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08-01-2020, 04:08 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Midwest
Posts: 7
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Ground control 3.0
I have a 2021 XLR Nitro and only at my 3rd camp spot, the gravel pad is leaning right and back. I feel like I have tried everything to get it leveled but the right rear continues to go out of stroke, what are some tips and tricks to get this thing right? I put as many blocks as I could fit under the right rear, I feel like the front should be down all the way to maybe get that right rear correct but it didn’t work so I said it was really close and I manually put the middles down.
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08-01-2020, 06:45 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 954
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Let me ask the dumb questions to rule out possibilities.
Did you perform The zero calibration?
I assume when you “retract all” the error is cleared.
Does it look “out of stroke” even after adding all the blocks? Note-The rear jacks have 12.5” of overall lift capacity. If it does look like the jack extended fully you have to get more blocks under it BUT you said there is not enough room.
If that is the case, my next step would be to put blocks under the low-side wheels to raise the rear jacks making more room for blocks.
This seems counter intuitive but it Reduces the overall stroke needed to level side to side and uses that stroke to firm up front to back.
Keep us posted. I have never been unable to complete auto-level success.
__________________
2016 RAM 3500 DRW 4x4 LB LoneStar, w/RDS 33Gal Aux tank, Timbrens, Andersen Ultimate2, SwiftHitch SH04
2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/TST507 TPMS, Lippert GC3 Autolevel, Furrion Backup Cam, Progressive HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
2011 Starcraft 392BHUw/Andersen No-Sway
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08-01-2020, 08:30 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Midwest
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaps2018
Let me ask the dumb questions to rule out possibilities.
Did you perform The zero calibration?
I assume when you “retract all” the error is cleared.
Does it look “out of stroke” even after adding all the blocks? Note-The rear jacks have 12.5” of overall lift capacity. If it does look like the jack extended fully you have to get more blocks under it BUT you said there is not enough room.
If that is the case, my next step would be to put blocks under the low-side wheels to raise the rear jacks making more room for blocks.
This seems counter intuitive but it Reduces the overall stroke needed to level side to side and uses that stroke to firm up front to back.
Keep us posted. I have never been unable to complete auto-level success.
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Not sure about the zero calibration, but yes I hooked it back up to the truck 3 or 4 times and even moved it left to see if I could get just a bit more space. So after I hit retract all it cleared. That was my next idea, I was gonna put (2) 4x4 under the right side tires but I was out of blocks without them, kinda screwed, but lessons are being learned and I’m glad I had the right thought process, I will get something specific for the tires. Thank you.
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08-01-2020, 08:57 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Go to the Leveling and Stabilization master manual in this list and find your particular system. Find zero point calibration steps. https://support.lci1.com/master-manuals/
You MUST do a zero point calibration. This is what tells your system what level is for your particular RV.
I have used a Level Up 6point hydraulic system for 9 years in some very unlevel areas (we mainly boondocking the backwoods). Never have I had to block up any tires to achieve auto level. And never have we failed to achieve level. I do use several sets of Lynx Blocks to shorten stroke for cylinders on the low side. Many times this results in one sides tires being off the ground, which is not a problem. We have camped for a month with them this way. It bothers some folks, but we now think nothing of it.
Read the manual and experiment a little. After you get used to your system you will absolutely love it!
Enjoy your RV.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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08-01-2020, 09:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 825
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Assuming zero calibration has been completed, the first thing the system will try to do is level front to back. As it's doing this the front may drop making more room for additional blocks under the rear right. Based on your description, and if the rear right really is out of stroke, that should help. Good luck.
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08-01-2020, 09:54 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 954
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Just a note on using blocks under wheels w/GC3-The only time I needed to do that when there was a 6” difference in side to side level of the pavement.
__________________
2016 RAM 3500 DRW 4x4 LB LoneStar, w/RDS 33Gal Aux tank, Timbrens, Andersen Ultimate2, SwiftHitch SH04
2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/TST507 TPMS, Lippert GC3 Autolevel, Furrion Backup Cam, Progressive HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
2011 Starcraft 392BHUw/Andersen No-Sway
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08-05-2020, 07:01 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Midwest
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
Go to the Leveling and Stabilization master manual in this list and find your particular system. Find zero point calibration steps. https://support.lci1.com/master-manuals/
You MUST do a zero point calibration. This is what tells your system what level is for your particular RV.
I have used a Level Up 6point hydraulic system for 9 years in some very unlevel areas (we mainly boondocking the backwoods). Never have I had to block up any tires to achieve auto level. And never have we failed to achieve level. I do use several sets of Lynx Blocks to shorten stroke for cylinders on the low side. Many times this results in one sides tires being off the ground, which is not a problem. We have camped for a month with them this way. It bothers some folks, but we now think nothing of it.
Read the manual and experiment a little. After you get used to your system you will absolutely love it!
Enjoy your RV.
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Great info and thank you for the link, only issue I have been having is the fact that my OneControl is not pictured in any links or manuals that I have seen, I’m guessing it being a 2021 has something to do with that, pretty frustrating as everything I have read or tried has not worked to Zero Calibrate. I found one that was super close but didn’t have the same interface as mine. Also pretty sure as I was trying to manually use the jacks last weekend I was in lockout, every time I pressed a button to select a jack it would just flash and not let me move it, I read that could be due to lockout to protect the frame idk!
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08-05-2020, 08:13 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetglider31s
Great info and thank you for the link, only issue I have been having is the fact that my OneControl is not pictured in any links or manuals that I have seen, I’m guessing it being a 2021 has something to do with that, pretty frustrating as everything I have read or tried has not worked to Zero Calibrate. I found one that was super close but didn’t have the same interface as mine. Also pretty sure as I was trying to manually use the jacks last weekend I was in lockout, every time I pressed a button to select a jack it would just flash and not let me move it, I read that could be due to lockout to protect the frame idk!
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Well, that's a drag!
There are lots of videos and how to documents about the one control out there from several sources. Might be worth looking at some to see if it looks like yours.
If all else fails, call LCI tech support and ask them for a current manual. They can also step you through figuring this out.
Sorry you are having such difficulty. It shouldn't be this hard! Auto level is truly one of the best options
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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08-05-2020, 11:00 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Midwest
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
Well, that's a drag!
There are lots of videos and how to documents about the one control out there from several sources. Might be worth looking at some to see if it looks like yours.
If all else fails, call LCI tech support and ask them for a current manual. They can also step you through figuring this out.
Sorry you are having such difficulty. It shouldn't be this hard! Auto level is truly one of the best options
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I feel like I have seen every interface one can see lol it is kinda strange to have something installed that I have zero paperwork on. I got it back home Sunday to my normal parking spot which is pretty level and it auto leveled just as smooth as can be so at least I haven’t messed anything up so far lol. I do have a case ticket confirmed and waiting for a reply now, again thank you for the link it is much appreciated
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08-05-2020, 11:19 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Midwest
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetglider31s
I feel like I have seen every interface one can see lol it is kinda strange to have something installed that I have zero paperwork on. I got it back home Sunday to my normal parking spot which is pretty level and it auto leveled just as smooth as can be so at least I haven’t messed anything up so far lol. I do have a case ticket confirmed and waiting for a reply now, again thank you for the link it is much appreciated
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And I finally found my interface about 2 minutes again, seems more streamline, I will have to get my camper to some level ground and do the calibration now.
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09-07-2020, 03:17 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 6
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I went through your situation. My Onecontrol screen completely different than the ones shown in videos and such. There is Onecontrol version 2.0,2.5 and 3.0. on lipperts website search for info guide TI-333. Hard to search because it's ground control 3.0 and touch panel 3.0. ,once I found correct info zero point was a snap and brainless Ground control now works as it should.
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