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Old 01-05-2019, 10:05 AM   #1
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I wish I had known...

Ive been reading a lot on the forums to find out tips for our new 29HFS, but what are some specifics you remember about your new trailer? Set up, maintenance/mechanical items to QA before use, gee whiz stuff? Our last trailer was 12 years old, so I was hoping that with a new trailer, things would be better quality, more user friendly, etc, but with all the reading, Im concerned things are worse! Id really like to do a good job maintaining and preventing issues and make it last. Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:18 AM   #2
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I’ve been reading a lot on the forums to find out tips for our new 29HFS, but what are some specifics you remember about your new trailer? Set up, maintenance/mechanical items to QA before use, gee whiz stuff? Our last trailer was 12 years old, so I was hoping that with a new trailer, things would be better quality, more user friendly, etc, but with all the reading, I’m concerned things are “worse!” I’d really like to do a good job maintaining and preventing issues and make it last. Thanks in advance!
You are very correct. My 5er is 16 years old. I would never trade it for a new one. I would like to have a bigger one but if I do it will be at least 8-10 years old.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:32 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by iammoco View Post
I’ve been reading a lot on the forums to find out tips for our new 29HFS, but what are some specifics you remember about your new trailer? Set up, maintenance/mechanical items to QA before use, gee whiz stuff? Our last trailer was 12 years old, so I was hoping that with a new trailer, things would be better quality, more user friendly, etc, but with all the reading, I’m concerned things are “worse!” I’d really like to do a good job maintaining and preventing issues and make it last. Thanks in advance!
First thing I would recommend is to simply go around the interior and exterior and make sure all screws, nuts/bolts are tight/secure. Not over tight, but properly secured. If you don't have one, get a set of Robertson screw drivers, as most of the screws used are #2 Robertson square drive screws.
Check all water connections and make sure they are hand tight and not cross threaded. Hot/cold connections at faucets, drains from sinks, ect. Definately make sure the drain valves from the gray and black tanks are working properly...don't want to have full tanks and find a valve is sticking!!!
I would remove all the drawers and find out what is behind them as many components, like converters/inverters, water pumps are usually hidden behind a drawer or removable panel.
While drawers are out, you will probably find saw dust, wood chips, wire pieces, styrofoam pieces, ect. Workers generally don't clean these items up while assembling the rig.
Make sure the front/back roof running lights are sealed properly. One small unsealed light can leak like a hose, cause lots of water damage.
Get up on roof and make sure everything that should be sealed, IS sealed and caulked properly. A simple 1 inch gap in any of the caulking is a leak looking to happen.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:44 AM   #4
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Do not get discouraged until you have a reason. There are hundreds of new RVs sold every week and dozens of new FRF members every week. It is a well know fact that most people who have a good experience with a product do not make an effort to make their experience public. Going public is usually a request for help with an issue or a complaint. My suggestion is to learn the intricacies of your RV and enjoy it. If you do have an issue, try to address it in a positive manner and focus on the resolution rather than the finger pointing.

Most of all get out and enjoy your new RV.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:48 AM   #5
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X 2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ what he said !!!!!!!






I can say this the new trailers have more features but quality wise they are better today than the campers we owned in the 1980s !!!!!!
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:39 PM   #6
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This is a maintenance tip for any new rig, trailer or motorhome (or older ones too):

Wood screws in thin plywood walls or soft-wood cabinetry will fall out or become loose. Replacing or tightening the screws may be difficult due to the wood-side threads being compromised.

When you find loose wood-screws or are replacing missing wood-screws, if they won't tighten without stripping out the wood, just add a drop of Elmer's School Glue in the wood-hole. You need just enough to FILL the hole and no more.

Come back 24 hours later and install the screw. The glue will firm the wood so the wood-screw will "bite" and hold. Do not overtighten.

My experience is the screw will stay in place forever, or until you need to take it out. Using Elmer's School Glue is preferred over a strong construction-grade glue as it is softer when it cures. It is pliable enough to allow the screw to make new threads but not so hard that it makes an impenetrable holl-filler that screws won't penetrate.

I periodically survey my TT and my MH for wood-screws that are missing or loose. The above described method is applied during each maintenance survey as needed.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by McCormickJim View Post
This is a maintenance tip for any new rig, trailer or motorhome (or older ones too):



Wood screws in thin plywood walls or soft-wood cabinetry will fall out or become loose. Replacing or tightening the screws may be difficult due to the wood-side threads being compromised.



When you find loose wood-screws or are replacing missing wood-screws, if they won't tighten without stripping out the wood, just add a drop of Elmer's School Glue in the wood-hole. You need just enough to FILL the hole and no more.



Come back 24 hours later and install the screw. The glue will firm the wood so the wood-screw will "bite" and hold. Do not overtighten.



My experience is the screw will stay in place forever, or until you need to take it out. Using Elmer's School Glue is preferred over a strong construction-grade glue as it is softer when it cures. It is pliable enough to allow the screw to make new threads but not so hard that it makes an impenetrable holl-filler that screws won't penetrate.



I periodically survey my TT and my MH for wood-screws that are missing or loose. The above described method is applied during each maintenance survey as needed.


Great Tip , Thanks!
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:16 PM   #8
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B Mac

Another solution to loose screws that is immediate. Instead of filling the hole with glue, try breaking off a couple wood toothpicks in the hole. This makes the hole smaller and tighter on the screws.
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:51 PM   #9
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I use combination of A and B - toothpick and Elmers carpenter's glue. Many choices.
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Old 01-05-2019, 05:56 PM   #10
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I use combination of A and B - toothpick and Elmers carpenter's glue. Many choices.
This is the best solution.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:20 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by McCormickJim View Post
This is a maintenance tip for any new rig, trailer or motorhome (or older ones too):

Wood screws in thin plywood walls or soft-wood cabinetry will fall out or become loose. Replacing or tightening the screws may be difficult due to the wood-side threads being compromised.

When you find loose wood-screws or are replacing missing wood-screws, if they won't tighten without stripping out the wood, just add a drop of Elmer's School Glue in the wood-hole. You need just enough to FILL the hole and no more.

Come back 24 hours later and install the screw. The glue will firm the wood so the wood-screw will "bite" and hold. Do not overtighten.

My experience is the screw will stay in place forever, or until you need to take it out. Using Elmer's School Glue is preferred over a strong construction-grade glue as it is softer when it cures. It is pliable enough to allow the screw to make new threads but not so hard that it makes an impenetrable holl-filler that screws won't penetrate.

I periodically survey my TT and my MH for wood-screws that are missing or loose. The above described method is applied during each maintenance survey as needed.
during my several years of building RC model planes from balsa wood i used hobby shop grade ca thin set glue(has to be this glue, regular will not work)it will wick into the hole, use a drop or two, let set a minute or two, redrill hole, it makes the wood hole hard as a rock and much much stronger than every before
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:27 AM   #12
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This is the best solution.
Or Elmer's @ Old Fashion Kitchen Matches !!!
This was my Mothers fix for every thing !!!

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Old 01-06-2019, 11:07 AM   #13
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I owned a 2000 Montana for about 10 years. It had it's share of issues such as roof membrane delamination, and spring shackle and mount defects, and electrical issues. All were solved over time. I traded it for my current Crusader. After 3 years my experience is mostly positive. It has a number of features I love, such as automatic leveling and electric awning. I've had to do a number of things along the way such as trim re-glue, and fridge igniter adjustment, and had to pull the furnace to clean the flame sensor, but all of this goes with the territory. I think the idea that trailers are better, or worse, today just doesn't hold up. I contend it's the nature of the beast. I think more of the problem comes with the corporatization of the manufacturers creating a reduction in their ability, and desire, to stand behind their product. I operate under the assumption that I can't count on them to fix it, so I'll have to figure it out myself. Most issues have happened after the warranty period anyway. They are designed to wear out. You couldn't afford them if they didn't. Best thing to do is look for the best rig you can buy for the money that serves your needs and have at it. That's my 2 cents worth anyway.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:51 AM   #14
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I owned a 2000 Montana for about 10 years. It had it's share of issues such as roof membrane delamination, and spring shackle and mount defects, and electrical issues. All were solved over time. I traded it for my current Crusader. After 3 years my experience is mostly positive. It has a number of features I love, such as automatic leveling and electric awning. I've had to do a number of things along the way such as trim re-glue, and fridge igniter adjustment, and had to pull the furnace to clean the flame sensor, but all of this goes with the territory. I think the idea that trailers are better, or worse, today just doesn't hold up. I contend it's the nature of the beast. I think more of the problem comes with the corporatization of the manufacturers creating a reduction in their ability, and desire, to stand behind their product. I operate under the assumption that I can't count on them to fix it, so I'll have to figure it out myself. Most issues have happened after the warranty period anyway. They are designed to wear out. You couldn't afford them if they didn't. Best thing to do is look for the best rig you can buy for the money that serves your needs and have at it. That's my 2 cents worth anyway.
I agree. I have had a few workmanship issues that are frustrating and should not left the factory if they had a decent Quality System (then again, I'm in the aerospace business and that is my benchmark). On the other hand, it does occasionally hit me how much is packed into an RV. A lot. And beyond that, we've all hit those terrible potholes at 65 mph that go BANG and I cringe thinking the forces that just went through the RV, but at the next stop I check the rig and all is well. Our houses, and the cabinets and appliances in them, certainly wouldn't survive those jolts!

I still don't forgive XLR for a grossly undersized furnace. That was basic engineering and testing that obviously didn't happen, and was rectified on later models. No excuse for that. That's an entirely different issue that workmanship.

I am very handy and can fix most any problem that arises, as many of you on here are as well. If I didn't have those skills and relied on a dealer or the factory, yikes, I can only imagine the frustrations and downtime.
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:40 AM   #15
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I agree with you Dennis, it's tough to deal with things that are under designed. Only way is to replace whatever is having the problem. I doubt there is much engineering that goes into rigs after they get beyond the axle/frame/load capacity of the rig. After that it's just fitting standardized components into a package that will sell.
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Old 01-19-2019, 09:43 AM   #16
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Don't be discouraged OP! They still make good ones everyday.
I bought a 17' XLR Nitro 31FQSL last summer. Had been on the lot for a year. Was a little nervous due to all the reading I had done, but once I bought it, I didn't regret it.

Very happy I worked through my hesitation.
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