Tanks are supposedly “full”

[crusader424]

Hi we have encountered the same issue at times. One thing I have been doing is pouring a 10 lb bag of ice down the toilet and adding a gallon of water when we are departing on a trip.
A buddy of mine told me about this. The thought process is the water and ice will slosh around in the tank and help clean the sensors as you are towing. Seems to help some. However, I have never used the Palmolive dish soap. I may give that a try. We have a Primetime 315RST 5th wheel.

[PokieandBill]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The subject line/Title of this thread Is "Tanks are supposedly full" and your model is not listed in the title.
So I'm confused as to what subject line you're referring to.

OK, this is a warm and fuzzy introduction to the forum. In my post 13 the first line says my model number. Post 15 elaborates on that. I realize I should have gone to the FAQ first to learn how to populate my signature and profile, which I have now done. So, anybody have any tips for my question? TIA and my apologies for the drama.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The subject line/Title of this thread Is "Tanks are supposedly full" and your model is not listed in the title.
So I'm confused as to what subject line you're referring to.

He's referring to the title of his post.



Don't know if that shows on the mobile versions of the site or not.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by PokieandBill

Hi BikenDan, Sorry it's my first post on this forum. I just filled in model info in my profile. In my defense, I did list the model in subject line. Flagstaff 2109DS MicroLite. The bottom is covered.

Just keep in mind... (and this is for everyone)... subject lines on INDIVIDUAL posts within a thread DO NOT show in the mobiles app.(s)

If you are posting pertinent information in your post's subject line that you are expecting everyone to see, those using a mobile app won't see it.

And signature lines don't show in the app either but at least there is the ability to go to the poster's profile and click there to see it.

While I 'try' to use the full web site as much as possible, there are many times the app is my choice just because of where I'm at and what I'm doing at the moment.

The app on a smaller mobile device (such as a phone) is WAY better than trying to use a browser and accessing the full site on that mobile device.

Tablets, not so much but if I'm gonna break out my tablet for this forum, I may as well fire up the laptop since many site functions are NOT available on the app.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

He's referring to the title of his post.

Attachment 220637

Don't know if that shows on the mobile versions of the site or not.

No, that doesn't show up on the Android mobile version, which is all I use.
Might need to alert Tech Support about that.

My apologies to PokieandBill and everyone else.

[PokieandBill]

Originally Posted by bikendan

No, it doesn't show up on the Android mobile version, which is all I use.
Might need to alert Tech Support about that.
My apologies to b and everyone.

I noticed the missing info on my phone this morning. But, Dan, you were correct, at the time of your original comment I hadn't been through the FAQs and finished my profile and sig info, so I'll gladly accept a minor flogging with a wet noodle. I guess I'll try to start a new thread specific to my question. Thanks to all.

[Tundra 2014]

I have been using "Happy Camper" powder in all my tanks. I put the recommended amount in after emptying tanks. I have had the best results, washing the black water tank prior to putting the Anti-Stick in. I add a scoop and a gallon of water to each tank. I agree, w/o going to better sensors and the work to take the hundred screws out of the under belly cover, the sensors are problematic. The Happy Camper is just a simpler (powder version) of a teaspoon of Dawn and Calgon or Downy. I used to use that, same results, less expensive but more to carry. I have had some luck w/ the bio-clean, filling tanks for several days and leaving full in the TX sun for several days.
If I knew a manufacturer was installing better sensors, it would influence my next purchase of a 5 th. wheel. I would take it as a sign that they cared about building a better quality product. I know, fat chance.

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by MT Biker

Our Black tank shows full when empty and empty when full, our grey tank will register what ever it feels like on any given day.

Have the wiring check. My sensors on one tank were wired backwards.

[akf15e]

I'm on RV #5, never had a sensor panel work beyond the first year. Our new Wolfpack sensors quit working accurately after our first trip. I just dump every few days or when the black tanks start "burping" a bit.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by akf15e

I'm on RV #5, never had a sensor panel work beyond the first year. Our new Wolfpack sensors quit working accurately after our first trip. I just dump every few days or when the black tanks start "burping" a bit.

I have to say I've never had a black tank "burp". You'd think that if it's vented properly the contents, being semi-liquid, would seek their own level even if the dump tube extends a ways into the tank.

On all my TT's I've made it a point to remove vent caps and hose down the vent pipe with the solid stream from a nozzle. Mainly because I wanted all "venting" to be up that vent and not back through the toilet.

I realize that plumbing systems vary from TT to TT, I just haven't had by black tank "belch" -----------yet anyway.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by PokieandBill

Hi BikenDan, Sorry it's my first post on this forum. I just filled in model info in my profile. In my defense, I did list the model in subject line. Flagstaff 2109DS MicroLite. The bottom is covered.

Just because no one else has actually answered you and instead debated and lectured your post...sorry, we are usually more helpful than that.

I dont have a microlite and have not yet done the upgrade. I plan to do it eventually but have not found the time yet as it will be a significant task. When I do this is my plan.

1. Use an endoscope to look under chloroplast near tanks around the corners. This will take a few locations to find existing wires and a suitable location to install new sensor. You will need tank depth measurements to know what to order. You will need length/width to get the percentages correct possibly.
2. Pull back chloroplast with a flap from the back cut in U shape so it can be taped back up
3. Remove a tank sensor wire from current system board and tank. Connect the existing tank sensor to the new tank monitor
4. Add new panel near existing panel, this will be difficult due to location complexity for me. Extend the wire to the new panel.

You will have to do for each tank. Depending on if you plan to monitor battery you also need to modify these and if doing LP you will need a whole new wire for that (suggest the mopeka sensors instead).

I have removed part of the chloroplast previously and the screws I removed stripped out the holes so plan to have an alternate solution ready like a bigger screw or some u-bolts and washers if you can get around something or new holes and self tapping screws. Some screws would not come out and I had to cut them with my dremmel. The screws I used to reattach the chloroplast several snapped off when the pilot hole was not large enough halfway in.

Many tanks are wedged in between the beams and use the beams for additional support. This will pose a problem for the sensor placement so beware.

Hope that helps to get you started. I reviewed the install instructions but hopefully someone else that has completed the work can provide more information. If you donit before me post your results.

[IDguy]

Toilet paper not an issue if you don’t put it in the toilet. When available we use the CG toilets for #2. If necessary we use a small lined trash can, with tight top, next to toilet. Learned that approach in Mexico.

That doesn’t solve the inaccurate reading problem but reduces the frequency and severity of inaccurate readings. We do occasionally flush the black tank.

[TitanMike]

Of course there is always this option:



No power required, no buttons to push, sells for about $3, and is always "calibrated and accurate".

Just rinse before storing

[GoneSouth10]

For cleaning the sensors (i.e., when your LED reading in the control panel shows a full black tank even though you've just dumped it), I've found this stuff works like a champ!
https://www.amazon.com/Caravan-Overn...ack+tank+flush

I had not only the mucked up sensors that were giving me the false "full" reading, I also had a NASTY tank order (Full disclosure - the OE indicator was flashing on that one - pure Operator Error. Put the coach in storage after a long trip thinking, "Oh, I'll swing by this weekend and go dump the black tank." Three months later - NASTY. Never make that mistake again!!). At any rate, this product cleaned all the sensors and eliminated a very nasty order problem basically overnight.

[NMWildcat]

If I ever think not using my RV toilet, or not flushing TP and storing the used paper, is the best option, I do believe my RV days would be over. But, to each his own.

I've never understood why the sensors not being completely accurate is such a problem for some. Are mine accurate? No. The bottom (towards empty) lights are rarely accurate. The top light (full), is usually close, and that's really the only one I watch. After you use your RV for awhile, you get a feel for when the tanks are getting full, and I will check the lights to see if they agree.
And what's the worst that can happen? The gray fills up and backs up into the shower or a sink. No biggy. The black fills up and when you flush your toilet, you will notice. So you take care of it. Again, not a big deal.
So no, I'm not going to spend $$$ and time on sensors that are only marginally better. If my sensors never show empty, I will clean my tanks better until they do. Then I won't be upset when I move the RV and they again show 1/3 full when I know they are empty.
As far as fresh tank, yep, fairly accurate. But I know after the lights say full, I can still add about 5 gallons. And when the light first goes to empty, I can easily take one more shower.
I did have one malfunctioning sensor on a new unit, took off the sealed bottom and found a wire that had been pinched.
So, get to know your RV and then you don't have to rely on any indicator lights.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I have to say I've never had a black tank "burp". You'd think that if it's vented properly the contents, being semi-liquid, would seek their own level even if the dump tube extends a ways into the tank.

On all my TT's I've made it a point to remove vent caps and hose down the vent pipe with the solid stream from a nozzle. Mainly because I wanted all "venting" to be up that vent and not back through the toilet.

I realize that plumbing systems vary from TT to TT, I just haven't had by black tank "belch" -----------yet anyway.

Mine burped yesterday. I dumped it. Turned on the tank rinse hose and let it run. Dumped till clean(ish) water came out.


Sensors still show 100% full!! I looked at them just for this post, cause I bet it's been a year since I looked at them.....and maybe a year before that. Meaningless, useless, and not worth the effort to try and put ice, or this or that in there. I use RidX for RV, and RVDigestIt, and some Calgon on occasion.



I doubt this tank is going to overflow on anyone before they notice it!!! Just dump it whenever you want.......then put some water back in it, don't leave it dry. You can dump it every day if you want IF YOU ADD A LOT OF WATER when done.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

If I ever think not using my RV toilet, or not flushing TP and storing the used paper, is the best option, I do believe my RV days would be over. But, to each his own.

Same here. I'd go back to the old "camp shovel" and use the woods way I did when tent camping before saving the used TP in ANY type of container even if it was sealed.

[PokieandBill]

Originally Posted by dbledan

Just because no one else has actually answered you and instead debated and lectured your post...sorry, we are usually more helpful than that.

I dont have a microlite and have not yet done the upgrade. I plan to do it eventually but have not found the time yet as it will be a significant task. When I do this is my plan.

1. Use an endoscope to look under chloroplast near tanks around the corners. This will take a few locations to find existing wires and a suitable location to install new sensor. You will need tank depth measurements to know what to order. You will need length/width to get the percentages correct possibly.
2. Pull back chloroplast with a flap from the back cut in U shape so it can be taped back up
3. Remove a tank sensor wire from current system board and tank. Connect the existing tank sensor to the new tank monitor
4. Add new panel near existing panel, this will be difficult due to location complexity for me. Extend the wire to the new panel.

You will have to do for each tank. Depending on if you plan to monitor battery you also need to modify these and if doing LP you will need a whole new wire for that (suggest the mopeka sensors instead).

I have removed part of the chloroplast previously and the screws I removed stripped out the holes so plan to have an alternate solution ready like a bigger screw or some u-bolts and washers if you can get around something or new holes and self tapping screws. Some screws would not come out and I had to cut them with my dremmel. The screws I used to reattach the chloroplast several snapped off when the pilot hole was not large enough halfway in.

Many tanks are wedged in between the beams and use the beams for additional support. This will pose a problem for the sensor placement so beware.

Hope that helps to get you started. I reviewed the install instructions but hopefully someone else that has completed the work can provide more information. If you donit before me post your results.

Thanks for the useful info, dbledan.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Same here. I'd go back to the old "camp shovel" and use the woods way I did when tent camping before saving the used TP in ANY type of container even if it was sealed.

x2![emoji32]

[dward51]

I also use the 10lbs of ice method with dish soap and calgon before driving. Works great on the black tank, but I've never found a way to get ice into the grey. I learned this with my first trailer back in 2001. I would dump/flush and then add about 3 to 5 gallons of water, ice and the soap and drive towards home. There was a truck stop near the house where I would dump and wash out one last time (99% of the time it was just soapy water by then, but that extra cleaning was good insurance).

Another thing is don't let the black tank dry out and do a good wash down inside (either via a tornado head sprayer or one of those wands you shove down the toilet valve opening). Another thing I would do in the old trailer (did not have tornado spray in black tank), was make sure to point the toilet valve wand directly at the area of the sensors on the black tank. Again, not sure how to do this with the grey.