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Old 10-09-2020, 05:53 AM   #21
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wyoming, Iowa
Posts: 244
Here in Iowa where it gets much colder then where you are I winterize with the pink stuff. Like to see pink coming out of all the water outlets so I know that no water is left hiding somewhere. Our fifth wheel is never unplugged while it's resting in the shed and even with the cheaper deep cell battery that came with the rig we have never had our battery water level drop. We take off for a month during the late winter to Key West and just de winterize when we get far enough south. If it's still cold when we return, we winterize again on our way north.
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Old 10-09-2020, 06:31 AM   #22
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Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 2,547
If you're only concerned with the battery simply disconnect the battery(s) completely and they'll go months before needing a recharge, especially in very cold weather. In NE Ohio I fully charged my batteries before putting the Roo in a barn at the fairgrounds in November. Disconnected the battery and they came out at 12.3vDC in April, about 65% charged. Same for my boat. These came up to 100% with an overnight charge in the spring.

The battery "disconnect" supplied with many recent campers may not completely disconnect the battery as some "codes" require the LP detector inside to always have power. A proper disconnect severs the Negative wire from the battery or battery pack. Should only be one (1) wire on that terminal with a cable to the frame.

I use distilled de-ionized water in all my batteries. More expensive than grocery store distilled water for your iron but you don't need massive amounts of it.

-- Chuck
2006 Roo 23SS behind a 2017 Ford Expedition
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Old 10-09-2020, 07:13 AM   #23
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Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 2,323
Something tells me leaving an rv on the factory installed converter might be too much.

I would run the converter a day a month maybe.

Wet cell batteries fully charged would be fine for 3-5 months.

Just me. No data. But, whenever a charger is on there is some water loss.
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Old 10-12-2020, 06:59 PM   #24
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Join Date: May 2020
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winterize it

I also live in that area and leave it plugged in had one seasonal in Gettysburg Pa. for 4 years and i winterized during winter months even plugged in with electric heaters on. Winterize your unit it gets to cold it will freeze and break things. It only takes about 1 hour and a couple of gals of antifreeze that's cheap vs repairing the plumbing. if you go to Fl. just DE winterize that's cheap insurance
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Old 10-12-2020, 07:18 PM   #25
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Is it ok to leave the batteries in the unit if I keep it plugged in to a 30 amp plug?
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Old 10-12-2020, 07:22 PM   #26
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Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 5,600
Originally Posted by Robert Maloskey View Post
Is it ok to leave the batteries in the unit if I keep it plugged in to a 30 amp plug?
A little information on the specifics of your rig will help, but most newer RV units regulate the voltage for the most part so as to not overcharge, but you have to keep an eye on the water level of your batteries when plugged in for very long periods. joined in 2017, and this is your first post?

Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD over a 2017 Ford E450
and if we ever need it, can be pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain toad (4 wheels down)
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count.
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:22 PM   #27
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This is my first post. I have a 2018 forest river wildwood TT.
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:49 PM   #28
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 74
plugged in year round

I live in Tucson and it freezes occasionally in the winter. On those days I plug in a small electric fan / heater, but I I'm not camping it is plugged in all the time at my house. Use the fridge for overflow.
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:24 PM   #29
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
Posts: 582
I live in VA...on the coast. I winterize every year. I blow out the FW system then refill with RV antifreeze. Over the years I have found all the problems.
1 Open the water heater by pass valve...water sits in the line ,will freeze and crack the valve body
2 Remove and dry the water pump non return valve/filter assy. same as above.
3 Blow out your black tank rinse line... same as above
4 Drain the water tank and pump AF thru the water pump.

I also plug in to the house on a 15A circuit and put an oil filled radiator in the MH. I set it as low as possible but over freezing usually about 45 degrees.
John & Susan, Olivia the dachshund
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Hampton Roads VA
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Old 10-12-2020, 10:22 PM   #30
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 104
Keep it simple

Living in the Chicago area winterizing is important to me. If the unit is not going to be used for several months I see no reason to keep it plugged in or heated. Why pay for the electricity/propane for an RV thatís not going to move for awhile.

If you just blow out the water lines donít forget about the drains under the sinks and shower. They have traps that hold water. If you canít blow them out add antifreeze to keep them from freezing. The toilet, too. Personally, if find it simpler to just run antifreeze through it all.

I bought and wired into the unit a Battery Tender. Itís a maintenance charger meant to be left on indefinitely keeping the battery at a safe charged level. The small about of electricity it uses is insignificant. I donít remove the battery, just plug in the charger and walk away.
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Old 10-13-2020, 12:23 AM   #31
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Location: Southern Arizona
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As TitanMike said make sure the toilet valve is drained. It only takes a few seconds to step on the pedal, but somehow in SE Arizona we have had that valve crack twice over the winter. You'd think we would learn by now.

Happiness is just a ride away!
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:46 AM   #32
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Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 34
Blow out

Sometimes I will only blow out the water system really good. Shore water hookup, black flush hookup, drain lines faucets and so on. Just remember if you only blow out be sure to get excess water out of the pump!
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Old 10-13-2020, 08:46 AM   #33
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Location: Where ever I unhitch. Currently in Vermont.
Posts: 55
I stay at times in VA about 15 miles north of Richmond...and we can freeze..deep. 5* nights and 20* days; especially Late Dec thru mid March. You need to winterize. Or, you replace your all your sink faucets, outside shower and if you leave your water hose and sewer lines connected with no heat tape (winterize!) it will be April before they will thaw. Just saying.
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:10 AM   #34
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Location: North Alabama
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If I am home in North Alabama through winter months, actually if at home at any time, my camper is plugged into shore power year round. As far as winterizing, I only drain my water heater every other year, when I pull my anode for inspection and replacement, if needed. I generally blow out my water lines with about 40 psi compressed air and have never used the pink rv anti-freeze except to pour in the sink p-traps and some in the toilet bowl. I do not drain completely any of my water tanks. I like to keep about 5 gallons of water (just a guess) in my black and gray tanks.
As far as temperature control, I keep my "heat on" temp on auto and set to 45 degrees. That has always circulated enough warm air during occasional freezing temperatures to prevent any problems. I generally average using one single 30 lb propane tank for the entire winter season, the heat pump runs just enough to keep it "exercised".
The main reason for keeping mine plugged in year round is that I keep a dehumidifier in the camper, which I find to be necessary in our humid southeast. That also gives me an excuse to go out and check on things every few days, to empty the collection reservoir. I have never had a problem with maintenance on my batteries by leaving it plugged in all the time. I do occasionally switch off my battery disconnect for a week to allow my batteries to draw down a bit, and then go through the charge process again to return to float status. My opinion is that it helps to exercise the batteries and not just leave them to float forever, but just my opinion.

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Old 10-13-2020, 11:13 AM   #35
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 71
Plugged in year round

I drain the hot water heater, open all of the faucets and open the low point drain; leave the faucets and cabinet doors open and run a Pelonis Ceramic heater in there all winter. I also put some antifreeze in the traps. My unit is all sealed up on the underside.
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