Solar charger advice

[mjones12]

My Coachmen Apex 249 came unexpectedly pre-wired for a solar charger. I would like suggestions on what type of charger would fit my needs. As I always camp with full hookups, my battery almost always shows fully charged, so I am looking for something to use at home only to keep the battery topped up while I listen to the radio, maybe run the furnace and use a few of the LED lights. I don't have access to shore power where I park at home.

As the photo indicates, my system is rated for 20 amps, and I assume the connection is fairly standard.

Any suggestions on what I should be shopping for? Thanks.

[Flybob]

Most of these solar ready features are simply a connection on the RV and a wire to somewhere near the battery. You will need a controller and a panel. If you only plan to maintain the battery at home and not use it for boon docking, you can get a 10A controller and 50-100A panel. The small battery maintainer panels 10-15 watts are virtually useless. Look at renogy.com. If you ever plan to boon dock, go for a 30A controller so all you need to do is add more panels. Depending on where you part the TT you can simply ground mount the panel using PVC. Check the polarity of the connector on the TT. Some are reversed from the standard.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Most of these solar ready features are simply a connection on the RV and a wire to somewhere near the battery. You will need a controller and a panel. If you only plan to maintain the battery at home and not use it for boon docking, you can get a 10A controller and 50-100A panel. The small battery maintainer panels 10-15 watts are virtually useless. Look at renogy.com. If you ever plan to boon dock, go for a 30A controller so all you need to do is add more panels. Depending on where you part the TT you can simply ground mount the panel using PVC. Check the polarity of the connector on the TT. Some are reversed from the standard.

How does the "rated for 20 amps" factor into this? Thanks.

[boondocking]

"Rated for 20 amp" means the pre-installed wiring/connector are good for 20 amps worth of solar panels, about 250-300 watts worth of 12v solar panels.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by boondocking

"Rated for 20 amp" means the pre-installed wires are good for 20 amps worth of solar panels, about 250-300 watts worth of 12v solar panels.

Got it. Thanks.

[wharfrat48]

I would guess the "20 amps" is the rating of the wiring/connectors. This is plenty for what you want to use it for (a 100W panel will put out about 5amps)

[Flybob]

Not certain what is driving the limit. May be the wiring to the battery. It looks like their kit is a panel with a built in controller. Several reasons why these are not ideal. 1. The distance from the controller to the battery should be as short as possible ( next to battery is ideal). Expansion is more expensive. These kits are added to RVs as marketing gimmicks as well as way to lock you into their system.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Not certain what is driving the limit. May be the wiring to the battery. It looks like their kit is a panel with a built in controller. Several reasons why these are not ideal. 1. The distance from the controller to the battery should be as short as possible ( next to battery is ideal). Expansion is more expensive. These kits are added to RVs as marketing gimmicks as well as way to lock you into their system.

Thanks. I figured as much. A gimmick for me to spend money on.

[Flybob]

check out renogy.com. Panels for about $1/watt for specials. Good equipment and good prices as well as good advise. While you are deciding what to do. Be sure to disconnect negative battery cable while in storage without external power as there are some parasitic current draws that will kill the battery in a few weeks.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by Flybob

check out renogy.com. Panels for about $1/watt for specials. Good equipment and good prices as well as good advise. While you are deciding what to do. Be sure to disconnect negative battery cable while in storage without external power as there are some parasitic current draws that will kill the battery in a few weeks.

Good to know. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[5picker]

Your trailer has a 'Go Power' port.
Coachman and Go Power have teamed up to supply a very basic way of connecting a very simple 'plug & play' solar system.

Other Forest River products use the 'Zamp' brand port & kits.

Visit Go Power's web site and have a look.
GO Power

Again these OEM ports are for very basic systems and often have very thin cables from the ports to the battery. If you are looking to go full blown solar, you'll need to forgo the OEM port and hardwire something better.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Your trailer has a 'Go Power' port.
Coachman and Go Power have teamed up to supply a very basic way of connecting a very simple solar system.

Visit Go Power's web site and have a look.
GO Power

Again these OEM ports are for very basic system and often have very thin cables from the ports to the battery. If you are looking to go full blown solar, you'll need to forgo the OEM port and hardwire something better.

Thanks. I will check it out. Just looking for trickle charge between trips, really. And offsetting some light use of lights, furnace and radio while parked at home.

[ScottBrownstein]

In the old days of TV, radios used to have a connector on the back that said "ready for TV!" Must have connected to the speaker. In this case it just connects to the battery. You can get a connector that fits and use anything that you want. The wire is rated for 20 amps (probably #12) which doesn't mean a lot. As others have said, there are a lot of panels and controllers available that are a lot cheaper. One wrinkle is that you will have to put the controller OUTSIDE the RV since their panels have controllers with them. Or you you could find the wire at the batteries and install a controller there.