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12-14-2020, 08:22 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Southern MN
Posts: 479
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I use 6x6 wood about 12" long with handles. Still need to adjust stabilizers next day if on soft ground from recent rain. Much better to have somthing under the scissor jack feet. Began with 2x10's but most cracked in time. Also used a deck stain on the 6x6 for some weather protection.
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12-17-2020, 07:39 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
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I use old brake rotors off my Durango and the cordless drill or cordless impact (whichever is handier).
__________________
K8ZW
2015 Ram 3500 - 2008 FR Flagstaff
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12-17-2020, 08:20 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 41
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Scissor jacks
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones12
Excellent point.
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I always assumed the further you lower the jack, the less supportive they would be, but some engineer says just the opposite. I have found the trailer is very supported by following his idea and one can carry less cribbage.
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12-17-2020, 08:28 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody
X2. The longer the extension of the jacks (or stabilizers) the more it will wobble. I use the plastic stacking blocks.
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I also assumed this but an engineer on a trailer forum said the lower the jack, the more stable it is. Tried it and agree with him. Also need to carry less cribbage.
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12-17-2020, 08:49 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: In the snow belt
Posts: 397
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I recently replaced mine on my 5th wheel Toy Hauler. They were originally located on the very end and got bent pretty bad on some uneven terrain at an off road park. So when I replaced them I located them about 2' behind the rear wheels. Works great and no worries about bending them again. The manufacture told me in an email that scissors jacks are there strongest at the half way position. I use 6 x 6s to support the jacks. I raise them up and down with my M18 Milwaukee 1/2" impact. Work's quick.
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12-17-2020, 10:32 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 374
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I replaced the short jacks with longer ones so I would not need block, etc.
If in a soft or muddy area, I use one 12x12 piece cut from a perforated horse wash mat.
They don't rot or split, you aren't tempted to use them for firewood, and when you are ready to move, one shake gets rid of the mud, sand, etc.
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12-18-2020, 08:06 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 132
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Correct answer to leveling - do not use stabilizers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampy
Dave, Those scissor jacks are just stabilizers to keep the RV from rocking or bouncing, not leveling jacks and really aren't strong enough to jack up a 5th wheel or trailer.
For side to side leveling, you should be using wood planks under the wheels or some of those Lynx or Camco Leveler Lego style blocks. Front to rear is leveled with the front jack. If you raise the RV with the scissor jacks, it may hold it, but you run the risk of the RV falling and tearing up the jacks and possibly bending the frame.The leveling blocks are made for holding the weight of the RV and only require a few minutes extra to install. When I use them, I get the RV in position then back up another foot. placing the levelers in front of each tire on the low side and using my wheel chock at the front of the leveler pad, then just pull forward a foot and I'm level. You can make small pyramids with them for additional height. They don't slide around like the wood planks usually do ... even on concrete.
If the site is dirt and not well packed, I'll use either wood planks or the leveler pads under the scissor jacks so that they don't work loose and the RV starts bouncing and rocking. I carry a wooden section of 6"x 6" about 2 feet long that I place under the tongue jack. That will keep it from settling on soft dirt as well.
Hope that helps. Good Rving ................ Swampy
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This is the correct answer. It took me a while to "get" that the stabilizers are only minor assists and the "real" leveling is done by using the tires and tongue jack. I actually go around after the trailer has been leveled and sitting a while when its on dirt, to make sure there is not too much settling putting pressure on the scissors jacks - I don't want them to bend and become unusable because of too much pressure.
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12-19-2020, 07:45 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 69
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Scissor jacks are not stabilizers, no matter what the box says. What you want is a good heavy "c" jack. they have two connection points on the frame and are much more solid. bal #23231 is one of the better, there is no wobble in the jack, like a scissor with all the joints in a line.
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01-10-2021, 08:32 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delseb
I always assumed the further you lower the jack, the less supportive they would be, but some engineer says just the opposite. I have found the trailer is very supported by following his idea and one can carry less cribbage.
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This is the same thing the manufacturer of the Steadyfast system told me. I went from 6x6’s to 2x6’s. More room for my toys.
__________________
2019 Heritage Glen 282RK
2014 F-150 Screw 4x4 3.5EB
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01-10-2021, 11:52 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 212
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DIY blocks
2x12 or 2x10, depends on the need, I cut mine 16” long, I think 12” long would be minimal to maintain stability, I also purchased 3/16 x 8” lag screws, pre-drill and lag on side of the groove, I can see due to the wood grains it will eventually split. These really save on space and weight. I paid $19 for a 2x12x8 foot long, that is a cheap 12” rise block.
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01-10-2021, 01:58 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Right Half of OR
Posts: 593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel.mullins4
2x12 or 2x10, depends on the need, I cut mine 16” long, I think 12” long would be minimal to maintain stability, I also purchased 3/16 x 8” lag screws, pre-drill and lag on side of the groove, I can see due to the wood grains it will eventually split. These really save on space and weight. I paid $19 for a 2x12x8 foot long, that is a cheap 12” rise block.
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OK, what did you do? I'm trying to picture how you use an 8" lag screw in a 2x12x16" board to save space and better stabilize your trailer. What groove are you referring to? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand what made your setup better.
__________________
Greg 'n Deb
2020 R-POD 195 HRE
'17 Tacoma 3.5L,'07 Tundra 5.7L w/ tow pkgs.
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01-10-2021, 03:39 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 212
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DIY blocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Sifter
OK, what did you do? I'm trying to picture how you use an 8" lag screw in a 2x12x16" board to save space and better stabilize your trailer. What groove are you referring to? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand what made your setup better.
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I have pictures posted earlier in this thread, you can see the cut out that runs halfway through the 2x12, which is the slot that holds the 2 together, I placed the lags one on each side of the cut, because the cut is only 7” it becomes week due to the wood grain, If you ever noticed when you buy wood the ends have developed a split, with age short pieces will eventually split in half, you will need a long 3/16 drill bit to pre-drill for the lag screw, if any splitting does occur I think the lag screw will hold tis 2x12 together
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01-10-2021, 07:48 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 212
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Lag screw location
I was having troubles attaching the pic for some reason, hope it goes through, I think the pic is better than words, the 2 x 12 in back is the end with cracks in grain, I chop that off and do not use.
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01-10-2021, 10:25 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Right Half of OR
Posts: 593
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Gottcha. My bad, I confused the comment above about extending the jacks all the way and couldn't picture what you needed 8" lag screws for. Your additional info will make my 2x10 scraps more serviceable tho' so all is not lost. Thanks.
__________________
Greg 'n Deb
2020 R-POD 195 HRE
'17 Tacoma 3.5L,'07 Tundra 5.7L w/ tow pkgs.
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