Newbie RV’r Help

[Hollyse]

Originally Posted by CurtPutnam

If you are going to be plugging in sensitive electronics then, yes, you want a Progressive EMS unit. At a bare minimum, you want:

20' of sewer hose
2 25' water hoses
Plug converters (dogbones)
2 25' extension cords
bucket

you really do want:

quality tires
air pressure gauge
Viair air compressor
generator(s) if boondocking
TPMS (TST 507)

I have forgotten some things. A more specific list can be developed if we know what your RV is

Would something like this work for inside the rv and is the EMS necessary for outside when plugging into RV parks electric you mean?There are so many...doesn’t have to be something special? And is the

Power Strip Tower-JACKYLED Surge Protector Electric Charging Station 3000W 13A 16AWG 6 Outlet Plugs with 4 USB Slot 6ft Cord Wire Extension Universal Charging Station Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPADPCW..._zpOjCbMPG4KWA

[Bill and Gail]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

What is reason for not using a 50a, if can be avoided, if RV is 30a? Just trying to understand everything.
Thank you everyone for your responses, it is so helpful!

If there is an amp draw above the 30a, the 30a breaker will trip. The 50a will not trip until it is exceeded, this could cause problems if your internal breaker doesn't trip. I only use the 50a if it is absolutely necessary. Your rig will not draw 50a, it is designed to only use a max of 30a. If you exceed 30a, your breaker inside will trip, even if you are plugged into 50a.

[Bill and Gail]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Would something like this work for inside the rv and is the EMS necessary for outside when plugging into RV parks electric you mean?There are so many...doesn’t have to be something special? And is the

Power Strip Tower-JACKYLED Surge Protector Electric Charging Station 3000W 13A 16AWG 6 Outlet Plugs with 4 USB Slot 6ft Cord Wire Extension Universal Charging Station Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPADPCW..._zpOjCbMPG4KWA

Not to scare you, but, the EMS protects the whole rig from surges, low voltage, high voltage, reversed neutral and bad ground. Any one of which can take out your fridge, microwave, tv, stereo, etc. If nothing else, I would at least get a surge protector, to protect from surges.
If you do get one, get the EMS or Surge protector from either Progressive Industries or Surge Guard.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Bill and Gail

If there is an amp draw above the 30a, the 30a breaker will trip. The 50a will not trip until it is exceeded, this could cause problems if your internal breaker doesn't trip. I only use the 50a if it is absolutely necessary. Your rig will not draw 50a, it is designed to only use a max of 30a. If you exceed 30a, your breaker inside will trip, even if you are plugged into 50a.

Please don't let this scare you.

While certainly not impossible, the probability of "something" causing a current draw between the campground power post and your 30 amp breaker that is greater than 30 amps but less than 50 amps is pretty slim. A lottery ticket probably has better odds. If it were more probable, it would be illegal to use adapters.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Would something like this work for inside the rv and is the EMS necessary for outside when plugging into RV parks electric you mean?There are so many...doesn’t have to be something special? And is the

Power Strip Tower-JACKYLED Surge Protector Electric Charging Station 3000W 13A 16AWG 6 Outlet Plugs with 4 USB Slot 6ft Cord Wire Extension Universal Charging Station Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPADPCW..._zpOjCbMPG4KWA

You want something just for the RV called an "EMS". See if this helps:
What Surge Protector is best for my RV? | Learn To RV

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

What do you have for one?

For an EMS? The Progressive Industries EMS like it mentions in the article. Mine is hard-wired but portables have their benefits.

[Hollyse]

Originally Posted by Bill and Gail

Not to scare you, but, the EMS protects the whole rig from surges, low voltage, high voltage, reversed neutral and bad ground. Any one of which can take out your fridge, microwave, tv, stereo, etc. If nothing else, I would at least get a surge protector, to protect from surges.
If you do get one, get the EMS or Surge protector from either Progressive Industries or Surge Guard.

Yikes. $255 on amazon
And pretty necessary?

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Please don't let this scare you.

While certainly not impossible, the probability of "something" causing a current draw between the campground power post and your 30 amp breaker that is greater than 30 amps but less than 50 amps is pretty slim. A lottery ticket probably has better odds. If it were more probable, it would be illegal to use adapters.

Originally Posted by Hollyse

What do you have for yours?

I use a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter when I need to.

If you're asking about an EMS, I don't use an EMS. Neither do a lot of people, but many other people swear by them and will tell you you NEED one. I've been camping for 30+ years and have never had an electrical issue. That doesn't mean I won't tomorrow, but it's my experience.

They are essentially an insurance policy; do you feel lucky? I've never felt the need for one.

This is just one example of what someone else told you in one of the posts above about "opinions" on this forum. There are many debates here on the forum concerning many things. Examples: gas vs diesel tow vehicles, slideouts vs no slideouts, slideout covers or no slideout covers, use of bike racks, RV toilet paper vs regular TP, Blue Ox WDH vs Equal-i-zer WDH vs Anderson WDH, Ford vs Chevy vs Ram, 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton, etc., etc.

You need to read as much as you can on both sides of any issue and make your own decision.

[Hollyse]

I like hearing multiple responses Not sure I can afford $255 more dollars right now. So that might have to wait unfortunatly

[Hollyse]

Are wheel chocks necessary?

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Are wheel chocks necessary?

Yes, to prevent your rig from rolling / moving on you.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Yikes. $255 on amazon
And pretty necessary?

It is insurance. Is it necessary No ! but if you have an electrical issue it can save your appliances. Some have camped for years without one and had no issues , but if you have an issue it can be costly.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

Yes, to prevent your rig from rolling on you.

You wouldn't need to chock a Sunseeker on level ground, would you?

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

You wouldn't need to chock a Sunseeker on level ground, would you?

Yes and no. Personally I would. Esp for a newby. If you use the emergency brake maybe not but I do not trust an AT to stay in park of a vehicles emergency brake. I am not on level ground too often .

[Hollyse]

Is this all I need for the septic/toilet part of things?
Walex BOI-11530 Bio-Pak Natural Holding Tank Deodorizer and Waste Digester Drop-Ins, Alpine Fresh Scent (Pack of 10)

[Hollyse]

Does anyone use anything to cover their windows/vents to keep cold air out in the winter?

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

2016 forestRiver Sunseeker. Will plug in at the rv park. I believe the RV park has mostly 50a spots and the RV is 30a, so do I need an adapter of some kind?
So even when plugged in we will still need propane for hot water, heat, and fridge?
Sorry, I’m sure I sound silly with such basic questions...
And thank you everyone for your responses and help

If you are plugging into 50 amp service, you will need an adapter...50 amp male to 30 amp female. Plug the 50 amp into the campground's pedestal, then plug the 30 amp cord from the RV into the 50 amp adapter. You SHOULD also have a surge protector at that point, but it will work without one. INEXPENSIVE ADAPTER AVAILABLE AT WALMART.

If you are plugged in, the fridge, which is probably dual power - electric and propane - will run on electric. There should be a switch somewhere on the fridge that says "auto" or "automatic" that will select electric when electricity is available, and automatically convert to propane operation when electric is disconnected.

On a 2016 model, you likely have a water heater that will run on either electric or propane (or both, if you want to heat up the water really quickly).
If you on the "electric water heater" switch in the coach, but still don't get hot water, there is (usually) a secondary switch on the water heater itself (a little black toggle switch) that also must be turned on. CAUTION - verify that there is water in the water heater before you turn any heat source (but especially the electric element) on. Sounds like a simple thing, but you would be surprised how many people "fry" the heating element by turning on the electric switch without having water in the tank.

Heat - furnace runs on propane. Or, take along a small space heater and run it instead of the furnace.

Good idea to have some kind of water filtration. A Camco in-line water filter from Walmart will serve you well for this purpose.

Good luck!

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Is this all I need for the septic/toilet part of things?
Walex BOI-11530 Bio-Pak Natural Holding Tank Deodorizer and Waste Digester Drop-Ins, Alpine Fresh Scent (Pack of 10)

You can you it if you wish, again not required, but you will find your own preference after awhile. Any septic safe Toilet Paper if fine too it does not have to be RV toilet paper ........... in any case use plenty of water when flushing. Our dealer suggests using a liquid , and not drop ins but it a matter of opinion.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by Hollyse

Does anyone use anything to cover their windows/vents to keep cold air out in the winter?

We do not but we rarely camp under 32 degrees. There are vent covers and insulation available if you feel that you need it.

[rsdata]

Hollyse...

Leaving in a week to head to OR in a new to me RV. So overwhelmed with how to determine what I need to have and how things work, etc. The RV did not come with any manuals

I feel some pain for you... new to a used RV and traveling in the winter on a long trip can be daunting...

others on here arguing that you need wheel chocks and EMS units are going a little overboard in my opinion for a newbie who is going to travel within a week...

First, use the campground facilities (bathroom) as much as possible and learn a bit about your bathroom systems before counting on them full-time.

Almost every park has 30A electric... and often 15A electric also. So maybe just a 50 foot heavy duty extension cord for emergency purposes. You probably already have many of the adapters that you MAY need from the previous owner. A small 1500 watt electric heater for emergency purposes ( $20) may be a lifesaver on a cold night.

Stop with your RV to a good auto repair place ( having made an inquiry BEFORE you go there) and have them do a GOOD safety check on the RV battery, tires, brakes and the spare tire also BEFORE getting on the road for such a long drive to make sure you are safe driving to your next destination.

Do a little driveway camping to get familiar with spending the night in the rig.

Have fun, stay safe and keep within the speed limit while driving. You will learn lots in the next days and weeks about your rig and you can then ask specific questions.