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Old 09-09-2011, 11:53 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Labzy View Post
Thanks Scott

But I have yet another question now.......
How much do I lose from the load rating at 35psi?
Do you guys not add a few more pounds when you tow? (like up to 38psi?)
I have the same tires and I have been running 37 lbs in them all the time.It seems to take the sloshyness out of them.Any more and the bumps are very noticeable.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:48 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
Goodyear p275/60/R20
Max weight 2601 lbs
Max Weight of 2601 is a Load Range 114 tire.
In fact it is a 114S from the Goodyear web site.
Speed Range S equals 112 MPH.
With that basic information we are NOT done.

It must be inflated to its maximum inflation pressure cold of 44 PSI to carry that load. HOWEVER, when Passenger car tires are used on trucks and SUVs they REDUCE the maximum allowable load on the tire by a factor of 1.1; thus the maximum allowable inflation pressure is 35 PSI which equates to a maximum load of 2365 pounds not 2601. (see page L-10 of the Goodyear load and inflation pressure manual.)

The Door post is a manufacturers recommendation for inflation that takes into consideration several factors in addition to maximum load. While the door post PSI will NEVER be higher than the maximum load bearing pressure; is almost always less. Sometimes a LOT less. That pressure is based primarily on RIDE factors (braking, cornering, and vehicle roll) at the curb weight of the vehicle and the OEM tires.

http://hmcclub.homestead.com/Goodyea...oad_Charts.pdf

The single exception to the above has to do with P tires that are branded XL. In this case the following "note" applies (taken from the Tire Specification" document below).

The load-carrying capacity of P-Metric tires is rated either Standard Load or Extra Load. The load that can be carried with a maximum inflation pressure of 35psi limits standard Load tires. The load that can be carried with a maximum inflation pressure of 41 psi limits extra Load tires. An Extra Load tire (for example P235/75R15XL) will be branded with “Extra Load” as shown in the photo on this page. A Standard Load tire does not bear any special designations.

References:
http://www.cjtire.com/pdf/Tire%20Identification.pdf
Wrangler SR-A
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:20 PM   #43
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Lou, I am not asking Google anymore, you get to the point a lot quicker! Thanks for the info, it will come in handy.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:56 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post

It must be inflated to its maximum inflation pressure cold of 44 PSI to carry that load. HOWEVER, when Passenger car tires are used on trucks and SUVs they REDUCE the maximum allowable load on the tire by a factor of 1.1; thus the maximum allowable inflation pressure is 35 PSI which equates to a maximum load of 2365 pounds not 2601. (see page L-10 of the Goodyear load and inflation pressure manual.)

The Door post is a manufacturers recommendation for inflation that takes into consideration several factors in addition to maximum load. While the door post PSI will NEVER be higher than the maximum load bearing pressure; is almost always less. Sometimes a LOT less. That pressure is based primarily on RIDE factors (braking, cornering, and vehicle roll) at the curb weight of the vehicle and the OEM tires.

Now that's what I'm talking about!!!!

~Thanks Lou
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:44 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Max Weight of 2601 is a Load Range 114 tire.
In fact it is a 114S from the Goodyear web site.
Speed Range S equals 112 MPH.
With that basic information we are NOT done.

It must be inflated to its maximum inflation pressure cold of 44 PSI to carry that load. HOWEVER, when Passenger car tires are used on trucks and SUVs they REDUCE the maximum allowable load on the tire by a factor of 1.1; thus the maximum allowable inflation pressure is 35 PSI which equates to a maximum load of 2365 pounds not 2601. (see page L-10 of the Goodyear load and inflation pressure manual.)

The Door post is a manufacturers recommendation for inflation that takes into consideration several factors in addition to maximum load. While the door post PSI will NEVER be higher than the maximum load bearing pressure; is almost always less. Sometimes a LOT less. That pressure is based primarily on RIDE factors (braking, cornering, and vehicle roll) at the curb weight of the vehicle and the OEM tires.

http://hmcclub.homestead.com/Goodyea...oad_Charts.pdf

The single exception to the above has to do with P tires that are branded XL. In this case the following "note" applies (taken from the Tire Specification" document below).

The load-carrying capacity of P-Metric tires is rated either Standard Load or Extra Load. The load that can be carried with a maximum inflation pressure of 35psi limits standard Load tires. The load that can be carried with a maximum inflation pressure of 41 psi limits extra Load tires. An Extra Load tire (for example P235/75R15XL) will be branded with “Extra Load” as shown in the photo on this page. A Standard Load tire does not bear any special designations.

References:
http://www.cjtire.com/pdf/Tire%20Identification.pdf
Wrangler SR-A
Herk Why is the maximum load of a passenger tire reduced when used on a truck.If it is rated to carry a certain amount of weight,wouldn't it carry the same amount no matter what it was on?
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:52 PM   #46
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Lou, I am not asking Google anymore, you get to the point a lot quicker! Thanks for the info, it will come in handy.



I know what you're saying. If I need to find anything out I just "Lou it" now rather than Google it.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:29 PM   #47
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http://www.cjtire.com/pdf/Replacement%20Tires.pdf

I yield to the Goodyear engineers here.
This document seems to sum up the logic though.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:51 PM   #48
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Interesting,Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:42 PM   #49
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Interesting,Thanks for the info.
A trip to the tire store in your future?
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:15 AM   #50
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Tires have 47000 kms on them so they have to soon be replaced anyway,already had plans to get a Michelin LT tire to replace them.I had them on my other truck and got 90000 kms out of them.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:05 AM   #51
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Tires have 47000 kms on them so they have to soon be replaced anyway,already had plans to get a Michelin LT tire to replace them.I had them on my other truck and got 90000 kms out of them.
I have their LTX MX2 tires on my truck. I love them.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:45 PM   #52
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So I've decided to get 17" tires (and rims) next spring to replace my 20" wrangler hp. Which tires do you all recommend for towing a travel trailer?
I wish I had made the proper research before getting the Shasta ( which I am sure it will be a good TT, but giving me headaches as for it's tw)
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:52 PM   #53
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Brigitte

I believe you will be throwing good money after bad with a tire and wheel upgrade on your TV. If you feel you have made a mistake, you should just take that cash you would have thrown at your old truck and put it against a trade on a truck more suited to your mission.

Your GVWR will not increase enough with that mod to justify the cost IMHO.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:14 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
So I've decided to get 17" tires (and rims) next spring to replace my 20" wrangler hp. Which tires do you all recommend for towing a travel trailer?
I wish I had made the proper research before getting the Shasta ( which I am sure it will be a good TT, but giving me headaches as for it's tw)
since your truck is so new and probably are upside down in it where you cant trade for a few years - here is my suggestion - If you cant upgrade to a 2500 then here is my suggestion with tires -

watch what back space on the rim you get because the further you push the wheels out the reduction in turning radius becomes more noticable
(Meaning you will be making a wider turn when the wheels are pushed out)

Do 18" rims and tires

I am a fan of Michelin LTX MS - make sure they are Load Range E tire.

I had them in 16" and they were by far the best tire I had ever owned - a bit pricey but well worth it.

I was going to do the 18" equivalnt to the 275/60/20 but it seems the 18" was on National Backorder cause Ford bought them up for their 2500's so I never bought them and stuck with my 35's.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:24 PM   #55
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I need tires regardless, i'm driving on wrangler hp and not great for towing. I never liked these tires right from day one.
Also, If I were to trade truck, I woukd still get a 1500, just one with a bigger gvwr and payload. I showed up to the dodge dealership one and a half year ago with apecific request. I need a truck to tow a tt. I was sold this qc 1500 with hemi. What do i know?
I have learned a lot since then! I had money to purchase the required truck but apparently this guy thought this was gonna be enough truck for this woman.
Darn it.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:27 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by sherdep
since your truck is so new and probably are upside down in it where you cant trade for a few years - here is my suggestion - If you cant upgrade to a 2500 then here is my suggestion with tires -

watch what back space on the rim you get because the further you push the wheels out the reduction in turning radius becomes more noticable
(Meaning you will be making a wider turn when the wheels are pushed out)

Do 18" rims and tires

I am a fan of Michelin LTX MS - make sure they are Load Range E tire.

I had them in 16" and they were by far the best tire I had ever owned - a bit pricey but well worth it.

I was going to do the 18" equivalnt to the 275/60/20 but it seems the 18" was on National Backorder cause Ford bought them up for their 2500's so I never bought them and stuck with my 35's.
Can i put 18 on a dodge? I'll check them out
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:32 PM   #57
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I need tires regardless, i'm driving on wrangler hp and not great for towing. I never liked these tires right from day one.
Also, If I were to trade truck, I woukd still get a 1500, just one with a bigger gvwr and payload. I showed up to the dodge dealership one and a half year ago with apecific request. I need a truck to tow a tt. I was sold this qc 1500 with hemi. What do i know?
I have learned a lot since then! I had money to purchase the required truck but apparently this guy thought this was gonna be enough truck for this woman.
Darn it.
Dont beat yourself up over it - as they sh*t happens - now that you are a member here and have probably read alot of threads - you will be better educated on what you need now so the sales guy cant pull one over on ya.

even if you got a "bigger" 1500 - you would still be in the same boat you are now - your best option would be to step up into a 2500.

The wrangler's are not really bad tires - they are just P rated tires which isnt suited for towing heavy loads.
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:57 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
I need tires regardless, i'm driving on wrangler hp and not great for towing. I never liked these tires right from day one.
Also, If I were to trade truck, I woukd still get a 1500, just one with a bigger gvwr and payload. I showed up to the dodge dealership one and a half year ago with apecific request. I need a truck to tow a tt. I was sold this qc 1500 with hemi. What do i know?
I have learned a lot since then! I had money to purchase the required truck but apparently this guy thought this was gonna be enough truck for this woman.
Darn it.
What is the problem with your Dodge.Mine seems to tow our trailer just fine,maybe you need to adjust your hitch a little.
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:53 PM   #59
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What is the problem with your Dodge.Mine seems to tow our trailer just fine,maybe you need to adjust your hitch a little.
Nothing wrong with the truck or trailer. Trailer follows the truck really well, once up to speed, we don't even feel it's back there. I was concerned with the payload and GVWR of the truck. Seems like I have no room to store anything in the back of the truck cuz I 'm 80 lbs over my truck's GWVR.
If I never looked at the numbers, I wouldn't have known.
Looks like the truck's towing capacity numbers quoted by dodge are nothing but fluff when their GVWR are only 6700
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:35 PM   #60
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I was concerned with the payload and GVWR of the truck. Seems like I have no room to store anything in the back of the truck cuz I 'm 80 lbs over my truck's GWVR.
If I never looked at the numbers, I wouldn't have known.
Looks like the truck's towing capacity numbers quoted by dodge are nothing but fluff when their GVWR are only 6700
The problem of GVWR and payload is pretty much the same for all manufacturers of 1/2 T pick-ups. Some seem that they have higher payload capacity because of a higher GVWR # until you weigh them and find out what the truck itself weighs. I believe that most 1/2 T's have a true payload capacity of about 1000# or less (GVWR minus loaded truck weight). The only one that I know is different is the F150 with the heavy payload package at a GVWR of 8500# would give you a true payload capacity similiar to or even greater than an F250 diesel.

The other way to look at payload capacity is by the truck's rear axle weight rating which on the Ram 1500 is 3900 lbs. Running the numbers for my 2005 Ram 1500 I had about 950# payload capacity by GVWR or 1300# payload capacity by RAWR. Your situation of exceeding the truck's GVWR is not unusual at not. If the GVWR was the law, there'd be lots of 5th wheel owners with 3/4T tow vehicles parked as a great many exceed the GVWR of their truck, but are less the the RAWR.

Just my humble opinion...

Dave

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