New to camping - Advice on camper and 1/2 ton vehicle

[bmessmerjr]

Hello,

I am new to this and wanted to get thoughts on the camper I am interested in purchasing. First, I would like to see if my vehicle can tow and second if it will be an pleasant experience. The salesperson said it should be fine with no issues, especially if I am traveling with no tanks full. I will buy a nice sway hitch like 4 pt Equalizer or similar to help with the length of the camper. I have also crunched all of the numbers and it appears my truck will pull, but wanted thoughts of experienced campers. Any responses or suggestions (gear needed, etc...) are appreciated.

Thank you
Bryan

Tow terrain - Mountains are possibility in the future, but mainly 4 hour trips with minor hills until I feel comfortable traveling outside of this terrain

Traveling load in Truck-
2 people and 2 dogs - 520 lbs
Gear - 150 lbs

Truck specs - 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3 v8 Custom Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed with Tow Package (not max tow package)
GVWR - 7100 lbs
GCWR - 15000 lbs
GAWR RR - 3800 lbs
Max Payload - 1935
Max Tongue Weight - 950 lbs
Curb Weight - 5165 lbs
Tow Capacity (website)- 9500 lbs


Trailer Specs - 2020 Forrest River RV Cherokee 264DBH
Length - 33 ft
Hitch Weight - 884 lbs
Gross Weight - 8485 lbs
Dry Weight - 6760 lbs
Cargo Weight - 1725 lbs

[Mike134]

Here's a somewhat similar question.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-201797.html

[Kimber45]

take your payload, subtract your 520 for passengers and dogs subtract 884 for your hitch weight (real number loaded is prob more) and you are in about the exact same range everyone else towing a 6-8 pound trailer with a 1/2 ton is.

[Herk7769]

Won't even begin to talk about your fuel economy with that load out.

[bmessmerjr]

Thank you ! I just went through this but I am assuming I will be closer to 8000 lbs as opposed to 10000 lbs, but just a guess. I will definitely have to think about it because I do not want to put myself or passengers in any sort of danger, especially with lack of experience.

[bmessmerjr]

Thank you ! So are you saying this should be fine as long as you pack light and stay within the limits. Or shouldn't push my luck?

[BigH]

Originally Posted by bmessmerjr

Thank you ! So are you saying this should be fine as long as you pack light and stay within the limits. Or shouldn't push my luck?

I question the tongue weight limit you gave at 950...

The hitch weight for the trailer is 884. That number includes propane but not a battery and the battery is right on the tongue. That factory hitch number is not set in stone either...any option will change it for better or worse. You are going to be right at your tongue weight limit before you load a pair of socks in that camper.

[007matman]

Can you do it? Maybe. Should you do it? Probably not.

That's an awful lot for that pickup. By the time you get passengers and fuel as well as the camper loaded you'll be pushing limits.

I'd look for a 26' and maybe under 5500lbs and you'll be a lot happier. Most trailers advertised a half-ton towable are really 3/4 ton comfortable and half-ton nail biting. I did it for a while myself. After several repairs, (a few that were roadside) and a new tranny I gave up the Escalade (for towing) and bought a 1-ton. You don't need to do what I did but if you're looking at that much trailer I'd be planning an upgrade to a 3/4 ton of better.

I bought the 1-ton Dually because it was actually cheaper to purchase and insure. Your results may vary..

Just my advice.. others will disagree.

[Vladivar]

Couple of things to take into account:

The specs for the truck (especially cargo cap) - are they from the actual door sticker of your truck or generic from the website? If not from your actual truck, the numbers could be very different.

The specs for the TT - are they from the sticker on your unit? If not, they also could differ a little from the website.

Your starting point should always be the numbers for your actual vehicle/TT.

Travel load in truck - does that include a full tank of gas and you WD hitch? If not you could looking at over 200lbs for those 2 things combined which takes that away from your cargo cap.

So, that being said - if you take worse case scenario (never a bad thing as it allows a little wiggle room):

Gross weight of TT 8485lbs @ 12% for safe hitch weight = 1018lbs on the hitch = 68lbs over your specs (WD hitch will take care of that)

1018lbs hitch + 520lbs peeps/dogs + 150lbs gear + 200lbs gas/hitch = 1888lbs of cargo. Or just 47lbs under your max.

Truck GVWR 7100lbs + loaded TT 8485lbs = 15,585lbs or 585lbs over your GCWR.

Looking at it from that perspective, you are either well over or very close to maxing out all your numbers. This obviously is never a good thing.
However, as I said, this is worse case scenario and you will likely never get to these loads.

Personally I would rather not take the chance and would be looking to either upsize the truck (my preferred choice) or downsize the TT.

Unfortunately you find yourself in that “grey” area that so many do where - on paper - you can do what you are planning with the equipment you have, but once you get in a real world situation of having to pull up some grades and safely get down them again, or hit the brakes hard for the idiots that will pull out in front of you (and they will) you will be wishing you had bought that 3/4 ton diesel to control the 33ft rolling wall with a mind of its own you are dragging behind you.

[Mike134]

good information from above,


If you do go to a 3/4 ton don't go diesel there's very little increase in payload, the weight of the engine burns it up.



https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

[Vladivar]

Originally Posted by Mike134

good information from above,


If you do go to a 3/4 ton don't go diesel there's very little increase in payload, the weight of the engine burns it up.



https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

Very true - but 850lb/ft of torque going up a hill and a full engine brake coming down sure do make you feel good lol.

[Oaklevel]

On a quick look it looks too close for me. I would not recommend it.

Do not go by website info. Only go by the truck you are looking at.

Back in the day a salesman told me oh that mini van will tow 3800 lbs (brochure info). Looked at the actual van we were looking at.......... actual capacity was 1500 lbs.

[CurtPutnam]

My TT has a GVWR of 8818. Because the tongue weight could approach 1400 lbs, I have a receiver rated for 2700 lbs. Also upgraded to a Chevy 2500 from a Tundra.

Because your truck is new and you have not yet bought the TT, I suggest that you look at something smaller. That 5.3 L V8 engine will feel wimpy in the mountains with a huge TT behind you. A smaller TT will be easier to learn with and you will fit into more state and federal parks.

[fonzie]

Originally Posted by bmessmerjr

Thank you ! So are you saying this should be fine as long as you pack light and stay within the limits. Or shouldn't push my luck?

If you can, post these two stickers from your truck door jam, it will help to provide better info.

[bmessmerjr]

Originally Posted by Vladivar

Couple of things to take into account:

The specs for the truck (especially cargo cap) - are they from the actual door sticker of your truck or generic from the website? If not from your actual truck, the numbers could be very different.

The specs for the TT - are they from the sticker on your unit? If not, they also could differ a little from the website.

Your starting point should always be the numbers for your actual vehicle/TT.

Travel load in truck - does that include a full tank of gas and you WD hitch? If not you could looking at over 200lbs for those 2 things combined which takes that away from your cargo cap.

So, that being said - if you take worse case scenario (never a bad thing as it allows a little wiggle room):

Gross weight of TT 8485lbs @ 12% for safe hitch weight = 1018lbs on the hitch = 68lbs over your specs (WD hitch will take care of that)

1018lbs hitch + 520lbs peeps/dogs + 150lbs gear + 200lbs gas/hitch = 1888lbs of cargo. Or just 47lbs under your max.

Truck GVWR 7100lbs + loaded TT 8485lbs = 15,585lbs or 585lbs over your GCWR.

Looking at it from that perspective, you are either well over or very close to maxing out all your numbers. This obviously is never a good thing.
However, as I said, this is worse case scenario and you will likely never get to these loads.

Personally I would rather not take the chance and would be looking to either upsize the truck (my preferred choice) or downsize the TT.

Unfortunately you find yourself in that “grey” area that so many do where - on paper - you can do what you are planning with the equipment you have, but once you get in a real world situation of having to pull up some grades and safely get down them again, or hit the brakes hard for the idiots that will pull out in front of you (and they will) you will be wishing you had bought that 3/4 ton diesel to control the 33ft rolling wall with a mind of its own you are dragging behind you.

Thank you for the feedback. It appears it will be right on the borderline and putting my truck through that probably is not the best idea. Also these are numbers straight from my truck door.

[bmessmerjr]

From truck door

[mpouls1]

Are you sure about the towing capacity? There is a big difference if you don't have the max tow for 1/2 ton. Do you know what gears and engine? I'd go on Silverado website and look up the trailering numbers to be sure you can tow that much. And yes payload is important as well.

[SlowrideHD]

I'll give you an opinion from someone that has been camping for 60 years, and towing tt for over 35 years. Get smaller than what you think would be ideal. It seems that many of us started tent camping, then maybe an ultra light or popup. Graduated to a 19-24' bumper pull, then 5er's or super C or class A.
For a long time we thought, the bigger and more roomier, the better. Now it seems that we are leaning back the other way and found we really don't need all that much "stuff". Plus, with the conditions of the roads, you just end up tearing that much more up.

If I had it to do over again, I think I would have stopped with something that I could easily move around with a 1/2 ton gasser.

Don't get me wrong...I love our rig and have done a lot to it to make it more functional, for us.

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by Vladivar

Couple of things to take into account:

The specs for the truck (especially cargo cap) - are they from the actual door sticker of your truck or generic from the website? If not from your actual truck, the numbers could be very different.

The specs for the TT - are they from the sticker on your unit? If not, they also could differ a little from the website.

Your starting point should always be the numbers for your actual vehicle/TT.

Travel load in truck - does that include a full tank of gas and you WD hitch? If not you could looking at over 200lbs for those 2 things combined which takes that away from your cargo cap.

So, that being said - if you take worse case scenario (never a bad thing as it allows a little wiggle room):

Gross weight of TT 8485lbs @ 12% for safe hitch weight = 1018lbs on the hitch = 68lbs over your specs (WD hitch will take care of that)

1018lbs hitch + 520lbs peeps/dogs + 150lbs gear + 200lbs gas/hitch = 1888lbs of cargo. Or just 47lbs under your max.

Truck GVWR 7100lbs + loaded TT 8485lbs = 15,585lbs or 585lbs over your GCWR.

Looking at it from that perspective, you are either well over or very close to maxing out all your numbers. This obviously is never a good thing.
However, as I said, this is worse case scenario and you will likely never get to these loads.

Personally I would rather not take the chance and would be looking to either upsize the truck (my preferred choice) or downsize the TT.

Unfortunately you find yourself in that “grey” area that so many do where - on paper - you can do what you are planning with the equipment you have, but once you get in a real world situation of having to pull up some grades and safely get down them again, or hit the brakes hard for the idiots that will pull out in front of you (and they will) you will be wishing you had bought that 3/4 ton diesel to control the 33ft rolling wall with a mind of its own you are dragging behind you.

Keep in mind the payload already takes into account a full tank of fuel. So you only need to account for 100lbs of hitch if you are going with a traditional WD hitch. If you had to account for fuel it would be over 100lbs. Assuming a 36 gal tank at 6lbs/gal would be 216 lbs.

If you are set on the trailer you mention and are not sure about you 1/2 ton you can always try towing it and see how it feels. From what you say about the numbers you are within the design spec safety margins. You won't break anything in the short run. If it feels ok to you then you are probably good to go. If not you will need more truck. This opinion will probably not be popular. You have to decide.

I do like the advice of going smaller. When my family camps we spend 90% of our waking hours outside. We really just need a place to sleep and get out of the elements in less than pleasant weather. "Right-sizing" saves money and allows more access to camp sites.

[dodgemark]

Originally Posted by Mike134

good information from above,


If you do go to a 3/4 ton don't go diesel there's very little increase in payload, the weight of the engine burns it up.



https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

Sorry but diesel is the way to go . If only for the engine brake alone, but a diesel will out pull a gas all day long. A diesel loves pulling weight, a gas not so much. Sorry