Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-03-2019, 06:47 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
Retrofit AC for garage?

Hi, we have either a 2013 or 2014 XLR, and we did not realize when we bought it that there was no AC in the back garage area. There is one vent but I believe that is for heat only. Does anyone know of a way to retrofit the garage area to have AC? I know there are portable AC units but you have to vent to the outside and we do not want to leave the window open to do this....safety, mosquitoes, more heat, etc.

Thanks in advance!
__________________

nlp23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 09:39 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlp23 View Post
Hi, we have either a 2013 or 2014 XLR, and we did not realize when we bought it that there was no AC in the back garage area. There is one vent but I believe that is for heat only. Does anyone know of a way to retrofit the garage area to have AC? I know there are portable AC units but you have to vent to the outside and we do not want to leave the window open to do this....safety, mosquitoes, more heat, etc.

Thanks in advance!
If you have a vent 14"x14" in the garage yes you can add a second ac . some units are pre-wired some are not. if not you will have to run 120v service to the unit which can be done -
__________________

MR.M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 09:46 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 4,605
You say you have a vent in the garage area ?? If it's on the ceiling...it's a A/C vent, if it's on the floor...it's a furnace vent.
TheWolfPaq82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 10:12 AM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
Yes it’s furnace. It is low.
nlp23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 10:21 AM   #5
Fulltime family RVer
 
ependydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 19,905
Like MR. M said - if you have a roof vent, you have a space that will fit an A/C. Sometimes they're wired for a third A/C with power up to it and maybe even a thermostat wire coming off of it to a control panel. My Spartan was that way. Very easy for the dealer to add a 3rd A/C. We got one with a heat strip so we have electric heat in the ceiling because the furnace "vents" were a joke in mine.

If you don't have a ceiling vent, installing an A/C starts with cutting a hole. You might contact XLR to see if they can give you a roof schematic of that area. It'll tell you how far the joists are spaced and whatnot. If they don't offer a schematic, you'll need to pull ceiling panels down and start exploring on your own. Just pushing up on my ceiling, I can make a pretty good guess where the framing is.

You're easiest is likely to just run electric down the wall and then give the A/C its own 20amp cord that you plug in separately at the pedestal. Or you can run the line down the wall, into the under belly and back up to where the breaker panel is. You'll need to add a breaker (likely not room), take over an existing one, or add a sub-panel.

OR, add a portable. Your options are to A) drill a hole; the first hole is the hardest. Or B) reuse the breather vents that already exist in the garage. I saw a pretty neat homemade adapter for the furnace vent to the breather port - on Facebook on the "Toy Hauler Fans" group. If you want, I can go try to find those pictures.

Having the third A/C back there is amazing. On 50amp service, I've been able to run all 3 and *usually* still have enough juice leftover to run anything in the house want (microwave, fridge on A/C, water heater, washer/dryer, InstantPots). It's been a while, but we have tripped a 50amp breaker a time or two.
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 DRW/crew cab/long bed/4x4/4.10 gears pulling a 2017 Spartan 1245 by Prime Time
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | My family and I have fulltimed since June 2015
ependydad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 10:45 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Thurman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Albany, GA.
Posts: 1,229
Post #4 states that you have a vent on the floor which would be for heat. IF you do not have a 14" x 14" ceiling vent then yes you would have to cut a hole in the ceiling/roof to add an A/C unit. I added a 2nd. A/C unit to my TT using the existing vent over the front bed. I had previously changed out the original Dometic A/C unit when it quit cooling and found that the factory had add two boards between the roof rafters making a 14" x 14" square opening for the A/C unit to sit on so I did the same at the area where I removed the ceiling vent. I ran the wiring for the new A/C unit in plastic wire way along the ceiling towards the front of the TT and into the overhead bedroom cabinet. From there I went to the tiny closet on one side of the bed then down into the front storage space. I added a 6x6 electrical box inside the storage area so I could add a new 20 amp re-setable circuit breaker just for this new A/C. I added a male electrical plug, a "Marinco" brand with cover, on the outside of the TT. I use a dedicated 10 ga. HD extension cord and plug into the 120vAC receptacle on the power pedestal at CG's for the A/C power. This had been a tremendous help within my TT and I have had no problems with this set up.
__________________
2015 FR Freedom Express 310BHDS pushing a 2014 GMC Sierra CC
Thurman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 01:00 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,466
1/2 breaker

Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
You're easiest is likely to just run electric down the wall and then give the A/C its own 20amp cord that you plug in separately at the pedestal. Or you can run the line down the wall, into the under belly and back up to where the breaker panel is. You'll need to add a breaker (likely not room), take over an existing one, or add a sub-panel.
You can replace a current breaker with a "double breaker", an assembly of two breakers in a package the size of one. This is NOT a situation where the two breakers are tied together. They are independent. Here's an example.

Larry
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 03:21 PM   #8
Fulltime family RVer
 
ependydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 19,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
You can replace a current breaker with a "double breaker", an assembly of two breakers in a package the size of one. This is NOT a situation where the two breakers are tied together. They are independent. Here's an example.

Larry
Pretty neat. I might use that for some plans I have on my own rig!
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 DRW/crew cab/long bed/4x4/4.10 gears pulling a 2017 Spartan 1245 by Prime Time
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | My family and I have fulltimed since June 2015
ependydad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 04:15 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
Thank you everyone! That's a lot of info and ideas. I did some research and we are only 30 amp, with no vent in the roof. So I like the idea of doing the portable and using the breather vent that is there since we only put non motorized toys back there in the first place.

So if we do that and I understand correctly, we could run an extension cord out for the portable AC and plug it into either the 30 or the 50 amp spot and then plug the rest of our RV into the other one? Basically we would always need an RV spot with two power receptacles? Not glamorous but anyone see a reason this would not work?
nlp23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2019, 09:43 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlp23 View Post
Thank you everyone! That's a lot of info and ideas. I did some research and we are only 30 amp, with no vent in the roof. So I like the idea of doing the portable and using the breather vent that is there since we only put non motorized toys back there in the first place.

So if we do that and I understand correctly, we could run an extension cord out for the portable AC and plug it into either the 30 or the 50 amp spot and then plug the rest of our RV into the other one? Basically we would always need an RV spot with two power receptacles? Not glamorous but anyone see a reason this would not work?
Most but not all campground pedestals have a 20 amp plug in besides the 30 or 50 . so yes runing an extension cord to power the portable ac will work . I installed a 20 amp in my garage and run a extension for my portable ac . it was about 500 cheaper then installing a roof unit
MR.M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2019, 12:57 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
This does not answer the question you asked, but you may find it helpful.

For my purposes, simply opening the door between the garage and the living area adequately cools the garage. If it did not, I would simply direct a small fan to effect circulation through the door.
__________________

Slow Moon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:56 PM.


×