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Old 04-08-2012, 10:40 PM   #1
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Raise/Replace Drain Hoses

Anybody taken it upon themselves to raise the drain hoses? Was out in the desert and they get pretty close to getting hit quite a bit. The amount of length on them seems a bit excessive...

The main issue I see with doing this is that it's just glued and crimped into the bottom. Perhaps, take the crimp out and put in a new hose/valve with a hose clamp? Plus, I could then use something more flexible like rubber.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:34 AM   #2
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(or suppose to be)

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Anybody taken it upon themselves to raise the drain hoses?
sounds like an OK idea
we also visit the desert (and love it)

wouldn't go more than a few inches
everyTHING is engineered (or suppose to be)

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Old 04-09-2012, 03:28 PM   #3
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Are you referring to the grey and black water dump valves? If so, mine seem to be pretty low as well and could benefit from some re-engineering.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #4
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We were concerned about the same thing, because of places we travel. I did the unthinkable, I had the dealer flip the axles. It raised the trailer about four inches. Now the lowest point is the axles. My dump valves are about 18" off the ground.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:10 AM   #5
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We were concerned about the same thing, because of places we travel. I did the unthinkable, I had the dealer flip the axles. It raised the trailer about four inches. Now the lowest point is the axles. My dump valves are about 18" off the ground.
How does it tow like that? Everybody says it'll sway all over the place...

I don't know, we've been putting axle flip kits on trucks to lift or lower them for years now. Never had much of a problem until we started adding blocks between the springs and axles. But even then it was just spring wrap under acceleration... Shouldn't see much of that on trailer axles.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:04 AM   #6
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Yah, I was debating to flip as well. Right now I'm talking about the blue and red drain hoses hanging low. They're lower than the dump lines.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:04 PM   #7
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How does it tow like that? Everybody says it'll sway all over the place...

I don't know, we've been putting axle flip kits on trucks to lift or lower them for years now. Never had much of a problem until we started adding blocks between the springs and axles. But even then it was just spring wrap under acceleration... Shouldn't see much of that on trailer axles.
Didn't notice any sway. Had the dealer flip them as part of the purchase package.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:54 PM   #8
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I did the mod and added a shut off valve.

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Old 04-16-2012, 10:06 PM   #9
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I did the mod and added a shut off valve.
If you don't mind, what did you do to the red/blue lines closer to the front where they come from a T?

It's on my list to address when I get a chance (Trying before this weekend before the next trip).
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:00 PM   #10
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If you don't mind, what did you do to the red/blue lines closer to the front where they come from a T?

It's on my list to address when I get a chance (Trying before this weekend before the next trip).
These are your hot and cold water pipe low point drains.
If you remove the caps and open a faucet, you can drain all the water out of your camper's pipes; BUT NOT the fresh water tank.

The white valve he installed is to the fresh water tank drain.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:10 PM   #11
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The white valve he installed replaced this hose/cap where you can drain it. But, I'm wondering what he did to the front. All are pretty fragile and low (albeit the fresh water is more fragile as it's more fixed)
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:12 PM   #12
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I had the same thing on my last trailer. I cut them off as short as I could and re-installed the fittings/valves. I bought a special crimper and rings from Home Depot.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:14 PM   #13
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The white valve he installed replaced this hose/cap where you can drain it. But, I'm wondering what he did to the front. All are pretty fragile and low (albeit the fresh water is more fragile as it's more fixed)
If it were me I would get rid of that blue extension and replace it with a threaded ball valve.
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:50 PM   #14
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I would take all the hose off and put a street elbow in with the a valve on it.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:06 PM   #15
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If you don't mind, what did you do to the red/blue lines closer to the front where they come from a T?

It's on my list to address when I get a chance (Trying before this weekend before the next trip).

I will add 90degree elbows to them when I can get to them. They were not as low as the fresh water drain. They are on the mod list. Too many projects in front of them.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:36 AM   #16
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Ended up buying the crimper for the drains in the front, cut shorter and added a valve to make it easier. Now it doesn't hang down.



On the fresh water tank just found a small valve I could screw in with a coupler. Now, it's a little above the sewer lines.



But, still debating about flipping the axles.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:23 PM   #17
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Bought (2) pex pipe turn outs at Lowes for $2.00, 1/2" adapters and 1/2" PVC ball valves and pipe.

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Old 04-23-2012, 07:24 PM   #18
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Total bill including threaded elbow for fresh water tank was under $20
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:25 PM   #19
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stellar job !
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:27 PM   #20
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Thats looks great....
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