocking' when level. NEVER trust x-chocks to stop a camper from 'rolling' on an incline.... Something bad WILL happen... if not the first or second time... some time down the road, something bad WILL happen if you put your trust on x-chocks. They are NOT made to keep a trailer from rolling as a braking system.
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Old 05-27-2020, 09:13 PM   #38
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I agree with the other posters that X-Chocks are not to be used as a replacement for proper wheel chocking. I never use levelling blocks under the tires because you have to build them up in front of and behind the axles in order to have the chocks tight against the tires. I just use 2x10 boards long enough that I can put good chocks in front of the front axle and behind the rear axle on the boards. Andersen Levelers are another option but too expensive to buy up here in Canada.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:06 PM   #39
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FWIW.. Before we pull up to the site, I drop the sway bars. Then when we back in we level side to side first. We use 2x10's that are long enough to extend past each tire. We carry two just in case the site is really out of whack. Once level side to side, put in the X-chocks and wheel chocks. Under the tongue jack is a 6"x6" block, and we jack the trailer up enough to clear the ball. Undo the chains and trailer plug. Pull the trailer ahead. Lower the jack to level front to back. Verify the X-chocks are still tight. Lower the corner jacks, again onto more 6"x6" blocks. Tighten the stabilizer bars on the jacks to the trailer frame. Once the last corner jack is done, out goes the slide, the awning, and the top off the beer. Depending on how long we're there, we'll double check the x-chocks and corner jacks to make sure everything is still solid.

Hooking up is the reverse.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:53 PM   #40
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https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitc...r+block&sr=8-5 look this up its a bucket thAt fits under the touge its on Amazon I bought it and it works fine
Wow! $90 for a two pack. At least they work with a jack with a round foot plate, on or off.
I bought one of those traffic cone versions. Those only work with the foot removed. Current electric jack with the adjustable post extension has the foot welded on ;( I just use my extension with a couple 4x4s screwed together under that if needed.
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