Winterization vs. radiant heat

danheit98125 · 10-19-2016, 01:17 PM

I live in Seattle, WA and my wife and I are planning on using our TT periodically throughout this winter (Nov - Mar). Although we do get some freezing weather & I don't want to winterize/de-winterize between usages. Am I making a mistake? Is anyone else doing this?
The dealer suggested that I use radiant heaters during cold periods in both the galley & bathroom (opening up the cabinets for direct heating exposure) & making sure I drain the water heater/tanks. Did I miss anything critical?
Since I am a newbie, what tips/tricks/advice can you offer? Advice on brand/size of heater? Trailer is stored in my driveway and is 4 seasoned.
Thanks!

**bikendan** · 10-19-2016, 01:21 PM

Just so you know, FR doesn't make any true 4 season trailers like Arctic Fox does.

timfromma · 10-19-2016, 01:22 PM

You may find that a few gallons of antifreeze is cheaper than the electric bill from running the heaters. Winterization really only takes 10 - 15 minutes. Small prices to pay to protect your camper IMHO.

commishh · 10-19-2016, 01:29 PM

Does anyone know of a list of true four season campers. I recently bought one that is NOT with exposed plumbing underneath, my stupidity. I had a Scamp prior and it is built in Minnesota and those people know how to build a camper. I am very interested in trading mine for one that is light weight and winter friendly.

mjones12 · 10-19-2016, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timfromma

You may find that a few gallons of antifreeze is cheaper than the electric bill from running the heaters. Winterization really only takes 10 - 15 minutes. Small prices to pay to protect your camper IMHO.

Agreed. I guess I do it 4 or 5 times each winter.

Major Oz · 10-20-2016, 04:12 PM

Never understood all the fuss about winter "camping".

Just winterize the rig and........take off.

Bottled water and antifreeze in the holding tank (sloshing ice helps keep it clean).

Enjoy

larryo · 10-20-2016, 05:07 PM

I don't believe there is a true 4 season rv.

**bikendan** · 10-20-2016, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryo

I don't believe there is a true 4 season rv.

Most of Northwood Manufacturing products are true 4 season.

larryo · 10-20-2016, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

Most of Northwood Manufacturing products are true 4 season.

The general rule for anything to be properly insulated for sub zero temperature is 10/40/60. That is r10 for the floor, r40 for the walls and r60 for the roof or ceiling. Northwoods has r18 in the ceiling. I couldn't find floor and wall specs. I guess it would work for cold weather but it certainly isn't up to sub zero codes. That's too cold to camp anyway.

Steveboe · 10-20-2016, 05:59 PM

I have camped with things winterized. Just carry jugs of water and skip showering. Drain tanks asap after use and put more antifreeze in traps. A sponge bath from a large pot heated on the stove isn't so bad. Toss the used water out the door if it's below 25 outside.
Don't run anything into tanks that will freeze before dumping though.
Have fun

floptop4 · 10-20-2016, 07:14 PM

While in the Navy at Great Lakes we camped every chance we got. I never winterized our TT. Just drained all tanks, blew out water lines and drains with air and left all valves open. Never had a problem. And believe me it got plenty cold for a long time. Not to mention a lot of snow and wind. We're now back in NC and I still put the TT up for the winter the same way.

PSU Turf · 10-20-2016, 10:44 PM

Northwood specs say R-7 in the floors. Somewhere in one of their brochures it says the Arctic Fox trailers can function to 11F without plumbing freeze up. When it is time to get rid of my Solaire I am getting an Arctic Fox (for many reasons besides insulation).

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

GOTTOYS · 10-21-2016, 09:51 AM

In order to keep the pipes from freezing you will need to run the furnace. It will supply heat to the underbelly where the plumbing is. Why not just winterize the trailer and stay in a motel? Much more comfortable when it's really cold out. These things might be advertised as 4 seasons but that's a marketing ploy. Usually nothing more than a bit more insulation, some tank heaters and the all important decal by the front entry door...

timfromma · 10-21-2016, 10:02 AM

If one must camp in the winter, use bottled water and do your business in the campground facilities.

youroo · 10-21-2016, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryo

I don't believe there is a true 4 season rv.

Yetti is "Trying" to sell "Do it Yourself RVs"! They sell them 3 ways,DIY,Done,or Custom by Dealer! They are Really just a Fish House like F/R also sells! But Surprize-Surprize- they cost a LOT more!

We went through the Yetti in Brandon,Mn. they are NOT what most people would want to Travel/Camp in!

Youroo!!

rockfordroo · 10-21-2016, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by floptop4

While in the Navy at Great Lakes we camped every chance we got. I never winterized our TT. Just drained all tanks, blew out water lines and drains with air and left all valves open. Never had a problem. And believe me it got plenty cold for a long time. Not to mention a lot of snow and wind. We're now back in NC and I still put the TT up for the winter the same way.

That IS winterization (except you're not putting AF in the traps?)

pmsherman · 10-21-2016, 07:11 PM

We use out 2011 Georgetown 327DS (single pane windows) year round, including fresh and holding tanks and have not had any freezing issues after the modifications I've made.

1. Install a 1kw Xantrex MSW inverter under the sink. It's close to the batteries and the wiring space behind the cabinets facilitated running AC wiring.
2. Wire the inverter to run the Dometic fridge, using the existing fridge AC line as shore power to the inverter.
3. Install and wire an AC outlet in the plumbing compartment.
4. Tape a 300W gutter heater strip to all of the pipes in the compartment. Make three wraps of heater strip around the water filter using black electrical tape to hold it in place. The gutter heating strip should have its own thermostat to turn it on and off.
4. Cut both low point drains inside the compartment and install shutoff valves.

When we're driving in the Winter, the 175A alternator provides enough power for the fridge (300W) and the heater strip (300W) so there's no load on the batteries. When we stop for the night, we always find a place with AC power to run the heating strip. We also use the furnace at night which provides some heat through the floor to the tanks and we run the arctic pack heating strips on the waste tanks and valves.

We've been out with overnight lows in the mid teens with the temperature in the plumbing compartment where the fresh water tank is located staying around 40F. In the Winter, we never use the city water feed to the RV. We run on internal water and refill the tank in the morning just before we leave. This avoids using a hydrant in the park and having it freeze overnight creating a broken feed line that shows up in the morning when the ice in the pipe melts. When this happened to another RV at a park I was using one night, I was surprised when the manager told me that the owner of the RV was responsible for the $1000 cost to repair the pipe. When I asked why it cost so much I was told that having a commercial plumber dig up the feed line when the ground was frozen was a large part of the cost.

Phil

RJ Anderson · 10-21-2016, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

Just so you know, FR doesn't make any true 4 season trailers like Arctic Fox does.

Cedar Creek by FR is better insulated than Arctic Fox.

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