Wintering in a trailer...what needs done?

[prof_fate]

I've run into a few folks htat have stayed in a camper over the winter. I may have a need to do this in Pennsylvania this winter.

So...it's just your average grey wolf..it's on private property so can do anything within reason. There is a barn that it might fit inside if that would do much good. Where it's at now there's power, sewage and water..in the barn the water is far away and there is no sewer hookup.

So..how bad is it to winter in a camper and what needs done?

[ependydad]

I've never done it (and wouldn't if I had a choice). But, I'm on enough fulltimer groups that here's what I've picked up on:

You'll need to skirt the under side to keep cold air out from underneath.

You'll need a heated water hose.

You'll want to insulate the windows. Reflectix works.

You'll want to bring in a larger propane tank.

And something with the dump hose and sewer to keep it from freezing....

[Bama Rambler]

Since you're on private property, if you have access to square bales of hay, you could lay those around the underside of the RV. They make excellent insulation. If you have enough of them, you could also insulate your sewer hose with them. Get some heat tape to run along the sewer hose, and around the fresh water hose to keep them warm.

[5picker]

Depending on where in PA you might be fighting a losing battle.
Here in the mountains of Western PA we have months of sub zero temperatures and staying in a camper would be risky at best.

With that said... hay bales will help insulate but also attract a place for mice and critters to live.

You'll need a large external propane tank to hold LOTS of propane cause it will take the furnace and several electric heaters to stay comfortable.

Water... that's a guess. What is the source and is that plumbing freeze proof? It won't do you much good to have a heated water hose if the supply plumbing freezes.

Best of luck.

[TitanMike]

I wintered in an 1995 Terry 27' TT during a cold Colorado winter while having a house built. From Sept to Feb on the SW corner of Denver.

First thing I did was protect my water supply. I built a small "dog house" of plywood to cover the hydrant and ran a piece of abs water pipe from hydrant to city water connection on the outside of the trailer. Taped some heat strip to the pipe and wrapped more around the hydrant inside the "dog house". Covered the ABS pipe with pre-formed foam insulation, the stuff used to insulate pipes in house crawl spaces, taping the seams and joints. At the city water connection I used a "foam dome" to cover the connection and taped it securely to the side of the TT.

I added tank heaters to the Black Water tank and heat tape to the discharge pipe, out to the hose. I merely left the Gray discharge valve open. Made sure the sewer hose had no dips that would collect water and have an ice plug form.

I called the local Propane Service and they dropped a 250-300 gallon horizontal tank in front of my TT and connected it to the TT's regulator. They use Horizontal tanks because , in their words, "When it's cold the horizontal tanks have a larger evaporation surface so you get plenty of gas even though it's COLD and your demand is high.

They put me on an Auto Fill schedule and just serviced the tank for the next 6 months, leaving a bill on the door when I was at work. No hassles filling tanks and the TT was constantly warm.

I didn't skirt the trailer but if I did it again I'd just use builder's foam insulating panels and some Gorilla Tape. I was located in an area where there was little wind so it didn't prove to be a problem.

If using straw or hay bales it's a good idea to cover them with black plastic sheeting. Keeps them from getting wet and turning into solid blocks of reinforced ice that's impossible to move should you have to get under the trailer.

Get a couple of Vent Pillows to insulate roof vents as they loose heat like mad. Cover unused windows with just regular insulated sun shield material but make sure you can have a window of two you can still open for some ventilation.

Keep cupboard doors under sinks open, at least at night. That "3-hinge" door (if you have one) that covers the water pump and water filter should be opened too.

Last note. Your furnace will run for seemingly forever. It would be a good idea to keep a spare furnace motor on hand. Having one is pretty much good insurance the old one won't fail and not having the spare is pretty much (at least for some) a guarantee that the old one will fail and a new part is a week away. Also keep a couple of small heaters on hand to supplement the furnace if necessary and keep from freezing solid if the furnace does quite.

I kept the water tank filled too. Good thing as one morning, when the temp hit -15 degrees, my water supply froze (the "Foam Dome" came loose and the city water connection froze in spite of the heat tape) between drawing water for coffee and stripping down for a shower. Just flipped the pump switch on and finished the shower. Stopped before going to work and re-secured the "Foam Dome".


All and all it was not an unpleasant experience. Thought it interesting how the ice would form on the side of the trailer like a frozen waterfall. Sometimes it got as thick as 3" but that disappeared when we had typical Colorado sunny winter days.

[Scheinin]

I have wintered the last 2 years in Maryland. Last year not bad. First year 30" of snow and night time temperatures 4 degrees above 0. I live full time in my Cedar Creek 5th wheel, which has the arctic package. I only hooked up water to fill my tank when the tank needed filling. Conserved water usage so I would not have to dump my tanks for 2 weeks, when I would be moving. Fortunately my son is an electrician who installed a 50 amp. line. Propane tank #30 would last about 3 days running heat 24/7. Was able to refill in town, using my tow vehicle for transportation. I actually enjoyed the experience.

[Carpercb]

Personally I would just go South . Nice and comfortable during the Winter here in Southern Arizona .

[TonyShope]

I stay in the north until Late Jan or so where wind chills frequently drop to -50 or above and a warm day is -10 F.

Fresh water line needs heat tape and exterior pipe insulation. The hydrant also needs heat tape and insulation along with your sewer line.

I took the further step of heat tape around the water heater and inboard line. Heat tape only s on (most brands) below 38 degrees and uses ver little electricity. I have the inside units hooked through batter bank in case of a power outage.

My unit is designed for winter and sets on the trailer frame wheels off the ground. I make sure I leave one end slightly off the ground to ensure mice do not wish to move under. I also sprinkle mice/rat bait under the trailer along with month balls lots of them.

I caution you as I have been living in North Dakota since the oil boom. Many folks died because they brought a TT that was not designed for extreme cold and or had heater malfunctions.

If using onboard furnace solely to heat (I do not recommend this) leave a window near the bed cracked open in the event of a monoxide problem. Install multiple trailer monoxide/gas/ smoke detectors. Never place your life in the hand of one item that can fail. My unit which is 22 ft has 4 of such. I also use an electric radiator designed for 700 sq ft that I purchased at LOWES for $200. It will cook me out. I only trun the onboard heater one time a day for 30 minutes to ensure it functions.

Hope this helps

[Wilco]

In addition to the previous suggestions, you may want to build a little roof that would extend from the roof out over the bump out. This will prevent snow from laying on the bump out roof. It does not need to be permanently attach but it does need to be tied down so wind does not blow it off.
In anticipation of freezing temperature for a trip out west this winter, I added 1/2" foam board to the underside of my trailer to insulate the tanks and to seal that area. I also installed heat tape to the exposed plumbing to insure it does not freeze.
One or two portable electric heaters would provide all the heat you should need. I suggest the oil filled heaters or baseboard heaters because they are the quietest. (Only a click when they turn on/off. No fan running all night.)
Use double faced tape and heat shrink film to insulate the windows and still have the ability to see out of them. Add storm window panels to your screen door. On nice days you can open the outer door for the additional light without allowing cold air in.

[actadh]

I am in my travel trailer a lot in winter in western West Virginia, although I am not a full timer. It is not unusual to spend all day in it as it is my home office. I overnight in it as a treat for visiting grandkids, and sometimes when DH is not at home as a mini camping experience.

I have 30 amp electric to it in my side yard. This allows me to run a space heater on low wattage through the day and higher wattage at night.

I do winterize it. I have gallon jugs of water. I keep a hassock portapotty in the bathroom (trashbag of kitty litter in it). A dishpan in the kitchen sink catches water from handwashing, dishwashing etc. and I toss the water in the garden. I microwave a mixing bowl of water to wash dishes in hot water, btw, and fix meals & make tea in the trailer all through the winter.

If I was truly living it in, I would shower at my gym in town, which is Planet Fitness and open 24 hours a day.

I would recommend putting it in that outbuilding you mentioned to keep the wind off of it. I park mine in the lee of the house so it blocks a lot of the wind.

Insulated vehicle windshield covers go over the windows on the inside - the kind with foil on one side and the foil faces in. Makes a really big difference. Mine are from Family Dollar.

When I sleep in the trailer, I pile up body pillows on the side of the bed that is against the outer wall. I can even make the bed into a canopy bed by attaching a blanket from the overbed cabinets to hang down the inner side of the bed, which makes it even cozier - the advantage of not having a walkaround bed.

[johnruff]

I did it in Bloomington. IL for 3 winters while working there. You can buy a heated hose now at Camping world but you also need to insulate it with pipi foam insulation and tape it with duct tape completely. If you use heat tape. Tape the heat tape to the hose then insulate it and tape that with duct tape completely - no exposure of the insulation. I put insulation board and plywood around the base of the RV and all slides to keep wind out - any wind will freeze water lines. I also dropped the base s little and put pipe insulation on the pipes there that i vould reach. Get a tank from the gad company and have them keep it filled so you can run the heat. Keep some water in the fresh eater tank for emergency. You prob wany to have a gen for emergency? Caulk the skirt around the rv- critter may like your warm area. I would not use hay- bugs love it. Good luck and just use it as a challenge and adventure.

[Cypressloser]

I also have experience living in cold weather, down to neg. 40 deg. My advise would be to put heat pads under the tanks, insulate the belly as good as possible without blocking airflow from the furnace, skirt the trailer using rigid foam panels, insulate and heat tape the waste water drain pipes and the dump valves!!!
If you get water from a hydrant please fill your tank and then disconnect your hose and store it, do not rely on heat tape to protect a hydrant from freezing it will turn into a real disaster if that tape ever fails. Do not leave the waste water drain hose connected.
Place thermometers under the trailer and in critical areas inside the trailer, you will need the propane furnace to keep the underbelly warm. Small 60 Watt light bulbs in the wet bay and a 300 Watt ceramic space heater under the trailer also help a lot. Space heaters in the living quarters are good for comfort but make sure the furnace runs at least occasionally.
Straw or hay bales sound like a good idea but they attract critters looking for shelter.

[prof_fate]

Unfortunately the job is here, there are 6 horses on the farm as well - just no house. Had the farm 20 years, got it cheap as the house had burned down (as did the indoor arena). Hence there is a well and septic (and large concrete pad that was the home's foundation).

Originally Posted by Carpercb

Personally I would just go South . Nice and comfortable during the Winter here in Southern Arizona .

[poofam]

Not in a Gray Wolf. Poor insulation drafty windows. Get a dehumidifier because the windows will sweat and will be damp feeling inside. I full time in NC but my camper is built for it. Good luck

[TonyShope]

Originally Posted by poofam

Not in a Gray Wolf. Poor insulation drafty windows. Get a dehumidifier because the windows will sweat and will be damp feeling inside. I full time in NC but my camper is built for it. Good luck

I live in a Grey Wolf 17KL Ice house, dual thermal pane windows and 2 1/2 inches of wall and 3 inches of floor insulation. Please as I have asked others do not assume because you own a Grey Wolf or no some person who does that all are made equal. Smart purchasing and understanding your unit is important. I have 6 windows and a garage fold down and a simple 12oV heater can cook you out of this unit with no window sweat etc. That includes my 8 fishing holes inside.

[poofam]

Originally Posted by TonyShope

I live in a Grey Wolf 17KL Ice house, dual thermal pane windows and 2 1/2 inches of wall and 3 inches of floor insulation. Please as I have asked others do not assume because you own a Grey Wolf or no some person who does that all are made equal. Smart purchasing and understanding your unit is important. I have 6 windows and a garage fold down and a simple 12oV heater can cook you out of this unit with no window sweat etc. That includes my 8 fishing holes inside.

Yours is made for cold weather all the ones (at least 10) around here aren't. And I do know a few people who own them and all want to upgrade. But as you know you get what you can afford at the time and worry about upgrading when you can. I TRULY am glad you are a happy camper like me.

[Bluepill]

Average Winter in PA is coldest from mid Dec. to early March. If you are not near a Winter Sports area, you might get a really good motel rate for those months. Just Winterize the RV and move out until it gets warmer. It may not cost much more than the propane.

[spock123]

Check out YouTube, there is right many people the spend the winter in a camper. The oil patch workers in the Dakota's comes to mind

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Since you're on private property, if you have access to square bales of hay, you could lay those around the underside of the RV.

I'd be concerned that hay bales would invite rodents.

[Shoe1214]

We have a Forest River 274 Travel trailer and we're just trying to decide if we can stay in the Winter cold. Many thanks for the tips as we are new full timers