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Old 05-20-2016, 06:51 PM   #1
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Tongue storage - toolbox

After buying a used one last year only to find it wouldn't fit, then searching all winter for the perfect fit and price, I finally bit the bullet and bought a new one. Moved propane as far forward as popsible. Drove the camper to tractor supply who was nice enough to let me take it out and test it first. With so many curves and different measurements it was hard to be sure. Paid more than I wanted but am very happy.

Now to move or remove the light, need to pick up caulk/sealant first. Anyone ever mess with this light? Hope to only find a small hole behind it for the wire. Might move or connect something else in its place, maybe an led strip in the box.

Oh and due to the slant on the bottom, would it hurt the batteries is they are a bit unlevel?

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Old 05-24-2016, 07:17 AM   #2
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any comments on the:

1) removing/moving the front out side light before i find out the hard way? i bought black silicon last night, plan to remove the light later this evening so i can mount the new box.

2) will it hurt the batteries if they are not sitting level? if so i can turn sideways or level with something under them.
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:00 AM   #3
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bpa, I am not sure I am going to be any help, but thought I would at least give a response.






As far as the light goes, I would guess there will be a hole for the wire and probably a couple of screws to attach the light that you will have to fill. What do you plan to do with the wire? Just a thought here and not sure if it has any effect, but is there any chance the LED light in the pass-through and the outside light are connected to the same power source and what happens if they are? Otherwise I would guess if you seal the hole(s) and disconnect the wire you will be fine.


As far as the batteries, I would want them level for peace of mind if nothing else.


Good luck and please post the results!
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #4
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My thoughts on the batteries: The lead plates need to be covered by electrolyte (water) at all times. If they are tipped, some plates may be exposed. If you add more electrolyte to compensate the water could leak out due to expansion on hot days. I would definitely put something under them to make them level.
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:54 AM   #5
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cut apiece of 2x6 or 2x8 wood to put under the batteries to raise them up some to give more room under them to be level... I would also put some kind of insulating material over the top of the battery(s), even just a plastic lid cut to shape...
maybe drill a hole in the box and feed the light wires into the box?
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:04 AM   #6
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If you have flooded lead/acid batteries I would keep them level. It would also be a good idea to vent the box if its not already vented so you don't get any buildup of hydrogen gas in there.


With AGM batteries you can mount them in any position and no need to worry about off gassing or having other electrical wiring in the box.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:30 AM   #7
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Thanks guys. I will level the batteries, that should be easy. How much venting is needed? Just a few small holes drilled in the side?

I am debating putting the light in the box. Or utilize the wires for a colored led strip.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:43 AM   #8
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Having the light in the box would be a great help to you. You never know when you will need it while looking for something in there.

Love your work. it looks great.

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Old 05-24-2016, 10:18 AM   #9
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Unfortunately once the flip out bed is down I won't really be able to access the box, but the stuff going in there will be setup stuff like grill, chucks, wood blocks, electric cord, water hose......
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
How much venting is needed? Just a few small holes drilled in the side?
If your box is anything like mine, it does not have a real tight fit or a seal on the box lid to make it air/water tight. I used a hole drill on the side rear of the box the same size as a rubber grommet I found at the hardware store and made about a one inch diameter hole about even with the top of the battery to let the battery wires exit the box. I figured that was enough venting added to an already loose fitting lid. That is not scientific just my 2 cents worth... but so far it has served me for over 5,000 miles.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:25 AM   #11
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It has a basic seal but ya, not air tight. I should get some rubber grommets, dint think of that, guess the wires would get cut by the metal edge
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:38 AM   #12
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You should also drill some holes in the bottom maybe 3/4" - 1" diameter to facilitate air circulation.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:57 AM   #13
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You could always extend the light wiring to the box and re-mount the light in the box. You would still need to seal around the holes in the camper when the light is removed.
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:06 PM   #14
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Not going quite as planned. Gotta pick up a few parts. Not happy how big the hole is behind that light. Think I might try to find a led strip like on my awning and go across the box. Could move the light up but it's pointless there. Grill is tough to to get in there, I forsee a greasy mess. Think I'll buy a tote for it and use this to store other stuff like the messy patio mat.

Although as you can see the batteries fit nice. And I'm gonna cut a plywood shelf that will just clear them
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:24 PM   #15
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Anyone know where to buy the led lights already in casing/channel with a switch? I'm striking out
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Not happy how big the hole is behind that light. Think I might try to find a led strip like on my awning and go across the box. Think I'll buy a tote for it and use this to store other stuff like the messy patio mat.
I have a box like yours across the front.

As far as the hole in the trailer, you could build up some silicon to seal it. I would use a small piece of Gorilla Tape, cut just slightly larger than the hole and cover the hole, then cover with some silicone caulk again larger than the tape. The tape will keep the silicon from entering the hole and the silicon will cover the tape. If you are going to use the wires, then get a grommet and seal the hole with silicon.

There are a ton of LED lights at banggood dot com... Chinese warehouse that takes 2 to 3 weeks to get stuff from, but it always gets in my mailbox and the prices are cheap, cheap. Don't be put off by the Chinese characters on the packages. I bought a bunch of LED battery operated lights that turn on with motion. I put these in all of the cabinets and storage areas so when I open a cabinet the light turns on. I just got 3 lengths RGB LED lights just like the awning kind, $10 each delivered with Remote Control and power box (needs fed 12V) 5 meters long. Waterproof to IP66 spec. Pay with PayPal so transactions are secure. You can purchase tracking and insurance, but I have not paid for either since last fall and have never lost a package yet... course I'm not spending a ton of money either on any one order.

5M 5050 RGB Waterproof 300 LED Strip Light 12V DC - US$9.99

As far as the outdoor rug, I have attached with drill screws some D-ring loops to the two opposite sides of the tongue box. I lay the folded rug, actually we have two, on top of the box and use several bungee cords to strap them down on top of the outside of the box. No mess inside the box, and the rugs stay put for travel if you are careful strapping it down. I keep my power drill for the stabilizers, the wheel chocks and some 2x6 lumber for pads, plus a couple of small hand tools and a flashlight in the box. The box is the last to be closed before we go, and then the rugs get strapped on top. It is also the first to be opened when we stop to camp and everything is right there that I need to set the stabilizers and chock the wheels.

I have seen channel for these lights for sale on the net... just will have to find it again...
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:13 PM   #17
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I googled this am got lots of hits for protective channel

led strip light aluminum channel
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:50 AM   #18
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Wow thanks for all the info Rsdata! In your pics, that's what I was seeing on many sites, does it need to be in a channel or fine just the way it is? Won't I need the wires for it? Never messed with this stuff, learning as I go.

I have the same plan for the box. My only storage is the front pass through that only goes 75% across the camper, other 25% is blocked off for water pump, filter and wires, says don't use for storage but I do put a few safe things in there. But it's tough getting everything in this area. So the box will be like my set up box like you said. Once set up and I drop down the front flip out bed I will barely be able to get in there till is time to pack up.
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:11 AM   #19
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Quote:
does it need to be in a channel or fine just the way it is? Won't I need the wires for it? Never messed with this stuff, learning as I go.
In the pic you see three wires that goes to the LED control box which measures about 2" by 3" by 1.25" tall. The black wire at the top is the 12V supply line, first wire on left is the connection to the LED strip and the third wire is the Remote Control sensor wire which just hangs and is about 6 inches long.

I replaced my stock clear bright white LED awning strip light last two summers ago with a strip like this I bought for about $50 back then. The old LED lights just slid out and new slid into the stock channel near the top of the awning. The 12V supply line was there all I had to do was cut the end off an old 12V transformer that I had that fit the 12V supply input into the control box which the stock lights did not have and splice the wires and mount the control box at the start of the LED channel.

Since the LED strip lights are almost 16 feet and my awning was only about 11+ feet, I chose to not cut the strip lights down but instead used the sticky backing and press it onto the awning arm leading down from the top of the awning to the side of the trailer. I supplemented the sticky tape backing with clear silicon type caulk that is also a glue... I found at Home Depot. It is still stuck going into my second summer. So channel is not necessary, but the sticky backing on the LED strip is NOT going to hold without some help. You can cut the LED strip to length without harming the lights, just without some additional parts (a new power lead soldered on) the cutoff strip now becomes useless. See the address below for all of the connectors, and power supplies necessary to hook up these LED lights...

5050 rgb waterproof 300 led strip light connector - Buy Cheap 5050 rgb waterproof 300 led strip light connector - From Banggood

Have you gone thru your cabinets and storage areas and removed the false walls they put in? I did a better job of tying up loose wires then factory to remove hazards that the factory just covered up, and gained about 40% more space without the false walls. Went from very little space to just a little space, but worth the effort.

I removed the filter from the storage area and just tied input to the filter to the output of the filter with a piece of hose from hardware store. Gives a bit more space and I did not like the idea of a possible leaking fixture that I could not readily see. We never drink campground water anyway. Many here have gone to an external water filter attached to the white hose at the faucet.

Just a couple of ideas to explore...
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:25 AM   #20
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Thanks for the additional details. my GF is gonna kill me when this project is done and i have spent triple the money we planned lol
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