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Old 03-14-2020, 06:02 PM   #41
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They have to be corrugated to prevent crushing. Put a section of black soft foam pipe insulation over the lip. It is split down the length and you can pop in right on. The rubbery stuff, not the stuff that looks like pool noodle foam.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:45 AM   #42
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We haven't been able to camp yet due to the weather. Didn't about noise of moving during the night with the corrugated hose but I'm sure it's a reality. What if you put a towel over the sil? Padding may help reduce the noise.
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That looks exactly like our new Salem Cruise Lite setup. I got to test this out last weekend in our shake-out trip. The only problem I had was the air tube would scrape back and forth over the sill as I moved. The tube is corrugated and made noise, which my wife quickly made note of. I covered the sill with a shirt which worked ok. Do they make non-corrugated tubes? I've used the same supplies for years so I don't know.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:46 AM   #43
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Sounds like a great idea
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They have to be corrugated to prevent crushing. Put a section of black soft foam pipe insulation over the lip. It is split down the length and you can pop in right on. The rubbery stuff, not the stuff that looks like pool noodle foam.
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:24 PM   #44
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A doctor who used to visit our clients told me the reason its supposed to be lower is so if you happen to roll over and pull the machine it doesnt hit you or dump all the water into the hose and blow it into your lungs! Also helps to keep condensation building up in your hose!
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:32 PM   #45
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It seems as if mfr's are trying to phase out 12v outlets, assuming USB is good enough. I had to add a 12vdc outlet by bed too. Recommend turning off humidifier heat and heated hose, those things tear through batteries. Use passive humidification (still put a little water in tank, it will still add a little humidity as air blows past). Typically, it's a battle keeping indoor humidity down anyway, unless windows are open or running dehumidifier. Why add to the problem.
I have seen outlet boxes with 12v and 2usb. You can just run a fused wire right to your battery and it splits the voltage for you! Standard wall outlet size too. Amazon has them.
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Old 03-23-2020, 11:06 PM   #46
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That looks exactly like our new Salem Cruise Lite setup. I got to test this out last weekend in our shake-out trip. The only problem I had was the air tube would scrape back and forth over the sill as I moved. The tube is corrugated and made noise, which my wife quickly made note of. I covered the sill with a shirt which worked ok. Do they make non-corrugated tubes? I've used the same supplies for years so I don't know.

Check with your CPAP supplier. I know ResMed makes a hose cover that solves the noise issue. For us, it was the cat playing with it. Ours was about $15.
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Old 03-24-2020, 01:19 AM   #47
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Nice! Will have to check into it. Thanks
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Old 03-24-2020, 01:22 AM   #48
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Found this one just doing a quick search Click image for larger version

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Old 03-24-2020, 09:41 AM   #49
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I have seen outlet boxes with 12v and 2usb. You can just run a fused wire right to your battery and it splits the voltage for you! Standard wall outlet size too. Amazon has them.

I wound up installing a little panel that has 12v outlet, a voltage gauge, and a power switch that powers it all down. I tapped into a 12v line I found behind the nightstand. I already had USB ports since the trailer is a 2019.
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:47 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
It seems as if mfr's are trying to phase out 12v outlets, assuming USB is good enough. I had to add a 12vdc outlet by bed too. Recommend turning off humidifier heat and heated hose, those things tear through batteries. Use passive humidification (still put a little water in tank, it will still add a little humidity as air blows past). Typically, it's a battle keeping indoor humidity down anyway, unless windows are open or running dehumidifier. Why add to the problem.
i do the same but more often do not use humidifier at all in the summer.
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:50 AM   #51
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I ran 2 14 gauge circuits for mine and DW machines. Bought 2 12 v to 24 powers supplies for the Resmed S9 units we have. The circuits run right to the batteries with separate fuses for each. Peak draw with Humidity at half level and full back pressure was close to 10 amps at 12 vdc. Hence two lines just in case.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:28 AM   #52
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I ran 2 14 gauge circuits for mine and DW machines. Bought 2 12 v to 24 powers supplies for the Resmed S9 units we have. The circuits run right to the batteries with separate fuses for each. Peak draw with Humidity at half level and full back pressure was close to 10 amps at 12 vdc. Hence two lines just in case.



Was that draw the total for both machines? My Phillips REMStar only takes about 4 amps or so with the humidifier turned on "3" (out of 5), and almost nothing with the humidifier off.


I also ran a fused 12V outlet to each side of the bed, I attached them directly to the same post where the battery cables tie in to the camper's 12V system. IIRC, I used 12ga wire, LOL, had to use Blue and Yellow, because that was all I could find at the time. I guess there was a run on red and black wire for some reason
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Old 03-27-2020, 04:33 PM   #53
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I was just looking into this for my uncle. The first thing to think about is energy loss from switching between AC and DC. A good rule of thumb is that you lose 50% each time you switch. The CPAP machines that I have seen run DC. So, the 110v AC power supply really is just outputting 24v DC and using half the energy. Than gets much worst if you run an inverter to just power your CPAP. That would be going from DC to AC and then back to DC. It is better to just spend the money on the 12v power supply for your CPAP. If you have the money, you can get a battery for the CPAP machines for $300+. A battery charge is good for about one night. The bonus to the battery is it can also work as a back up. So, if the power goes out, you do not get woke up to a dead CPAP machine.
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Old 03-27-2020, 04:38 PM   #54
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The 12 v power supplies are under $100. Not much of a drain on RV batteries.
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:41 AM   #55
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Just stumbled on this thread and I just wanted to double check and be clear. We have a Roo 21DK and will most likely be camping without electric hookup. We do have the cigarette 12V adapter. Am I understanding if I buy the correct cord for my CPAP I can run the machine fine off the battery that way? Any issues with draining TT battery overnight? Also thinking the cord most likely won’t reach from kitchen to the bed, do they sell longer ones or is there a way to extend? Thanks
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:18 PM   #56
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Just stumbled on this thread and I just wanted to double check and be clear. We have a Roo 21DK and will most likely be camping without electric hookup. We do have the cigarette 12V adapter. Am I understanding if I buy the correct cord for my CPAP I can run the machine fine off the battery that way? Any issues with draining TT battery overnight? Also thinking the cord most likely wonít reach from kitchen to the bed, do they sell longer ones or is there a way to extend? Thanks
I don't think one FLA battery, especially a cheap 12v dual purpose marine battery, will be enough.
You need a dual battery setup or spring for a single AGM or Lithium battery.
How will you recharge the battery the next morning since it sounds like you're dry camping.
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:57 PM   #57
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My wife and I have been using the Resmed A10's for years while camping. I installed 12V plugs on both sides of the bed and bought the adapters from Resmed. We have never run the batteries down yet. About a year ago we switched to the Resmed Minis for travel. They are significantly smaller, lighter and easy to carry, especially on airplanes.
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Old 06-18-2020, 11:43 AM   #58
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Just stumbled on this thread and I just wanted to double check and be clear. We have a Roo 21DK and will most likely be camping without electric hookup. We do have the cigarette 12V adapter. Am I understanding if I buy the correct cord for my CPAP I can run the machine fine off the battery that way? Any issues with draining TT battery overnight? Also thinking the cord most likely wonít reach from kitchen to the bed, do they sell longer ones or is there a way to extend? Thanks
Yes, you will be able to run your cpap from the house battery, assuming that you have the proper cable. You may want to install a 12V port in your bedroom, though.

I run my Phillips REMStar 60 on the house battery, and it pulls it down about 25% from full overnight. I do NOT use the humidifier when in the camper, unless hooked up to shore power. The humidifier is a power hog.


So, yes, it can definitely be done... but you will have to have a way to recharge your battery... generator, solar.
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Old 06-18-2020, 11:49 AM   #59
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Turn the heat off to the humidifier, and cut the heat to the hose if you have it. Saves a ton of power. Low humidity in a camper is generally not a problem unless you are in the desert.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:42 PM   #60
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Yes, you will be able to run your cpap from the house battery, assuming that you have the proper cable. You may want to install a 12V port in your bedroom, though.

I run my Phillips REMStar 60 on the house battery, and it pulls it down about 25% from full overnight. I do NOT use the humidifier when in the camper, unless hooked up to shore power. The humidifier is a power hog.


So, yes, it can definitely be done... but you will have to have a way to recharge your battery... generator, solar.
Thanks for the response. Leaning towards adding a 2nd 12v battery to help out and then just need to figure out Solar or Generator. Trailer is pre wired for the Zamp Solar. Was looking around their website and seems their portable 140w would work with my size trailer. Any idea on how long that setup would take to recharge batteries vs. a generator while boondocking?
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