Secondhand Purchase fridge mod help?

[Pocaterra83]

Hi, we recently purchased a roo 233s second hand. It has a dometic dmr702 refrigerator in it. On the back of the unit, a aftermarket plug and switch are mounted to the fridge vent. It appears that the wires have been spliced and bypassed the AC line, directly from the switch to what i'm guessing is the boiler?

Does anyone have any insight into why someone would do this and what it's for?

Thanks in advance!

[Mr. Dan]

Is it possible this switch/these wires are to operate a cooling fan(s)?

[Iggy]

Plug it into 120 volt AC power and turn the switch on and off and listen for a fan.
Or
contact the original owner and ask.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Pocaterra83

Hi, we recently purchased a roo 233s second hand. It has a dometic dmr702 refrigerator in it. On the back of the unit, a aftermarket plug and switch are mounted to the fridge vent. It appears that the wires have been spliced and bypassed the AC line, directly from the switch to what i'm guessing is the boiler?

Does anyone have any insight into why someone would do this and what it's for?

Thanks in advance!

Hope the control board didn't go bad and the original owner was too cheap to replace it. If that is the case, he bypassed the controls and the electric element was always heating as long as it was plugged in

[Iggy]

Scrapper you know that is a good possibility. Good call.
Maybe owner just wanted to control the electric element manually.

Pocaterra83 can you take a picture of what terminals the wires come off of the refrigerator control board.
That will tell us a lot more.
Here is a schematic of your control board

[Scrapper]

I learn over the Memorial weekend that our fridge was kicking out of electric mode into gas mode. Since we didn't leave the gas valves on while we were not there for the previous 2 weeks the fridge was in fault and not cooling. After resetting it back to auto it would run for a while then switch back to gas. After suspecting the control board I started doing some research on the web. I found on a rv repair site the first thing to do when suspecting the control board is pull the wires from the control board and reconnect them. I was very surprised when it worked perfectly.


I don't want it to run off gas as I was working on finding where the gas is leaking from. I could a faint gas odor every so often so I started leaving the gas off. That's a story I will star a new thread on when the new hose comes in and I get it changed.

[Scrapper]

Another thought, take a ohm reading across the prongs of the cord hanging out. If you get around 44 ohms it is connected to the heater element.

[Pocaterra83]

It is looking like Scrapper is likely correct. The RV place is telling us it's a faulty board. Initially they told us it was a faulty battery and charged us a fortune to upgrade those, so i don't have a lot of confidence in them.

In summary:

-Furnace works on shore, but blows cold and wont light on 12v
-Fridge turn on (both 12v and shore) but won't light and quickly begins flashing all 3 temp light (EO error code).
-we have been able to trick the fridge into getting cold by pulling the 12v fuse inside and plugging in the mysterious extra cable.
-Hot water heater, stove, water pump etc all operate fine on either 12v or shore.

the trailer is currently at the nearby shop. I'll try and sneak over there in a bit and try and take a look at where the terminal tables come off the board.