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Old 11-19-2019, 06:38 PM   #21
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I nicked the rear corner of our TT last winter pulling out of a gas station. Tail swing for sure. Luckily it just got the lower trim so no big deal.
I always think twice then three times before calling my insurance guy about a possible claim.
Everyone should get aware of the C.L.U.E report that insurance companies use as a tool for calculating your insurance rates.
Even inquiring about a claim which suggests a loss can raise your rates for several years. Even if you do not file a claim.
I learned this the hard way.
I'm sure there are insurance guys on this message board who can give more info on this subject.
Want to know more?... Google is your friend. BTW you can get a free report just by asking. You may be shocked at what you see!


I just went online and requested my CLUE report. It will be sent to me by mail within two weeks. Do it. It's somewhat like a credit report.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:29 PM   #22
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You might want to look into that accident forgiveness. Look on your policy and review your discounts. What they will do is not raise your rates because of the "accident forgiveness", but at next renewal you'll lose your "accident free" and "safe driver" discounts. It's all a cleverly designed shell game. And if you have Progressive and some others, just one speeding ticket or other moving violation in the last 3 years will void "Accident forgiveness". Now you have a rate increase, and lose "discounts". It can get expensive quickly.


You're not going to file a claim when you're at fault that does not cost you money in the long run.
I'm guessing that ship has already sailed based on the fact that he has reported the accident, whether they pay anything on it or not.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:12 PM   #23
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14k was my concern.

I have no idea what the estimate would be. If 14k I'm certain they will total unit. Don't want that to happen. Took 5 yrs to get her the way I want. If totaled, do they give me chance to buy back? All new to me. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:40 PM   #24
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IF you do buy it back or if they don't total it and you pocket the money and fix it yourself, I would use 2 part marine epxoy to rebond that plywood. The hardest part will be figuring out how to keep pressure on it until the epoxy sets. It should be one solid sheet after that (also make sure to pay attention to the full cure time for the epoxy you decide to use - some take hours, others days to hit full cure - longer in the cold temps). Epoxy will be 100% waterproof bond also.
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:41 PM   #25
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I have no idea what the estimate would be. If 14k I'm certain they will total unit. Don't want that to happen. Took 5 yrs to get her the way I want. If totaled, do they give me chance to buy back? All new to me. Thanks guys.
As we found out the hard way, in Colorado there is no real option to buy back. If the vehicle is totaled - in Colorado the insurance can total it if the damage is 70% of the vehicle value, not the 100% everybody assumes - and the vehicle is given a new "salvage" title. Which means if you do buy it back, you can never resell it. The buyback price is the vehicle's value after the salvage value is subtracted out.

Colorado law also requires repairs be priced using OEM or manufacturer approved parts, driving the cost of repair to a "total" as quickly as possible.

Quite the scam by the insurance companies and the car dealers and manufacturers, with the state supporting it.

Example: my daughter was in a 3 car accident (not her fault) with her Toyota AWD RAV4. Car was drivable after the accident. She had purchased it (used) 4 months earlier for $21K (very good deal), with half being cash. Repairs were estimated at $14K. USAA (both daughter and driver at fault had USAA) said that was a total loss because there was likely more hidden damage than the original estimate. She was given $22K, which was $12K after paying off the loan. Or she could buy it back for $7600, and she would receive a salvage title, after paying the bank the $10K she owed.

Whenever a functional vehicle is totaled, the owner loses - big time.

Fred W
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:55 PM   #26
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in Colorado the insurance can total it if the damage is 70% of the vehicle value, not the 100% everybody assumes - and the vehicle is given a new "salvage" title. Which means if you do buy it back, you can never resell it.

That makes absolutely no sense, but I guess a lot of government BS doesn't make sense.


How many totaled cars would you like to buy with salvage titles? They're bought and sold here and in some neighboring states like no tomorrow. I know some folks that make a really decent living buying them, rebuilding them, and reselling them.



https://www.huffmansauto.com/invento.../#headeranchor
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Old 11-20-2019, 05:20 PM   #27
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I must be missing something

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Example: my daughter was in a 3 car accident (not her fault) with her Toyota AWD RAV4. Car was drivable after the accident. She had purchased it (used) 4 months earlier for $21K (very good deal), with half being cash. Repairs were estimated at $14K. USAA (both daughter and driver at fault had USAA) said that was a total loss because there was likely more hidden damage than the original estimate. She was given $22K, which was $12K after paying off the loan. Or she could buy it back for $7600, and she would receive a salvage title, after paying the bank the $10K she owed.

Whenever a functional vehicle is totaled, the owner loses - big time.

Fred W
Fred, that's a great report, but I'm missing something here.
  • Your daughter bought a car priced at $21K.
  • She drove it for four months.
  • Insurance paid her $22K.
That's more than she paid for it, after four months use. The loan payment is irrelevant. It's not different than if she paid cash.

So she pays off the current car loan, uses the remainder as the down payment on another RAV4, and gets another car loan. Where's the inequity?

Larry
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Old 11-20-2019, 05:24 PM   #28
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That makes absolutely no sense, but I guess a lot of government BS doesn't make sense.


How many totaled cars would you like to buy with salvage titles? They're bought and sold here and in some neighboring states like no tomorrow. I know some folks that make a really decent living buying them, rebuilding them, and reselling them.



https://www.huffmansauto.com/invento.../#headeranchor
x 2
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:47 PM   #29
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x3 - I was trying to figure out how she lost out, especially since she came out $1000 ahead
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:55 PM   #30
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Not the flood ones

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How many totaled cars would you like to buy with salvage titles? They're bought and sold here and in some neighboring states like no tomorrow. I know some folks that make a really decent living buying them, rebuilding them, and reselling them.

https://www.huffmansauto.com/invento.../#headeranchor
Maybe the minor crash ones, if I could be sure.

Drive the hail damaged ones as is? Sure!

The flood ones? Never.

I regularly drive down I-95 in NC. Just north of Fayetteville is an outfit called COPART. They buy and resell total loss cars. They are a chain as is LKQ, but unlike LKQ, they only sell complete cars, not U-pick-it parts. We've had a few floods here in NC, called Matthew (2016, 45 of 100 counties federally declared), Florence (2018, 34 declared counties), and Dorian (2019, no federal declaration but 100% of vehicles at Ocracoke were flooded). The COPART lot was more than full. They can't stack the cars vertically because the damage would affect value, but they sure were close together in the other two dimensions.

At 75 mph, I couldn't look closely, but I could recognize a few police cars from non-flooded areas. All the rest were flooded cars.
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Old 11-21-2019, 09:12 AM   #31
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As we found out the hard way, in Colorado there is no real option to buy back. If the vehicle is totaled - in Colorado the insurance can total it if the damage is 70% of the vehicle value, not the 100% everybody assumes - and the vehicle is given a new "salvage" title. Which means if you do buy it back, you can never resell it. The buyback price is the vehicle's value after the salvage value is subtracted out.

Colorado law also requires repairs be priced using OEM or manufacturer approved parts, driving the cost of repair to a "total" as quickly as possible.

Quite the scam by the insurance companies and the car dealers and manufacturers, with the state supporting it.

Example: my daughter was in a 3 car accident (not her fault) with her Toyota AWD RAV4. Car was drivable after the accident. She had purchased it (used) 4 months earlier for $21K (very good deal), with half being cash. Repairs were estimated at $14K. USAA (both daughter and driver at fault had USAA) said that was a total loss because there was likely more hidden damage than the original estimate. She was given $22K, which was $12K after paying off the loan. Or she could buy it back for $7600, and she would receive a salvage title, after paying the bank the $10K she owed.

Whenever a functional vehicle is totaled, the owner loses - big time.

Fred W
A couple of years ago we had a car that we had literally just paid off a month or 2 prior to a large hail storm. In Illinois we aren't allowed to buy back totaled cars but apparently it's different with hail damage.

I don't remember the exact numbers but we ended up ahead in the money they gave us for the car minus the cost of buying it back. Sold it to our oldest daughter who is still driving it to this day. It's got a couple of dents here and there but it gets her to and from work, which is all she really needs.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:42 AM   #32
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I like the old girl. Hope it works out. Thanks all for input.
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Old 11-22-2019, 10:41 AM   #33
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Update. Progressive sending me check for 3500. I asked if I could fix myself. He said if I took to lazy days or repair shop and not enough let him know. He said if it was him he would do repair himself . 50 dollars in parts and even showed me how. If new camper would look at it differently but 2012 model. That is what I will do. Asked if it would raise rates? He said if it does it would be insifigant . Check in two weeks. Good day got rid of gout and trailer ok. Feel like dancing. LOL.
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We are driving a Ford F250 Gasser and pulling a Evergreen G269FK. We also have a Cairn Terrier. 2 Champion Generators. This year, planning on 6 months in our Evergreen visiting, California, Michigan, and Ohio. We live in Florida. Grandkids, and dog are why we camp. Also have a Hensley Hitch which that eliminates all sway. Pricey, but worth it.
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:46 PM   #34
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Great day!!

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Update. Progressive sending me check for 3500. I asked if I could fix myself. He said if I took to lazy days or repair shop and not enough let him know. He said if it was him he would do repair himself . 50 dollars in parts and even showed me how. If new camper would look at it differently but 2012 model. That is what I will do. Asked if it would raise rates? He said if it does it would be insifigant . Check in two weeks. Good day got rid of gout and trailer ok. Feel like dancing. LOL.
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:00 AM   #35
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Get an estimate before the adjuster shows up (the adjuster looks out for the insurance company). Repair it yourself, put the rest in savings for the next purchase. You won't get a dime more if the whole rig has new skin when selling it. Amazing to me how many buy insurance and then worry about using it. If your rates go up you need a new insurance company.
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:28 AM   #36
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Thanks guys well done. Had difficult time find trim at reasonable price. Found at trailspals. 36.00. Everyone else wanted more than that for shipping alone. Camping world over 80.00. What a ripoff .
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We are driving a Ford F250 Gasser and pulling a Evergreen G269FK. We also have a Cairn Terrier. 2 Champion Generators. This year, planning on 6 months in our Evergreen visiting, California, Michigan, and Ohio. We live in Florida. Grandkids, and dog are why we camp. Also have a Hensley Hitch which that eliminates all sway. Pricey, but worth it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 11:10 AM   #37
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Not always

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Get an estimate before the adjuster shows up (the adjuster looks out for the insurance company). Repair it yourself, put the rest in savings for the next purchase. You won't get a dime more if the whole rig has new skin when selling it. Amazing to me how many buy insurance and then worry about using it. If your rates go up you need a new insurance company.
This is only true for certain companies that send in-house adjusters (Allstate, State Farm, can you hear me?) Other companies with in-house adjusters and companies with independent adjusters are more than fair.

I live at a location which is prone to accidents (Head of a T-intersection, stem of the T is steeply downhill towards the head, intersection is blind from all three approaches) and I've had my share of claims and they have all been overwhelmingly more than fair.

Lots of good stories...
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