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Old 08-12-2022, 10:08 AM   #1
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Water heater Q Solaire 205ss

Beginnerís question re Solaire 205ss model
If I have city water connected can I assume that the water heater tank is filled and that, therefore, it is safe to turn on the water heater?

Thank you.
Craig
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:18 AM   #2
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Beginner’s question re Solaire 205ss model
If I have city water connected can I assume that the water heater tank is filled and that, therefore, it is safe to turn on the water heater?

Thank you.
Craig
No sir you cannot. If the tank has been bypassed for winterization, then it will not fill with water. Please read this thread.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...st-103381.html

Even turning on the hot water taps is not a solid indicator if the tank is bypassed, and dry of water. In the bypass position, the cold water is tied into the hot water line so if you turn on the hot water taps inside the RV, you are going to get water from the taps, but it's coming from the cold water lines and not the water heater...which will be dry.

Briefly flipping up the lever on the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve on the water heater tank itself, is the true way of knowing if the tank has water inside it.

Post #1 of this thread link below will explain that process with the T&P valve.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ore-36197.html
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Old 08-12-2022, 11:58 AM   #3
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Just to clarify. You need to open a hot water faucet in the rig to fill the hot water tank. You should get a noticeably higher flow once the heater has been filled. As suggested, flipping the pressure relief valve will make certain its filled.
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Old 08-12-2022, 12:33 PM   #4
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Just to clarify. You need to open a hot water faucet in the rig to fill the hot water tank. You should get a noticeably higher flow once the heater has been filled. As suggested, flipping the pressure relief valve will make certain its filled.
Popping open the pressure relief valve to make certain the water heater is filled is not recommended by Suburban because it removes the air bubble in the top that acts as a pressure regulator to minimize pressure increases due to water expansion when it heats. This can lead to weeping from the relief valve when the water heats up.

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Old 08-12-2022, 12:36 PM   #5
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Follow up

Thanks to everyone for the helpful replies. Caused me to look behind water heater tank and find a few valves. (needed to use mirrors). Is it possible to post a picture direct from my iPad on this forum? I can’t seem to find an icon that gets it done and copy/paste doesn’t work either.

There are two valves that have to turned for normal usage or winterizing. But there is a third valve farther back I am not sure of. Pipes are blue. I believe it’s a Shurflo pump. Valve seems to be open.(valve handle in line with pipe.)

So, if the two valves are set to normal usage and I open a hot water faucet in the unit the tank should fill, correct?

Thanks again.
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Old 08-12-2022, 12:41 PM   #6
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The two valves that are on the back of the water heater should have their handles pointing towards the water heater. The third valve is likely a suction to draw antifreeze into the system for winterization. That valve should be shut, if indeed that is what it is for. However, either that third valve is a three-way (just like the water heater bypass valves) and there is another "pipe" connected to it - or there should be a fourth valve that is also on the suction side of the water pump.

In order to draw antifreeze in, there must also be a method to shut off the suction of the pump from the freshwater tank. This is accomplished by either a fourth valve, or by using a three-way valve. So that third valve you are describing may be in the correct position.
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Old 08-12-2022, 01:29 PM   #7
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Popping open the pressure relief valve to make certain the water heater is filled is not recommended by Suburban because it removes the air bubble in the top that acts as a pressure regulator to minimize pressure increases due to water expansion when it heats. This can lead to weeping from the relief valve when the water heats up.

I think we have discussed this before in other threads. The T&P is below the top of the tank. Opening it up does NOT remove the expansion air bubble that is above the level of the T&P valve. See screenshot below

As Mark explains in the video, if the pressure or temp (which temp increases pressure so they are synonymous) gets above a certain level, the T&P opens up to relieve this. It would be counterproductive for it to open, if doing such takes away the air pocket and thus increases the pressure in the tank. So opening the relief valve manually instead of automatically accomplishes nearly the same event. It does not hurt.
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Old 08-12-2022, 03:31 PM   #8
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The two valves that are on the back of the water heater should have their handles pointing towards the water heater. The third valve is likely a suction to draw antifreeze into the system for winterization. That valve should be shut, if indeed that is what it is for. However, either that third valve is a three-way (just like the water heater bypass valves) and there is another "pipe" connected to it - or there should be a fourth valve that is also on the suction side of the water pump.

In order to draw antifreeze in, there must also be a method to shut off the suction of the pump from the freshwater tank. This is accomplished by either a fourth valve, or by using a three-way valve. So that third valve you are describing may be in the correct position.
Thanks,
Turns out There is a fourth valve ( sounds like a Graham Greene movie.) it was covered with that spray insulating foam which I had to break away to find it. It leads to the antifreeze draw. Iíve closed it. This means, if I read you correctly, The fourth valve leads to the fresh water tank which should be open in all circumstances ( using city water or tank water) except when Iím adding antifreeze to winterize?

Wish I could post a picture.

Thanks.
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:12 PM   #9
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Thanks,
Turns out There is a fourth valve ( sounds like a Graham Greene movie.) it was covered with that spray insulating foam which I had to break away to find it. It leads to the antifreeze draw. Iíve closed it. This means, if I read you correctly, The fourth valve leads to the fresh water tank which should be open in all circumstances ( using city water or tank water) except when Iím adding antifreeze to winterize?

Wish I could post a picture.

Thanks.
Correct!
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:15 PM   #10
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I think we have discussed this before in other threads. The T&P is below the top of the tank. Opening it up does NOT remove the expansion air bubble that is above the level of the T&P valve. See screenshot below

As Mark explains in the video, if the pressure or temp (which temp increases pressure so they are synonymous) gets above a certain level, the T&P opens up to relieve this. It would be counterproductive for it to open, if doing such takes away the air pocket and thus increases the pressure in the tank. So opening the relief valve manually instead of automatically accomplishes nearly the same event. It does not hurt.
Nowhere in any suburban documentation is there any procedure to open the T&P relief valve while the water supply is open in order to check if the tank is filled. Both the written documentation and the video say to turn off the water supply, open the T&P valve and open a faucet. When water stops draining, let the T&P valve snap shut and then open the water supply again. Therefore, I will continue to NOT recommend that people simply open the T&P valve until pressurized water flows out. I will continue to recommend that users only do what Suburban recommends doing.
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:16 PM   #11
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Thanks,
....
Wish I could post a picture.

Thanks.
Open your recently received Welcome PM. Click on the link to Forums 101 and follow the instructions in post 7 of that thread. The Forums 101 link is provided to all new registrants to answer most forum operation questions.
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:42 PM   #12
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Nowhere in any suburban documentation is there any procedure to open the T&P relief valve while the water supply is open in order to check if the tank is filled. Both the written documentation and the video say to turn off the water supply, open the T&P valve and open a faucet. When water stops draining, let the T&P valve snap shut and then open the water supply again. Therefore, I will continue to NOT recommend that people simply open the T&P valve until pressurized water flows out. I will continue to recommend that users only do what Suburban recommends doing.

That's not accurate. In Suburbans video series, which Suburban provided our forums and are on youtube, Mark (Suburbans spokesperson) says to do just that, and open up the T&P valve to confirm there is water in it.


You can view this here at the 3:12 mark.



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Old 08-12-2022, 09:54 PM   #13
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That's not accurate. In Suburbans video series, which Suburban provided our forums and are on youtube, Mark (Suburbans spokesperson) says to do just that, and open up the T&P valve to confirm there is water in it.


You can view this here at the 3:12 mark.



I stand corrected, sir. Thank you for the information!
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:03 AM   #14
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Thanks all, mission accomplished. Videos were helpful too. Is there a thread or source for useful maintenance vids for dummies?

Craig
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:10 AM   #15
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Thanks all, mission accomplished. Videos were helpful too. Is there a thread or source for useful maintenance vids for dummies?

Craig
We kind of put together a thread of links for new RV owners at this link that may help"

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html
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Old 08-14-2022, 07:41 PM   #16
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I ran across this youtube video, while explaining something to another member. It is a factory video from Forest River explaining the operation of a Suburban dual propane/electric water heater. Saw a little mistake though on it.


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