Wire routing from battery to solar ready sticker

[EricE]

First post here. We are in the process of purchasing a new Wildcat Maxx 262RGX fifth wheel. We are very excited. My wife is excited about the new and larger accommodations and I am excited about installing the 4x100Watt solar panels I have planned. I am strange that way.

The trailer is “solar ready” and shows a sticker on the inside where you cut into the wall for the charge controller. I understand that behind that wall will be wire ends from the roof port and another set going to the battery. I also want to install a battery monitor here. For my install that means I need to route an RJ45 (telephone wire) from there into the battery compartment.

So my question is, does anyone know if the wire routing is such that I can pull wires through where they have them routed? The additional wire for the shunt needs to go from the battery compartment (up front) to that spot behind the wall where the solar ready sticker is. Is it possible and/or easy?
I am loath to drill any holes in my new RV so if this can't be done then I might give up on the battery monitor and just go with the charge controller by itself.

[lugoismad]

I just want to point out that RJ45 is not telephone wire. An RJ45 connector has 8 pins, meaning you need to use at minimum Catagory-3 wire, but I would suggest using Cat 5.

An RJ-11 end would be for telephone and has 4 wires.

[EricE]

Originally Posted by lugoismad

I just want to point out that RJ45 is not telephone wire. An RJ45 connector has 8 pins, meaning you need to use at minimum Catagory-3 wire, but I would suggest using Cat 5.

An RJ-11 end would be for telephone and has 4 wires.

Yes, sorry, you are correct. RJ-11 is what I need to route from shunt at battery to charge controller area.

[GLBCamper]

I don't want to hi-jack your thread, but I have a related question. Do you know for sure that the wiring behind the GoPower sticker on the side of the cabinet is wire (cut) ends or continuous wires?

I have a Renogy Solar Suitcase with controller that I would like to plug into the existing MC4 connectors on the roof and run directly to the batteries. But if the wires are "broken" behind that sticker, then obviously it won't work.

[EricE]

I don't. I will find out when I cut the hole. At this point that is a couple of weeks off though.
I'll post back when I can tell you something.

[GLBCamper]

Thanks. If I get the chance I'll connect both ends (solar controller to MC4 and stub out wires to the battery) and if I get nothing we'll know there is a break in the wiring.

[Bluepill]

Check the size on the factory-installed "Solar" hookup. You may find it way too small for more than about 75 watts. This is per other FR model owners.

[hankpac]

Look up Brian Boone on Facebook. Encyclopedic knowledge of solar and install guru. "solar powered RV's"

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

Check the size on the factory-installed "Solar" hookup. You may find it way too small for more than about 75 watts. This is per other FR model owners.

Good to know. My solar "suitcase" is 100w. I was already concerned that it is an awfully long run from the MC4 connectors at the rear roof of the TT to the batteries. Longer than Renogy recommends. I may just stick with my 10 foot 10g cables. It would be nice to put it on the roof to keep it from "growing legs."