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Old 05-30-2020, 10:27 AM   #61
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Always, always, always, use X-Chocks on tandem axels BEFORE you unhitch it....not only keep the camper from rolling off the leveling blocks, they also help reduce movement associated with walking around in the camper.
Do not rely on stabilizer jacks to level the unit, they are exactly what they are named, stabilizers. Initial leveling should always be done using leveling blocks or boards under the low side. Once the unit is level side to side, install the X-Chocks to keep it in place, then unhitch and use the tongue jack to level fore and aft. Once level, lower stabilizer jacks snugly, but not too far, as they can cause the frame to tweet, making doors and slide outs difficult to operate.
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Old 05-30-2020, 10:30 AM   #62
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Never, never, never use x-chocks before you unhitch. Trailer needs to be level front to back first. X-chocks will fly out like a watermelon seed if you put them on and then unhitch.
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Originally Posted by Pcolawinger View Post
Always, always, always, use X-Chocks on tandem axels BEFORE you unhitch it....not only keep the camper from rolling off the leveling blocks, they also help reduce movement associated with walking around in the camper.
Do not rely on stabilizer jacks to level the unit, they are exactly what they are named, stabilizers. Initial leveling should always be done using leveling blocks or boards under the low side. Once the unit is level side to side, install the X-Chocks to keep it in place, then unhitch and use the tongue jack to level fore and aft. Once level, lower stabilizer jacks snugly, but not too far, as they can cause the frame to tweet, making doors and slide outs difficult to operate.
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Old 05-30-2020, 10:41 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcolawinger View Post
Always, always, always, use X-Chocks on tandem axels BEFORE you unhitch it....not only keep the camper from rolling off the leveling blocks, they also help reduce movement associated with walking around in the camper.
Do not rely on stabilizer jacks to level the unit, they are exactly what they are named, stabilizers. Initial leveling should always be done using leveling blocks or boards under the low side. Once the unit is level side to side, install the X-Chocks to keep it in place, then unhitch and use the tongue jack to level fore and aft. Once level, lower stabilizer jacks snugly, but not too far, as they can cause the frame to tweet, making doors and slide outs difficult to operate.

You may think this is a good idea for unhitching your camper, it is not. For the safety of anyone around your camper when you do this, please keep them far away from your unit. Getting yourself hurt is on you.... getting someone else hurt is also on you. An x-chock will not 'hold' a camper as a braking system on an incline. Moving the tongue jack also up and down also will move the axles/tires/x-chock and could easily 'let go'....
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Old 05-30-2020, 10:55 AM   #64
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I unhitched hundreds of times using them and not a single incident. Is this Your personal opinion, personal experience or can you site particular data?
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Old 05-30-2020, 11:32 AM   #65
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This site explains what x-chocks are and are not https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ll-206560.html

I suggest someone makes a new thread about x-chocks so we can get back to helping the OP if he's got any other questions.
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Old 05-30-2020, 01:18 PM   #66
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Personal observation of one that went flying out. Also the Bal instructions say not to. At the marina I am at, nobody is allowed to use them after someone used them to chock their trailer and it let loose..
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I unhitched hundreds of times using them and not a single incident. Is this Your personal opinion, personal experience or can you site particular data?
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Old 05-30-2020, 03:56 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Pcolawinger View Post
I unhitched hundreds of times using them and not a single incident. Is this Your personal opinion, personal experience or can you site particular data?

I do not get into the habit of doing illogical things if I can help it. Good advice was given to not use x-chocks for what they are not designed to do. You are an adult and responsible for yourself AND those around you. I will watch the show from a distance as my advice/caution is not needed or wanted in your case.



My view and motto is Safety, first and always, and this idea does not fall into that category.



Blessings to you.
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Old 06-01-2020, 07:35 PM   #68
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I read two pages of responses and didn't see this comment so I will add it - if someone else beat me to it, my apologies for being redundant. Looking at the picture in the OP's first post, he has a small pad of the stackable levelers under each wheel. First, that doesn't really give the wheel chocks a proper place to sit. They should be tight against each side of the tires - and at least one tire on each side of the TT. Second, if you don't have at least 6" or so of leveling block in front and behind the tires, then if the trailer rolls even an inch or so, it's starting down hill - and if the chocks are not placed properly, they may be overrun or pushed back by the rolling trailer.

Hope this helps some. For the record, I use the orange lego blocks and have two sets of them. That gives me enough height for most campsite leveling and a pad that has plenty of excess fore & aft of the tires.
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Old 06-01-2020, 08:37 PM   #69
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We went through the manual leveling process when we got our first trailer. After 2 or 3 times of doing things manually and with the CAMCO plastic pads, we purchased a pair of Rapid Jacks along with a Hopkins Electronic LED Smart Level for RVs and Trailers (eTrailer Item # HM08201). The smart level is on the left side of the trailer at the front so I can see it in my mirrors. We pull the trailer to where we want to have it parked, from the smart level, we can see what side the Rapid Jacks go on and the Commander & Chief has me move the trailer forward or back as appropriate and puts the Rapid Jacks in place. I pull/back the trailer to level and we put X chocks in place and use rubber chocks on the side opposite the Rapid Jacks. At this point we get the trailer off the truck (rubber pad under the tongue jack) and nothing moves. Then set the stabilizers.

With this process, I've been able to easily park and level the trailer without the Commander & Chief there.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:10 PM   #70
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The only problem is that you put on the x-chocks before you disconnect. They should be installed at the same time you put down your stabilizers after everything is leveled including front to back.
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We went through the manual leveling process when we got our first trailer. After 2 or 3 times of doing things manually and with the CAMCO plastic pads, we purchased a pair of Rapid Jacks along with a Hopkins Electronic LED Smart Level for RVs and Trailers (eTrailer Item # HM08201). The smart level is on the left side of the trailer at the front so I can see it in my mirrors. We pull the trailer to where we want to have it parked, from the smart level, we can see what side the Rapid Jacks go on and the Commander & Chief has me move the trailer forward or back as appropriate and puts the Rapid Jacks in place. I pull/back the trailer to level and we put X chocks in place and use rubber chocks on the side opposite the Rapid Jacks. At this point we get the trailer off the truck (rubber pad under the tongue jack) and nothing moves. Then set the stabilizers.

With this process, I've been able to easily park and level the trailer without the Commander & Chief there.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:25 PM   #71
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Trailer jumping

Another thought, if you are backing in at an extreme angle, the tandem trailer suspension is severely loaded sideways, and will jump to try to straighten itself out when disconnected.

We store trailers for winter storage and see this happen even when the wheels are chocked.
You need to back up or go ahead straight for quite a distance to straighten out a tandem suspension.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:16 PM   #72
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How big of an incline are some people parking their trailer at? Are ya trying it on a hill? If we go 6" up or down, I'm amazed.. We've got a bumper pull and are maybe just more fussy to not be camping on a hill..
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:17 AM   #73
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I am going to try to explain this as best I can. I am a newbie (obviously). So far, everywhere we have gone has been level. Tonight we got to a site that wasn't level. I used leveling blocks on one side of the RV, got it level pretty quick.

Here's where my problem started. I was lifting up the automatic tongue jack so that I could get the hitch off the ball of my truck. (note: I had two stacked leveling blocks under the foot pad to help because I had to lift it pretty high to get it off the ball). As I was raising the tongue jack, it unlatched from the ball and my travel trailer bounced and away from us about 5 feet before stopping. UGHHHH.

We tried two more times, this time making sure we had chocks (plastic) behind the wheels.



Third time, I drove it around and re-parked. We did the exact same thing, this time without the camco blocks under the foot pad and bingo, the RV didn't roll away from us.

Basically, each time the hitch and ball separated, the trailer jumped away from us about 3-5 feet.

These pictures show how we finally got it to work. This is the first time I haven't used leveling blocks under the front foot pad, but the only way to get it not to roll back on us.
X-Chocks...
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:57 AM   #74
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Start with leveling... lateral, then longitudinal. Properly and permanently mounted levels in and on the trailer are very helpful and speed the process. I installed a pair of the curved (bubble) levels, and they work perfectly every time. Also added was a pair of smaller levels atop the tongue/frame, visible while doing the longitudinal leveling. This is done while A set of "conventional" (i.e. wedge) chocks, properly placed is just the beginning. Add a pair of X-Chocks to supplement the wedges. Use a 4x4 block (or three, stacked one over two if needed) beneath the pad of the tongue jack Leveling "blocks" or boards are used to achieve lateral leveling, then you can unhitch from the tow vehicle. After all of the above are done properly (i.e., the levels show "dead nuts"), the stabilizers at each corner are deployed. Keep in mind the stabilizers are just that... intended not as lifting jacks, but rather to reduce the rocking motion of the RV.
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:58 PM   #75
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Everyone has been posting about the use of X-Chocks and I mostly agree, but the x-chock manufacturer placed a warning on my box (sorry, don't have it anymore to post a picture) that - more or less - states that you should not adjust your tongue jack up or down after setting the x-chock in place because of the torsion that the chock places on your wheels and axles. I think the safe bet is to use regular old chocks (really kick them in-place) and stay chained up until your truck is disconnected and your rig is level, THEN set your x-chocks. Choosing a level campsite - front-to-back and left-to-right - or getting as close as you can with what you're assigned, will help too.
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:07 PM   #76
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Unhooking trailer

Do you have a spread axle trailer. My 2020 Vibe does. I’m not sure the X chocks will span the distance will they?
I’m an old Firefighter and NREMT and have always lived by check lists. I would suggest making up a check list for unhooking and setting up and one for Rehooking and preparing to move out. It can only help because there are a lot of things to remember......Good luck to you!
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:33 PM   #77
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Quote:
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Do you have a spread axle trailer. My 2020 Vibe does. Iím not sure the X chocks will span the distance will they?
Iím an old Firefighter and NREMT and have always lived by check lists. I would suggest making up a check list for unhooking and setting up and one for Rehooking and preparing to move out. It can only help because there are a lot of things to remember......Good luck to you!
You can get XL X chocks, from a number of manufacturers. I have them on my spread axles.
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:44 PM   #78
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Does anyone think another issue is the trailer is too heavy in the rear? Maybe causing it to "bounce" when unhitched?
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:16 PM   #79
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Just a comment on Anderson Levelers or similarly designed levelers. These are wonderful, provided you do not have tandem axles with the tires close together. Even then, if you cut one of them down and are parking on concrete or asphalt and you use a rubber mat to prevent slipping they still work well.


However, if you are parking on grass, gravel, sand or anywhere else where they will sink/slide with the weight of the trailer there are some inherent problems. For example, they can twist and pop out of alignment. In doing so the one that was cut can jam up between the tires creating a pretty perfect, but very unyielding chock. Or, they can come flying out and injure the person trying to set them.


Additionally, you really can't cut much off the one leveler that requires it so the whole system may not work, depending on how far apart the tires are.


Of course, once you cut them you can not return them, even though they are useless, Too bad, because it is a great idea.
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Old 06-06-2020, 05:04 PM   #80
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I like the Anderson levelers. Helps to have a co pilot, as I can keep a foot on the break while co pilot chocks wheels fore and aft and places homemade X chock (like function ). Had a similar experience once, only a foot movement though, thought I would bend the jack . Held up luckily .
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