Seeking advice on leveling on a sloped RV pad

[myxkp]

Originally Posted by JuryDuty

We were so excited to find a house with an RV pad so we don't have to pay storage fees...only to discover it's a bit steep when actually using it!

I have X-chocks between the wheels, but the ground is a fine gravel that does allow some movement overall, which makes me nervous. Maybe it's heavy enough that I don't need to be, but I'd rather be cautious than sorry.

My first thought is to get some concrete blocks to put under the tongue jack and maybe dig down a little bit to stabilize them. And I could add rubber chocks to the wheels too. Then put up the stabilizers?

Anyway, I'm not too handy when it comes to building, so would love to hear some solutions "anybody" could do/buy to keep this safe.

First things first - get the tongue jack down. Those are stabilizers are not levelers - look at the bright yellow pieces on either side of each stabilizer mechanism - little thin metal is not found on big trailer frame levelers.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by myxkp

First things first - get the tongue jack down. Those are stabilizers are not levelers - look at the bright yellow pieces on either side of each stabilizer mechanism - little thin metal is not found on big trailer frame levelers.

How wrong you are, this unit has the Lippert Leveling System from the factory!The front jack retracts while going into "Auto Level Mode "! Read the manual! Youroo! !

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by aircommuter

I can’t tell by the pictures, but I would just have it regraded and some base rock or even concrete put in there then you never have to mess around with all that other stuff. Just a possible solution that is done once. I was a grading contractor at one point so I think that way first.

X2.
Hiring someone (perhaps a landscaper) to bring in rock and level that site would give you a good base.
Looks like some of that rock has either settled or eroded away. Since you live near Ft. Worth, it's probably been eroded with all that rain you've had. Gravel unfortunately requires maintenance.

[Wolverine 1945]

Originally Posted by rsdata

add the four rubber chocks from HF to each of the wheels and use 2x8 wood to pull up on to level side to side under the low side wheels, then level front to back using wood under the front tongue jack... using 4 rubber chocks will make it unmovable... use the stab jacks if you are inside moving around otherwise leave them up...

If you can plug-in for power great, otherwise disconnect + lead from battery to prevent it from going dead, take it inside, or put a batt charger on it for long term storage

you can order using harborfreight dot com without going to the store...

Right On !!!
I used to leave our TT low in the front in the winter for drainage !!!

[Brother Les]

Get a good warranty on your 'levelers' and find someone to fix them when they bend and break. You will soon strip out the threads on the moving threaded rods and bend the leg supports putting that type of pressure on them.

Nice feature now, but in the long run with the unit fully loaded and you and others inside moving around, your asking for a lot of grief when the electronics and mechanical features start to go south.

'Lippert' knows that the 'stabilizers' do not 'stabilize' and many people end up added after market scissor jacks on all four corners for supporting the units and 'stabilizing' the units. If this 'auto-levelers' is their solution for Lipperts failed 'stabilizers', I can see many failure points already.


imo

[youroo]

Boy I hope Forest River doesn't start to install things like a Touch Pad from Lippert that controls Many things like"lights/awning /water heater /leveling systems /slides" all from one pad! Oh wait they already do this! Youroo! !

[Brother Les]

We all bow down to the great wisdom of Lippert Components https://www.lci1.com/ , Never have made a mistake or a bad/failed component.

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

We all bow down to the great wisdom of Lippert Components https://www.lci1.com/ , Never have made a mistake or a bad/failed component.

Do we blame Lippert? Or do we blame the manufacturer that puts two 3500 pound rated axles under a camper that weighs 7800 pounds?

[muddyrode]

i would find some 4x6 or 6x6 wood post and cut them up to put under the tonuge to help stabilize it also

[youroo]

Originally Posted by muddyrode

i would find some 4x6 or 6x6 wood post and cut them up to put under the tonuge to help stabilize it also

Since this is a system where the tongue jack is retracted during the auto leveling process it is Not Needed,just like a fifth wheel not needing a tri pod under the hitch! Youroo! !

[llr]

Originally Posted by muddyrode

i would find some 4x6 or 6x6 wood post and cut them up to put under the tonuge to help stabilize it also

It can't be done with the levelers. It retracts the tongue jack during the leveling

[JohnD10]

There is no reason to go out and buy all kinds of stuff to 'fix' something that ain't broke!

I would think that the RV pad has an incline for a reason...for water to run away from the house!

So I would suggest NOT leveling out the stones as it is most likely the way it is supposed to be!

As for parking it there...just level and block your RV like you would in a state park campsite!

And I would, indeed, put the tounge jack down on the ground.

I parked my campers for 20 years on a stone pad like that next to my garage in Colorado and I had a system down for leveling it out and it was the same each and every time.

Matter of fact, most of the pieces I just left at home so I didn't have to keep using stuff from my leveling supplies I kept in the trailers!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

There is no reason to go out and buy all kinds of stuff to 'fix' something that ain't broke!

I would think that the RV pad has an incline for a reason...for water to run away from the house!

So I would suggest NOT leveling out the stones as it is most likely the way it is supposed to be!

As for parking it there...just level and block your RV like you would in a state park campsite!

And I would, indeed, put the tounge jack down on the ground.

I parked my campers for 20 years on a stone pad like that next to my garage in Colorado and I had a system down for leveling it out and it was the same each and every time.

Matter of fact, most of the pieces I just left at home so I didn't have to keep using stuff from my leveling supplies I kept in the trailers!

By giving the tongue jack lowering advice I take it your Heartland or other trailers did Not have/had the "Lippert 3.0 Leveling System? Youroo! !

[aircommuter]

One wouldn’t grade the pad to dead level, just a lesser slope so it wouldn’t require fooling around with the jacks everytime. Parking lots are always designed with some slope or they wouldn’t drain. You could also make a 4 way crowned area where you want the wheels to set.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by youroo

By giving the tongue jack lowering advice I take it your Heartland or other trailers did Not have/had the "Lippert 3.0 Leveling System? Youroo! !

They didn't...but that doesn't matter.

Once leveled...even with the Lippert System...I'd still drop the tongue jack for added stability!

[crasmussen]

Depending on your location and the winter weather conditions, I leave my trailer slopping forward or backward, reason to facilitate water runoff no puddles on roof, also I block and use the trailer jack for extra stability, as far as the wheels/tires are concerned take a look at the following wheel chocks they work!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlXsECP9_ok

also place planks or plywood under tires, use stabilizer jacks with wood chocks for extra stability.

[katkt]

Originally Posted by rsdata

add the four rubber chocks from HF to each of the wheels and use 2x8 wood to pull up on to level side to side under the low side wheels, then level front to back using wood under the front tongue jack... using 4 rubber chocks will make it unmovable... use the stab jacks if you are inside moving around otherwise leave them up...

If you can plug-in for power great, otherwise disconnect + lead from battery to prevent it from going dead, take it inside, or put a batt charger on it for long term storage

you can order using harborfreight dot com without going to the store...

This is pretty much what I do. I have two of the 2x8 5’ boards I carry with me. Depending, I can use one, or both to level side to side. I have a 6x8 wood block I use under the tongue jack.
I use my stabilizer jacks if I’m going to be playing camp at the house. :^)

[shelkol]

Originally Posted by crasmussen

Depending on your location and the winter weather conditions, I leave my trailer slopping forward or backward, reason to facilitate water runoff no puddles on roof, also I block and use the trailer jack for extra stability, as far as the wheels/tires are concerned take a look at the following wheel chocks they work!

also place planks or plywood under tires, use stabilizer jacks with wood chocks for extra stability.

The wheel 'chocks' shown are for chocking the wheels after the trailer has been leveled - read the manual. I didn't read the manual - Chocked the wheels, leveled front to back and had the trailer chase me down the slope bending my stabilizer jacks!

I also forgot to remove them once when hitching up. Drove forward - they popped right out.

They do a great job to keep the trailer from rocking once leveled.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by shelkol

The wheel 'chocks' shown are for chocking the wheels after the trailer has been leveled - read the manual. I didn't read the manual - Chocked the wheels, leveled front to back and had the trailer chase me down the slope bending my stabilizer jacks!

I also forgot to remove them once when hitching up. Drove forward - they popped right out.

They do a great job to keep the trailer from rocking once leveled.

You must not have had them tight enough.

You really need to put some elbow grease into the last few turns of the screw.

Very first thing I do when I park the trailer after getting it where I want it is to put the X-chocks in...always!

I've been using the X-chocks for years and they have always been reliable for holding my TT's or current 5'ver in place while I unhitch.

And when I drop my 5'ver back on the hitch and do my pull test...those X-chocks will hold my 5'ver in place (within reason, of course).

Now, I do also back myself up with regular chocks along with the X-chocks, and the X-chocks do need to be checked and tightened again after a couple of hours when the tires cool off.

[shelkol]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

You must not have had them tight enough.

You really need to put some elbow grease into the last few turns of the screw.

Very first thing I do when I park the trailer after getting it where I want it is to put the X-chocks in...always!

I've been using the X-chocks for years and they have always been reliable for holding my TT's or current 5'ver in place while I unhitch.

And when I drop my 5'ver back on the hitch and do my pull test...those X-chocks will hold my 5'ver in place (within reason, of course).

Now, I do also back myself up with regular chocks along with the X-chocks, and the X-chocks do need to be checked and tightened again after a couple of hours when the tires cool off.

I spoke with the factory rep at BAL. He said to not rely upon them as the only chock used. I have also heard of the arms bending when too tight and the trailer wants to move.