New Here with LOTS of Questions!

[todohert]

Hello! We just purchased our first travel trailer. It is a 2002 Forest River Wildwood and in very good condition. It is a little overwhelming when we go on Youtube and see all the things we "need" to get. Here are my questions:

1. Do tire chocks help level the trailer?

2. Should we invest in a leveling device that goes to our phone to tell us when the trailer is level?

3. Should we invest in a moisture meter to see if there are leaks in the trailer because of its age? We have looked inside and out and haven't seen any signs of water damage.

4. Do we need all the fancy gadgets like the pads that stabilizers go on? Caps with tiny holes for the back bumper instead of the the ones with one large hole so bugs don't get in?

5. What is the best sewer hose to get?

So many questions. We have been tent campers for 35 years so this is all new to us. Very excited to have a trailer.

[NCThiker]

Originally Posted by todohert

Hello! We just purchased our first travel trailer. It is a 2002 Forest River Wildwood and in very good condition. It is a little overwhelming when we go on Youtube and see all the things we "need" to get. Here are my questions:

1. Do tire chocks help level the trailer?
No just keep it from rolling, I use several different thicknesses of lumber for level.

2. Should we invest in a leveling device that goes to our phone to tell us when the trailer is level?
I don't, I just use a cheap torpedo level.

3. Should we invest in a moisture meter to see if there are leaks in the trailer because of its age? We have looked inside and out and haven't seen any signs of water damage.
Might not be a bad idea, lots of other uses for it.

4. Do we need all the fancy gadgets like the pads that stabilizers go on? Caps with tiny holes for the back bumper instead of the the ones with one large hole so bugs don't get in?
I did buy plastic jack stand pads. I keep sewer hose in a plastic tote. Bumper tends to get rusty inside and damage hose.

5. What is the best sewer hose to get?
I did buy a higher end hose, don't remember for sure, but rhino hose maybe?

So many questions. We have been tent campers for 35 years so this is all new to us. Very excited to have a trailer.

Welcome from NW lower Michigan. I tend to be more frugal than some, so feel free to blow that dough if you're so inclined.

[Bldessauer]

Relatively new to our 2018 Cherokee Grey Wolf too, but I'll add my two cents. It's my first time responding!

1. Tire chocks only keep the trailer from rolling when you detatch it from your vehicle. NEVER unhook the camper without the chocks in place!
There are leveling chocks you can purchase that are curved. When you roll one side of the trailer onto the curved piece, it raises the side they're on. I have them and they're pretty handy. They are a 4 piece set, two curved pieces that raise the two wheels, and two chocks that lock them into place.

2. You don't need to run out and get a bunch of fancy gadgets for a lot of things. Just use a couple torpedo levels on different locations of the camper while you are leveling it. i.e. the front tongue, the rear bumper, the floor just inside the entry door, etc.

3. I haven't heard of a moisture meter. Just check inside of cabinets and other nooks and crannies with a flashlight when it's raining...

4. Bumper caps need to be vented if you're storing the waste hose in it. Remember, you're camping...you need to have an acceptance of bugs. At least on the outside of your camper. LOL

5. Camco products are widely used and pretty reliable. It's what I use and they have lots of fitting types.

[Bldessauer]

NC, I'm glad your response was close to mine. LOL I agree with you about the plastic stackable blocks. I'm ordering some to use instead of my wood blocks. They are lightweight and easy to stack and store. I too keep my hoses in a tote...for some reason I picture my hose working it's way out of the bumper on a long trip.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Hi, former tent campers. We've been where you are in trying to understand an rv. You've gotten some good answers, so I'm going to answer questions you haven't asked yet.
1. Do not use the stabilizers to level the trailer. They aren't made to carry weight. For leveling, we started out with pieces of wood under the tires then eventually bought the lego type levelers.
2. You're leveling for the refrigerator to work properly and you can use a cheap level for that.
3. You need to get eyes on the roof and repair any deteriorated sealant around the edges and seals around anything that comes through the roof. Use rv products, not silicone, to seal them. Check outside seals around windows and marker lights. Seals deteriorate over time.
4. You don't need stabilizer pads, but a wooden pad will help keep them from sinking in wet soil. Fancy gadgets can wait til you need them.
5. You can get good quality hoses at most rv stores. Usually we buy what's on sale and looks durable.

You need to develop a checklist of things to do when depart and when you come home. Then you need to do a 'walkaround' to make certain everything is hooked up and everything is closed up. Both of us did it at first to make certain we didn't overlook anything.

Welcome to the forum!

[lizARdman15]

Also, if you use X-Chocks, it is recommended to still use actual chocks.

I used X-Chocks exclusively for the first year before someone told me that I should still use a rubber chock on each side as well.
X works on friction and can apparently fail. On flat ground, it may not make a huge difference, but with any slope, it's a foolproof insurance.
I will say that the Xs kept me from rolling down a hill during an earthquake(sure it was only about a 4.0), but I didn't die! LOL

As far as the other questions:
-Tire chocks do not level, but I do have a set of rollon levelers that have chocks. I use the X on both sides and a regular rubber chock on the side where the wheel makes contact.
-I bought fancy plastic pads and the gravel lots broke them to pieces. I now have 2x8 wood cut to stack for as high as needed.
-Torpedo level works great. Double check after your wife as mine seems to like reading it opposite. Also, I prefer to have a slight front high set up so the water drains off better. Not a lot, just a little is enough.
-Rhino hose it what I use. I'm entering my third season and they show no sign of wear. If you want to play with them by wearing them as arms, make sure they are new and unused. C-Diff is no fun

Keep up the questions. I was in your shoes exactly 2 years ago.

Wish I had done it years sooner!

[Chuck_S]

Level the trailer one time using a carpenter's level. Borrow one, you won't need it for this again. Your street or a school or church parking lot is usually pretty level to start with. Just shim the low side with scrap plywood under the tires until it's level side to side. The tongue jack does the fore and aft.

Once level stick some little bubble levels on the outside of the trailer -- making sure the bubble is centered -- and just use those from now on. Ours are by the tongue jack on the front and side of the camper. There are probably dozens of different types of these, here's one:



We're finding much more level campsites the past few years and rarely have to resort to any side-to-side leveling. Fore and aft is always required using the tongue jack.

-- Chuck

[Oaklevel]

Welcome from Virginia !!!!!!!

You can spend as much or little as you want and can afford. Don't over think things.

1. Chocks are not for leveling nor are stablizers. 2 x 8s can be used for leveling (been doing that for 35 plus years.

2. A small level is fine. I have used a 24" carpenter's level for years.

3. No not needed.

4. Fancy gadgets are not needed. Again 2 x what ever works fine for pads. Legos are ok too. Never had bugs get into the back bumper or had one cause damage to a sewer hose. The caps normally keep the hose in. But a tote works fine too.

5.Don't skimp get a good brand waste hose. We like the Rhino hose, there are other good brands too.

[rowdy boys 3]

Chocks for sure on each side of every wheel, you can level by looking at it...

[Chaplain Kent]

We have camped 50 plus years in all types of campers and tents. We have a wall in our garage with racks of unused equipment and I am still buying more. Just installed a Floe to make winterizing easier. I can never pass by a Camping World or Harbor Freight store, it is part of enjoying the camping experience. Phone aps are my newest collection. Just put on a bubble level works great with my automatic levelers. Have fun camping and collecting.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by rowdy boys 3

Chocks for sure on each side of every wheel, you can level by looking at it...

So a trailer with 4 tires needs 8 chocks? Not really.

[rfifer]

If you screw down the stabilizers to the point that they slightly raise that part of the trailer, be sure to check to see how your entry door closes. If the trailer is truly level, the entry door should latch with little or no effort. But sometimes, if the stabilizer is pushing down too hard and thereby lifting the trailer, the frame may rack causing difficulty either closing your entry door or keeping the door closed. If that happens, just check your stabilizers to make sure they are down but not lifting the trailer.

Also, I also use pads under the tongue jack and under each stabilizer. Place the smooth side down and the waffle side up. They are very useful, especially the pad under the tongue jack, to keep things from slipping or sinking.

[slamac]

Congratulations on your new trailer,I believe you will never go back to tent camping. At least I never did. As for all your questions. I have owned all typs of RV's in my 50 plus years of camping. There are several ways and opinions to deal with your questions and most of them good ones. I suggest you hook up with someone you know is an experanced travel trailer user and have them tell you and if possible show you all the do's and don't do's. You will learn over time what works best for you once you have some experance under your belt.
Have fun with your new adventures, and keep safety at the top of your list. Happy camping.

[jrschneider99]

Congratulations on the new Trailer. One of the best pieces of advice I found on this forum was to purchase a 2 foot level and some 1/4" blocks of wood. My trailer axle width has the tires at about 8 feet apart. Using the level with the 1/4" blocks lets me know how many 1" blocks to place under the "low" side of the trailer when I have pulled the trailer into its intended position in the campsite. Using the 2 foot level inside the doorway aligned perpendicular to the front and back (i.e. side to side) of my trailer and placing the 1/4" blocks to bring it to level makes the math easy for knowing how many 1" blocks to place under the low side wheels 8 feet between tires divided by 2 foot level lenght = 4. 4 multiplied by the number of 1/4" blocks under the level to bring it to level = the number of 1" blocks to place under the wheels. You could also use 1/8 inch blocks to figure out in 1/2 in increments of blocks to place under the low side wheels. Placement of the 1 inch blocks is accomplished by backing the trailer, or pulling forward, far enough to place the necessary number of 1" blocks where the tires had been and reverse the process of moving the trailer for placing the blocks. Works every time.
Hope this helps, as the front to back leveling is quite easy with the tongue jack. Do not use the stabalizers to level as they willl likely break or place unneccessary stresses on your trailer as previous replies have pointed out.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by rfifer

If you screw down the stabilizers to the point that they slightly raise that part of the trailer, be sure to check to see how your entry door closes..

Stabilizers are NOT made to bear any weight. If you must raise one side, you could use bottle jacks under the frame.

[Doppleganger]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Level the trailer one time using a carpenter's level. Borrow one, you won't need it for this again. Your street or a school or church parking lot is usually pretty level to start with. Just shim the low side with scrap plywood under the tires until it's level side to side. The tongue jack does the fore and aft.

Once level stick some little bubble levels on the outside of the trailer -- making sure the bubble is centered -- and just use those from now on. Ours are by the tongue jack on the front and side of the camper. There are probably dozens of different types of these, here's one:



We're finding much more level campsites the past few years and rarely have to resort to any side-to-side leveling. Fore and aft is always required using the tongue jack.

-- Chuck

The only suggestion I have for those stick on bubble levels, is don't use the white foam sticky pads they come with. Replace it with some better quality 3M stuff, that doesn't twist as easy. I need to replace ours with some 3M stuff.

[John816]

Biggest piece of advice- YouTube! Watch as many videos as you can. There is a video for every question you might have

[MisterVick]

1. Do tire chocks help level the trailer? THERE'S A SPECIFIC BRAND OF WHEEL CHOCKS THAT ARE ALSO LEVELING BLOCKS - THEIR BRAND IS ANDERSEN AND THEY'RE GOOD, AND THERE ARE A HOST OF KNOCK-OFFS TO ANDERSEN BLOCKS AS WELL. THEY WILL ALLOW YOU TO LEVEL THE TRAILER FROM LEFT-RIGHT (DRIVER-PASSENGER SIDES) BUT THEY'RE NOT AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY. YOU DO NEED A METHOD OF LEVELING SIDE-TO-SIDE THOUGH AND MANY PEOPLE USE WOOD BLOCKS AS WELL.

2. Should we invest in a leveling device that goes to our phone to tell us when the trailer is level? YOU CAN, BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE A BUBBLE LEVEL FROM A HARDWARE STORE THAT WILL COST YOU SIGNIFICANTLY LESS THAN THE TECHNOLOGICAL EQUIVALENT AND MAY NOT OVERWHELM YOU'RE CURRENT LEARNING CURVE.

3. Should we invest in a moisture meter to see if there are leaks in the trailer because of its age? We have looked inside and out and haven't seen any signs of water damage. NOT NECESSARY. BUT KEEP AN EYE OUT AND BE DILIGENT TO LOOK FOR WATER LEAKS ALONG THE ROOF LINE, UNDER SINKS AND YOUR TOILET, THE ROOF VENTS AND AROUND AIR CONDITIONERS.

4. Do we need all the fancy gadgets like the pads that stabilizers go on? Caps with tiny holes for the back bumper instead of the the ones with one large hole so bugs don't get in? "FANCY GADGETS" ARE AVAILABLE FOR ANYONE AT A VARIETY OF PRICE POINTS. BUT MY PERSONAL SUGGESTION IS KEEP IT SIMPLE FOR THE FIRST YEAR AND LOOK FOR GADGETS, IF YOU WILL, THAT WILL ENHANCE YOUR CAMPING EXPERIENCES WITHOUT BREAKING THE BANK OR CAUSING YOU STRESS OVER WHAT MAY BE NEEDLESS ENHANCEMENTS.

5. What is the best sewer hose to get? BEST SEWER HOSE IS THE ONE THAT DOESN'T LEAK! BESIDES THAT, THE MAJORS IN THE SEWER HOSE PYRAMID ARE RHINO, CAMCO AND LIPPERT.

[Lostcoast]

I recommend getting the leveler blocks, not all sites are level. Recently while camping my brother in law borrowed 2 of mine to level out the bar b que grill table he uses. Can use for tables, chairs, whatever needs a little help.

[souljourner]

Regarding leveling - my #1 favorite purchase has been my LevelMate Pro. Every time I go camping I can’t help but express my gratitude for this time saving, and marriage saving, device.

I pull into my campsite with the app opened on my phone. I can instantly tell where the most level spot is in the campsite, and if not level, instantly know how many inches of leveling blocks I need, as well as how much I need to raise or lower the tongue.

I often travel solo and it has been an incredible time saver. I can back in and be sitting under my awning completely set up in 10 minutes. Sure I could use a mechanical level. But the ease of use and the precision takes any trial and error out of the equation.

I just looked - it’s currently on sale on Amazon. $124. Well worth every penny of that, in my opinion.

LevelMatePRO Wireless Vehicle Leveling System - Patented Quick and Easy Smartphone RV Leveling Tool - Powered by LogicBlue Technology https://a.co/d/9swFQTT