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Old 01-07-2013, 04:51 PM   #61
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Michigan
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We use a Vornado portable electric heater. It has a variable thermostat and fan. Turn it on when we get to our property in northern lower Michigan and the furnace might go on a couple times at night when the temperature gets in the 20s. We haven't refilled the propane in about a year and have had the heater for about 10 years. I would recommend the Vornado with the experience I've had with mine
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:20 AM   #62
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Location: Columbia, MO
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Originally Posted by LaydBack View Post
If yours does that would be exactly what my mod does. I think I've seen/heard about the Vornado. I just figured since the furnace blower serves the basement/underbelly, it'd be a good idea to use it to recirculate the air, and have some of that warm air flow through those areas. I also like multiple sources for electric heat, wifey seems to always have a need for more heat than the rest of us. Glad you found a solution that works for you.
I checked last night. Mine does have a fan on/auto switch and when I turned the fan to 'on', it immediately came on and circulated air.
--2009 Sunseeker 2860DS (Class C)
- one Hotwife, and two boys under 2(with one on the way!)
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:39 AM   #63
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Location: Southern Alberta
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We just got back from yet another winter camping adventur in our Georgetown.

Remember that when you use a space heater, if it keeps the furnace from turning on, the air is not ciruculating in the underbelly - and that circulating air is what keeps your water pump and water filter (if they are in the same compartment) from freezing.

On another post I reported our discovery that removing the plastic baffle in the water pump/filter cabinet made a huge difference in keeping the pump from freezing. We will be adding some insulation to that compartment as well.

I would suggest limiting the intrusion of cold air and leaking of heat. If you don't have double pane windows that would be my first effort - insulated coverings. I am going to make some insulated coverings for the drivers/passenger window and windshield. We do have the double pane windows, but the windshield isn't and it feels like a blast of cold air just from that area of the MH.

We also notice that with the slides deployed the MH is colder - the front slide seems to be more "leaky" than the rear so we leave it in during the night.

I found a 200 watt ceramic heater (cute as a button) at a Walmart - it was either Billings, Montana or Northern Colorado. It won't heat the coach but would be good if you were say sitting at the dinette to keep the chill off your feet for example.

Other than that we have two electric heaters. Both have a fan only setting which makes them useful year round. I'm not sure though why you want to limit the amperage of the heaters you are using - if you are plugged in at a site or if you are using your generator you should have more than enough juice to power a 1800 watt heater.

One tip is to remove the load before turning on your generator - meaning unplug the various heaters. When it's cold (0 F ) our generator is sluggish about turning over. Unplugging the heaters seems to make a difference.
***** ***** *****
2011 Georgetown 320DS new June 2010
days camped in 2010: 61
days camped in 2011: 37 (up to Aug 1st)
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by RoadTrip View Post
I checked last night. Mine does have a fan on/auto switch and when I turned the fan to 'on', it immediately came on and circulated air.
I'd say you're in business then. Should help even things out throughout your unit, and get the bathroom(s) covered as well. Atleast you can try it to see if you like it.

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Old 01-17-2013, 07:37 PM   #65
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Our problem is kind of similar with our Crusader 270RET. When the coach was built, I'm pretty sure the engineers that designed this puppy, really wanted some floor outlets in our coach. In the largest living area of the 5th wheel camper, where we have two slideouts and only two heater outlets under, both are under the kitchen counter on one side. There are no floor outlets anywhere in the main living area of the Crusader. The head has an outlet and there is one in the bedroom, at night the heat in those area's is almost unbearable. The main living space downstairs always has a chill. We have a small catalitic heater we run under the dinnett table, this seems to help, but a floor outlet in this area would really solve the problem....Not an answer to your problem, other than the catalitic heater does a wonderful job...we leave it running almost all the time when parked at home during the winter.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:56 PM   #66
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We have a brand new Crusader 270RET coach, it has no less than ten electrical outlets, all are household rated receptacles, I have installed two myself and matched what is already in problems..

Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
Okay, but..... RV's don't use receptacles that are used in building construction, and therein lies a problem. I know this thread is going a little sideways, but I thought I would add/clarify something.

Also, I sure hope the OP gets a good answer in this thread somewhere!

RVs use a receptacle (and switch) designated "self contained device" that are specifically for RVs and manufactured homes. See this Pass & Seymour manufacturer info.: Residential, commercial, hospital, or any other grade of receptacle used in building construction cannot be used in the exterior wall of an RV because the walls are not thick enough to install an outlet box these receptacles. To install a non-SCD type of recept. in an RV exterior wall is inviting disaster. "Ordinary" receptacles must be installed in an outlet box so that there are no exposed terminals. SCD receptacles have a cover on the rear that covers the connections/terminals. You *could* install a non-SCD receptacle on an interior wall or mounted on a cabinet as long as you install an outlet box.

Secondly, a significant problem is that too often, wiring on an SCD receptacle has not been done properly. I have found this on our own TT on the first recept. I pulled out (to relocate up a bit). Rather scary IMO. SCD receptacles have two prongs (or stabs) for each wire to be pushed on to. The wire MUST be pushed onto both prongs or the termination can overheat. There is a proper tool for terminating the wire on SCD receptacles, but if one is very careful, you can push the wire in with a screwdriver.

SCD designated receptacles are not "crap" as I have often read. They are designed to meet Code and safety standards and there is no problem as long as they are installed properly. Too many times I have read that someone is gonna take the POS receptacle out and install a "proper" one.

I know from reading RV forums here and elsewhere that overheating and failed receptacles happen. If you have a 1500W heater running continuously or nearly continuously, there is a risk of fire if the recept. is not properly installed or the wrong one is in there. I wonder how many fires have been caused by improperly terminated wires at a recept.?

I think it would be smart to at least spot check some recepts. in your camper. And/or maybe it would be good to check all terminations on the circuit that is supplying a heater. And if you bought a used RV, I would also suggest checking to see if non-SCD receptacles have been installed. In view of the numerous manufacturing issues that we constantly hear about, I have to wonder how many RVs leave plants with improperly wired receptacles.

Please excuse the verbosity herein, but as an elec. eng. I couldn't resist....
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