Winterizing question

[evolrider]

I was thinking of adding some red food coloring to the anti freeze bottle so I can see it better when it comes out of the tap, thoughts? I used the brand from Walmart and it was difficult to see when it came out of the faucet, the red coloring was very faded. Or should I consider a different brand?

[klrobert]

Just my opinion here, but do not use the cheap Wal-Mart antifreeze. It is methanol based which will dry out your seals and the diaphragm in the pump. I use the propylene glycol. It will lubricate the seals and keep everything working better. The propylene glycol is used as a food additive in many products we consume, so it is deemed "safe". It is easy to see when it comes out of the tap.

[mwdilday]

I have never had this issue. I buy the red stuff and it works great. You should get a different product.

[evolrider]

Originally Posted by klrobert

Just my opinion here, but do not use the cheap Wal-Mart antifreeze. It is methanol based which will dry out your seals and the diaphragm in the pump. I use the propylene glycol. It will lubricate the seals and keep everything working better. The propylene glycol is used as a food additive in many products we consume, so it is deemed "safe". It is easy to see when it comes out of the tap.

The Sta-Bil brand from Walmart states it is propylene glycol, it's like $3 a bottle, everything else I can find is 10 times that price. Not sure if I should trust it or not based off the reviews.

[LegacyFB38]

Originally Posted by evolrider

The Sta-Bil brand from Walmart states it is propylene glycol, it's like $3 a bottle, everything else I can find is 10 times that price. Not sure if I should trust it or not based off the reviews.

Sta-Bil is a known brand, If it is about 30% propylene-glycol I'd use it.


$3 times 10? What RV antifreeze costs $30 a gallon?



UPDATE:

I just did a quick search on STA-BIL® RV & Marine Premium Antifreeze. It appears the stuff MAY not be simply good old propylene-glycol and water. I'd do further research on what this stuff is before I relied on it.

[IsleDog]

Originally Posted by klrobert

Just my opinion here, but do not use the cheap Wal-Mart antifreeze. It is methanol based which will dry out your seals and the diaphragm in the pump. I use the propylene glycol. It will lubricate the seals and keep everything working better. The propylene glycol is used as a food additive in many products we consume, so it is deemed "safe". It is easy to see when it comes out of the tap.

thanks for pointing this out! just looked at what is available locally and found one product (FVP brand) that is purple, rated at -50F, and is ethanol based. never would have thought to check the safety data sheet (SDS) if not for this post. the stuff I have used in the past is always the pink or red stuff, and is glycol based I just found out, thank goodness!

[IsleDog]

Originally Posted by LegacyFB38

Sta-Bil is a known brand, If it is about 30% propylene-glycol I'd use it.


$3 times 10? What RV antifreeze costs $30 a gallon?



UPDATE:

I just did a quick search on STA-BIL® RV & Marine Premium Antifreeze. It appears the stuff MAY not be simply good old propylene-glycol and water. I'd do further research on what this stuff is before I relied on it.

stay far, far away from this crap. the reviews are not great. it is, however a glycol mix as stated on the SDS, which took forever to find!
https://public.sitehawk.com/viewpdf....seCatalog=True

https://www.walmart.com/ip/STA-BIL-R...eeze/838540502

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by IsleDog

stay far, far away from this crap. the reviews are not great. it is, however a glycol mix as stated on the SDS, which took forever to find!
https://public.sitehawk.com/viewpdf....seCatalog=True

https://www.walmart.com/ip/STA-BIL-R...eeze/838540502

The SDS link doesn't work, at least not for me. Says "public.sitehawk.com redirected you too many times."

[IsleDog]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

The SDS link doesn't work, at least not for me. Says "public.sitehawk.com redirected you too many times."

try this one click "search SDS" the product code is 2200. it will give you a list of about 7 items. pick the marine/rv antifreeze, second from top of list for me.
https://www.goldeagle.com/sds-search-instructions/

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by IsleDog

try this one click "search SDS" the product code is 2200. it will give you a list of about 7 items. pick the marine/rv antifreeze, second from top of list for me.
https://www.goldeagle.com/sds-search-instructions/

That worked.

Wonder how many of us "wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as appropriate, to prevent skin contact"???

[kandl]

Originally Posted by klrobert

Just my opinion here, but do not use the cheap Wal-Mart antifreeze. It is methanol based which will dry out your seals and the diaphragm in the pump. I use the propylene glycol. It will lubricate the seals and keep everything working better. The propylene glycol is used as a food additive in many products we consume, so it is deemed "safe". It is easy to see when it comes out of the tap.

[Oakman]

I've been using the Walmart brand of RV anti-freeze since 2004 and have never had a problem.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by IsleDog

thanks for pointing this out! just looked at what is available locally and found one product (FVP brand) that is purple, rated at -50F, and is ethanol based. never would have thought to check the safety data sheet (SDS) if not for this post. the stuff I have used in the past is always the pink or red stuff, and is glycol based I just found out, thank goodness!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkBSjnETjPA

Make sure it is the RV antifreeze!
The FVP RV is still pink.
DO NOT USE THEIR CAR/TRUCK ANTIFREEZE!

[timfromma]

Blow out your lines with compressed air first. This way, you aren't dilluting your antifreeze with water left in the pipes. With no water left in the pipes, the first liquid you will see when winterizing is antifreeze.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by timfromma

Blow out your lines with compressed air first. This way, you aren't dilluting your antifreeze with water left in the pipes. With no water left in the pipes, the first liquid you will see when winterizing is antifreeze.

Just remember to never drain the water heater through the low point drains!

Always isolate the water heater and drain it outside so the crud at the bottom of the tank does not get sucked into the water lines.

Inspect the anode while you have it out for draining.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by Oakman

I've been using the Walmart brand of RV anti-freeze since 2004 and have never had a problem.

Me, too. Nothing has frozen yet.

[mjones12]

Just looked at a jug of Peak and the Walmart brand (Super Tech) and both list propylene glycol. Maybe WM sells another off brand, but Super Tech has WM logo on the label.

As for OP question, can't imagine food-grade coloring would harm anything unless it stained a sink, shower pan or something like that.

[LegacyFB38]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

...
Wonder how many of us "wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as appropriate, to prevent skin contact"???

It's a tight fit over my everyday bubble-wrap.

[Kaadk]

Back to original question at hand, the reason you're not seeing it very well is because the antifreeze is diluting with the water you have left in the lines. This dilution is thining out the antifreeze, making it harder to spot, as well as making not as effective. The solution, is as Tim mentioned here:

Originally Posted by timfromma

Blow out your lines with compressed air first. This way, you aren't dilluting your antifreeze with water left in the pipes. With no water left in the pipes, the first liquid you will see when winterizing is antifreeze.

To do this, you'll need to pick up a blow out plug. I have a brass one that fits my quick connects for my air compressor that looks like this:



But you can also get cheaper, simpler ones like this:



And as Herk mentioned, you also need to make sure your water heater has been bypassed:

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Just remember to never drain the water heater through the low point drains!

Always isolate the water heater and drain it outside so the crud at the bottom of the tank does not get sucked into the water lines.

Inspect the anode while you have it out for draining.

This was the approach I used when winterizing my Flagstaff:

1) Make sure water heater was shut off
2) Bypass water heater
3) Use blow out plug and air compressor to blow out the lines, open each tap, shower and run toilet like you would when running antifreeze until most of the water stops coming out and you're only getting air.
4) Disconnect blow out plug.
5) Put water filter in bypass (because I put a bypass on my water filter, not from factory)
6) Remove water filter housing and discard old filter, drain any excess water from housing
6b) I didn't do this, because of the bypass, but for most people: reinstall filter housing.
7) Connect hose to antifreeze inlet, stick other end in jug of antifreeze.
8) Put water pump in winterizing mode (i.e. close the valve for the fresh water tank, open the valve for the antifreeze inlet.)
9) Turn on pump, let it gain pressure. Open each tap (shower, toilet) and run until it's pink. (since it's not diluted, it should be visible.) Also do same for city water check value (remove screen, press little button in centre).
10) turn off pump, disconnect antifreeze hose.
11) Remove anode rod (or plug if that's how yours drains) and drain water heater.
12) Use air compressor that's already out anyways to blow some of the extra crude out of the water heater.