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Old 03-24-2012, 09:54 PM   #1
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Water filter...flooded again.....

for the love of all that is good!!!!!

EVERY time I change the water filer I flood the camper.......it take about 3 times taking it off and back on....before I get it to not flood.......ERRRRRRRRRR

soooooo frustrating!

any tips?
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athens-M50 View Post
for the love of all that is good!!!!!

EVERY time I change the water filer I flood the camper.......it take about 3 times taking it off and back on....before I get it to not flood.......ERRRRRRRRRR

soooooo frustrating!

any tips?
Take the whole filter system out of the camper. Hook it up outside in line with the water source and the camper water inlet.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #3
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The clear canister should screw pretty easy until it hits the top - is yours hard to turn?

check the seal or put a small amount of vasaline on the rubber O ring

Does your filter have a top and bottom seal as well as a O Ring seal for the canister?

If not I know WalMart sells a whole house filter canister (same as in my trailer) maybe replace the filter housing and canister with a new style
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:31 PM   #4
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it is....it's the small filter about 5".....rubber washer on top and bottom......clear canister......

I think it's when I am screwing it on....it is not getting square on the top side......and not letting it seat when screwing it on.

pisses me off when I got water running everywhere!
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #5
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leaving in the morning going to Fall Creek Falls in TN.

that makes it better!!!
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:39 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Athens-M50 View Post
it is....it's the small filter about 5".....rubber washer on top and bottom......clear canister......

I think it's when I am screwing it on....it is not getting square on the top side......and not letting it seat when screwing it on.

pisses me off when I got water running everywhere!
I have the filter housing inside the camper and I also camp with one on the outside so I have a dual filter system going on.

I usually give it a slight shake on the canister to see if the filter moves and helps seat the filter. filter and seal are seated in the clear canister and then screw it up to the housing.

Have a safe trip
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:21 AM   #7
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plumbers valve grease

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Originally Posted by Athens-M50 View Post
I got water running everywhere!

you should not have to mess with it too often
but
when you do
put a pan under filter
turn water on low
if it starts dripping
run and turn water off

or
have somebody at the hose bib

I put plumbers valve grease on mine
makes all moving water parts
go together so much better

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Old 03-25-2012, 06:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athens-M50 View Post
it is....it's the small filter about 5".....rubber washer on top and bottom......clear canister......

I think it's when I am screwing it on....it is not getting square on the top side......and not letting it seat when screwing it on.

pisses me off when I got water running everywhere!
You mentioned the rubber washer top and bottom on the filter, but as sherdep mentioned, does the clear canister still have the rubber O ring in the top of the canister. The loss of that O ring is usually the cause of leaks at the filter.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:16 AM   #9
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yes...it does have the O ring......
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:53 AM   #10
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valve grease -- put on O-ring and threads

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Originally Posted by Athens-M50 View Post
yes...it does have the O ring......

buy some valve grease (local hardware store)
put on O-ring and threads
screw that THING in and out at least a few times
you will get the feel of it (when it is tight)

the filter in our home under the sink
gave me a leaking problem
until I greased it up good
and screwed it in and out four or five times

from many years of doing water repairs for the City
can't live without valve grease
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:58 PM   #11
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I'm replacing mine for the first time & the instructions say use a food grade silicone wiped on the rubber o ring.

Where would one find such a thing?

I fear because of vaseline's petroleum base, it would eat the rubber o ring.

-Glenn
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:12 PM   #12
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One place I have found food grade silicone is at homebrewer supply stores. We use it on the seals of our kegs of beer. Great stuff.
Another place I get a steady supply is when I replace the water filter in my home fridge. Each filter comes with a little tube of the stuff. I only use about 1/2 of what is supplied and I wind up with lots of unused tubes.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:52 PM   #13
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small tube of valve grease

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Originally Posted by Saratoga Camper View Post
I'm replacing mine for the first time & the instructions say use a food grade silicone wiped on the rubber o ring.

if we go to our local hardware store
and buy a small tube of valve grease
this stuff works excellent
I also have found that many of the faucets on RV's
can use a little valve grease to get them back to
smooth operating condition
they seem to dry out fast

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Old 05-08-2012, 06:49 AM   #14
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Food-grade silicone lube should be available at any food service supply distrubuter. Plumber's valve grease, available at any good hardware store, is also "safe" for potable water systemsand should likely work as well. If the o-ring has been pinched and leaked as many times as you describe, it may need replacement.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:58 AM   #15
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Over time I've seen this oring swell slightly . And if installed dry it might squeeze out slightly causing a leak.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:53 PM   #16
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Went to my local Ace store & bought a replacement O ring for the filter - didn't like the looks of the one in it, it seemed a tad too big.

Found valve grease next to a small tub of silicone. Valve grease had warnings on it not to be taken internally, or ingested.
Silicone said non-toxic.

So silicone it is!

Glenn
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:39 PM   #17
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Iím using Vaseline on the o-ring and made a catch basin with a hose in the bottom to pour the water out in. My 8280WS has the filter over the 12v water pump and I just didnít think it was good to pour the filter canister on it. Itís kind or a poor place to have put it, the hoses and heat ducts block easy removal.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:39 PM   #18
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I'd avise against Vaseline fro reason sated above.
Someone suggested vegetable or olive oil...


Quote:
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Iím using Vaseline on the o-ring and made a catch basin with a hose in the bottom to pour the water out in. My 8280WS has the filter over the 12v water pump and I just didnít think it was good to pour the filter canister on it. Itís kind or a poor place to have put it, the hoses and heat ducts block easy removal.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:53 PM   #19
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Anyone else notice a decrease in water flow when using any filter other than the specific one for that model filter? I tried one from Home Depot, then one from Menards. water flow was very low with city water hooked up and almost non-existent when running the pump. I bought an RV specific canister filter and it flows great, but they are $$$$$

BTW, I have never had the issue with flooding. I can see though how the o-ring could not seat properly!
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:42 PM   #20
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All these posts are why I ripped mine out.

OK, the micron range of the cheaper Home Store filters are "tighter" than the RV part shop filters. The tighter filter sounds great because it removes all kinds of bad stuff (like Chlorine, calcium, lead, yada yada).

However, it clogs up almost immediately and water pressure drops like a rock. The ones you buy at the RV store is a sediment only filter and removes nothing but mud.

Do yourself a big favor and replace the filter housing with a pressure bottle to provide expansion and pressurized water for a flush or two without running the pump at night.

Use a walmart throw away filter that goes on the hose.
Walmart.com: Camco Water Filter with Hose: Automotive
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